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Discussion Starter #141
Drilled and riveted DS cockpit. I've read that I should do this before running fuel and brake lines to avoid accidentally drilling into one. Also received the correct throttle cable from FF and installed it. I think I'll use this instead of a mechanical linkage for now. My mind could change though.
 

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I'm assuming you're installing the bolt on the 3/4" crossmember in the pedal box, so that the top of the gas pedal lever hits the bolt, correct?
NO the bolt should contact the pedal, not the arm. You don't want use the arm to stop the amount of force you can apply with your leg. Reread Jeff's and John's comments.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
I'm assuming you're installing the bolt on the 3/4" crossmember in the pedal box, so that the top of the gas pedal lever hits the bolt, correct?
NO the bolt should contact the pedal, not the arm. You don't want use the arm to stop the amount of force you can apply with your leg. Reread Jeff's and John's comments.
Roger that. I'll likely fashion a carriage bolt stop under the gas pedal. I might get the RT throttle pedal as this would eliminate any issues with the cross member and also allow me to have more flexibility on location. The new clutch quadrant assembly has a pretty stout pedal stop incorporated into the pedal box. Would anyone suggest putting an additional stop in the front footbox wall?
 

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Discussion Starter #144
Mocking up cockpit panels. My rear panel doesn't seem to want to touch the cross bar. I'll need to play around to see what's interfering
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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THe RT pedal is a really great design. What I like most is that where it attaches to the frame is relatively easily adjusted. When you get closer to driving it is really nice to be able to get the gas pedal in exactly the most comfortable position.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Ok. Here are some pics of my passenger side cockpit. You can see there's a bit of a distance between the rear wall and the 3/4"tube. Can anyone spot what's wrong? I can get the wall to flex and touch the bar but wasn't sure if this was normal. It also tends to bow out the mid portion of the wall if I do so
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Cockpit aluminum drilled. Starting on hard brake lines in front. She's not the prettiest girl at the dance, but she'll do. Feel free to critique.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Decided to rework brake lines so they wouldn't be crossed up coming out of the master cylinders. Happier with the bends as well.
 

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Couple of things, chewy. It looks like the brake line contacts the sheet metal as it turns down from that frame rail..... could be camera angle? But if this is the case, the end result will be thousands of Engine rev vibrations causing the two metals to wear on each other, and one of them will give. You don’t want that one to be the brake line.

Second, it may not count for much, but the manual says the right (PS) Master Cylinder is for the front brakes, and it appears that you have DS cylinder connected to the Fronts, if I’m seeing correctly. I don’t know if this is super important, but may have to do with orientation in relation to the balance bar and how the front-rear relate to one another in pedal-to-Cylinder force transfer.


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Discussion Starter #152
Couple of things, chewy. It looks like the brake line contacts the sheet metal as it turns down from that frame rail..... could be camera angle? But if this is the case, the end result will be thousands of Engine rev vibrations causing the two metals to wear on each other, and one of them will give. You don’t want that one to be the brake line.

Second, it may not count for much, but the manual says the right (PS) Master Cylinder is for the front brakes, and it appears that you have DS cylinder connected to the Fronts, if I’m seeing correctly. I don’t know if this is super important, but may have to do with orientation in relation to the balance bar and how the front-rear relate to one another in pedal-to-Cylinder force transfer.


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There's a bit of a gap between the line and the F panel, but I might rivet a clip on the panel to ensure the two don't rub. As for the master cylinders, since the current kit has the front and rear cylinders exactly the same, I'll just adjust the balance bar opposite of what's shown in the manual. This way I don't have to cross my lines coming out of the pedal box. I'm planning on running my rear lines down the inside of my footbox. Out the floor, then along the 4"tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
I hate to brag, but I finished this build in just one day.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Need some help identifying parts. I'm assuming the"C" shaped part is the rear caliper axle mount bracket and the hourglass shaped peice is the rear caliper to mount bracket, correct? Buying a Moser 8.8" from Mike Forte and he's going to weld the banana bracket on as well as install the caliper brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Front hard brake lines installed. Ordering rear end from forte which will finally allow me to get started on the back of the car
 

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Awesome! Almost time for me to start hard lines . Cant wait!

I bought the 179 flare tool from Eastwood it should make life a little easier.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #157
Awesome! Almost time for me to start hard lines . Cant wait!

I bought the 179 flare tool from Eastwood it should make life a little easier.

Jason
I thought about doing my own flares, but think the supplied lines work just fine. I did chew one up practicing bends, but overall am pleased with how the bends turned out. I ended up using larger sockets (hub nut socket) clamped to my bench vise to bend around more than the actual line bender that I had. Much easier to get smooth, symmetric circular bends
 

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Awesome! Almost time for me to start hard lines . Cant wait!

I bought the 179 flare tool from Eastwood it should make life a little easier.

Jason
I thought about doing my own flares, but think the supplied lines work just fine. I did chew one up practicing bends, but overall am pleased with how the bends turned out. I ended up using larger sockets (hub nut socket) clamped to my bench vise to bend around more than the actual line bender that I had. Much easier to get smooth, symmetric circular bends
The lines supplied are flared? I did not know. I peeked in the box saw the lines and moved on. I thought they were just blank. The school said we need to flare all those. I will go take a closer look.

I did buy a bending tool too. I will look at mine.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #159
yes. the brake and fuel lines are all pre-flared.
the main benefit of doing your own is that you can cut your lines to exactly the right length and not worry about bending them in circles to use up the slack. makes for a much cleaner look (see edwardb's anniversary build thread)
the provided lines come in pre cut lenghts, usually a bit longer than what you need, thus requiring creative paths/routes to eliminate the excess length.
don't forget to use the thinner lines for brakes (3/16") and the thicker ones for fuel. also don't make the mistake of bending your lines before sliding the nut towards the flare. it's a b*tch trying to get the nut on the other side of the bend once it's bent, even if you straighten out the line again.
 

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yes. the brake and fuel lines are all pre-flared.
the main benefit of doing your own is that you can cut your lines to exactly the right length and not worry about bending them in circles to use up the slack. makes for a much cleaner look (see edwardb's anniversary build thread)
the provided lines come in pre cut lenghts, usually a bit longer than what you need, thus requiring creative paths/routes to eliminate the excess length.
don't forget to use the thinner lines for brakes (3/16") and the thicker ones for fuel. also don't make the mistake of bending your lines before sliding the nut towards the flare. it's a b*tch trying to get the nut on the other side of the bend once it's bent, even if you straighten out the line again.
Awesome well I guess I have a expensive flare tool for no reason. Lol

I will use all your advise. Maybe I might get to them this week. But I'm taking my time trying not to make too many mistakes.

Jason
 
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