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Discussion Starter #81
First post in a while. Been working on the pedal box. I couldn't find the bolt that is supposed to attach the clutch quadrant assembly to the pedal. Dan from FFR confirmed that it wasn't included in the pedal box hardware and is sending one out. In the meantime, I'm priming and painting the pedal box brackets as well as my front calipers. Rear calipers are still backordered. Also primed the engine side of the passenger foot box panels and drilled and cleco'd the PS cockpit floor. Will work on installing the pedal box and master cylinders once brackets are dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Anyone else tried VHT caliper paint or clear coat? Just curious about results. I'm guessing the curing process is important for best results.
 

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Anyone else tried VHT caliper paint or clear coat? Just curious about results. I'm guessing the curing process is important for best results.
I used it on my first Mk3 build. Holds up well to normal use. Doesn't hold up to brake fluid. Like most other paints, dissolves almost instantly when it hits. Be very careful when you're bleeding and you shouldn't have a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Has anyone built a MK4 with the updated clutch quadrant assembly with the wilwood pedals? I tried installing my pedal box today fully expecting to get interference with the 3/4" frame only to find that the clutch quadrant assembly hits the pedal box mount before the clutch pedal touches the frame. There's about an inch and a half gap between the backside of the clutch pedal and the front panel of the DS foot box wall. Is this the new norm? I was reading build blogs today trying to figure out how I was going to deal with this interference and it doesn't seem to be an issue.
First pic shows the clutch assembly hitting the mount with clutch pushed all the way in.
Second pic is trying to show the clearance between the pedal and frame.
Third pic showing the distance between the pedal fully pushed and the foot box wall.

Also, I learned tonight that the 90 degree brass connectors that come off the master cylinders probably shouldn't fully seat down. The connectors warp and break before you get a little more than half the threads in. Guess I'm going to the auto store for more parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Also installed calipers tonight. Rounded the first bolt while was trying to torque it down. Quickly discovered that they are metric (12mm) and not standard (1/2 in). Luckily FF accidentally sent me double the number of bolts so I had extra. Going to replace stock bleeder bolts with speed blenders.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Progress tonight. Installed master cylinders. I was looking at the balance bar instructions. Will the variance in travel of each piston be seen only once the system is closed and filled with fluid? Right now with the system open, the balance bar doesn't seem to change position regardless of the amount of pedal pressure applied. I started installing PS footbox panels too, taking time to make some cardboard templates for insulation later.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Progress tonight. Installed master cylinders. I was looking at the balance bar instructions. Will the variance in travel of each piston be seen only once the system is closed and filled with fluid? Right now with the system open, the balance bar doesn't seem to change position regardless of the amount of pedal pressure applied. I started installing PS footbox panels too, taking time to make some cardboard templates for insulation later.
Yes exactly correct. Set the balance bar so there is the same amount sticking out of both sides. Set the pushrod lengths so the balance bar is at 90 deg to the push rods when the pedal is at rest. And so there is a tiny bit of free play in both push rods pedal at rest. this will be close enough to be able to drive it until the pads bed in and then you can work on front to rear balance. BTW leave the top and outside foot box panels off until the very last time the body goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Progress tonight. Installed master cylinders. I was looking at the balance bar instructions. Will the variance in travel of each piston be seen only once the system is closed and filled with fluid? Right now with the system open, the balance bar doesn't seem to change position regardless of the amount of pedal pressure applied. I started installing PS footbox panels too, taking time to make some cardboard templates for insulation later.
Yes exactly correct. Set the balance bar so there is the same amount sticking out of both sides. Set the pushrod lengths so the balance bar is at 90 deg to the push rods when the pedal is at rest. And so there is a tiny bit of free play in both push rods pedal at rest. this will be close enough to be able to drive it until the pads bed in and then you can work on front to rear balance. BTW leave the top and outside foot box panels off until the very last time the body goes on.
Thanks. Do you recommend having separate fluid reservoirs for each piston? I'm seeing lots of CNC triple reservoir set ups but am not running hydraulic clutch, so maybe a double reservoir set up.
 

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I'm using the CNC triple reservoir setup. If you decide to go with the CNC double check carshopincdotcom they have very good prices, also good to buy their pressure bleeder cap it's very helpful in bleeding your brakes. Per CNC do not use more than 5 psi for bleeding. Many use a bicycle pump.
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #94
I'm using the CNC triple reservoir setup. If you decide to go with the CNC double check carshopincdotcom they have very good prices, also good to buy their pressure bleeder cap it's very helpful in bleeding your brakes. Per CNC do not use more than 5 psi for bleeding. Many use a bicycle pump.
JR
Thanks for the advice. I'll check out the site
 

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Although the FFR engineers say the single reservoir and Y hose is adequate, I still prefer two reservoirs.
 

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I'm with Craig. Definitely get a second reservoir. CNC's part number is 1482.


John
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I'm with Craig. Definitely get a second reservoir. CNC's part number is 1482.


John
Although the FFR engineers say the single reservoir and Y hose is adequate, I still prefer two reservoirs.
anyone have a situation or close call where a single reservoir led to loss of both front and rear brakes?
 

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anyone have a situation or close call where a single reservoir led to loss of both front and rear brakes?
The single reservoir plus volume of the hoses allows for two or three? maybe more? pedal applications in the event of a total leak on one end. That said I tend to like the extra measure of having dual, separate reservoirs. I know there have been at least two occasions where I've nursed a daily driver home on one end after having a line blow out (thanks to General Motors use of steel lines with a 4-5 year lifespan in their early 2000s pickups).

Jeff
 

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I am with the rest of the folks on here on the addtional reservoir. I am running the CNC triple because I have a hydraulic clutch. The dual CNC would work great.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
First post in some time. I was in Cancun last week enjoying a kids free vacation. Back to the cold and back to the grind. I did receive my RT drop trunk kit while I was gone and assembled it today. I had to remark the lines where the frame hit the aluminum as it was a bit off. I need to cut the original trunk panel next. I don't have a rear end yet. Any reason I couldn't do the trunk panels and fuel tank first?
 

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