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Discussion Starter · #721 ·
First oil leak.
Pulled out yesterday and noticed a small wet spot, maybe a tablespoon at most. No leaks for the first 400mi. Recently swapped out the oil pressure sender and assumed it was related. This area seems dry. Both valve covers and rear intake seem dry. PCV lines seem dry. I'll look under the car when I do my first 500mi oil change. Must be a slow leak. No oil on the white cardboard i put under the car yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #722 ·
So for the past 100 miles, the oil leak hasn't reappeared. I have a piece of white cardboard under the car and no spots. I guess that little spill was from me swapping out my oil pressure sender.
Drove the car to work today. Chilly 50* morning. Noticed that both seat heaters are not working. Since both are not working, I'm assuming it's either the power or the ground going to both heaters. I can't recall what I used to power the seat heaters, the radio or the wiper power wire. I'm guessing it's a blown fuse, but the heaters have worked fine in the past. Wouldn't the fuse have blown much earlier if the seat heaters were drawing too much current/amperage? I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me, but what's the fuse on those circuits?
 

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The Gauges/Radio circuit is 10A, as is the Wiper circuit. Despite Cobra Heat stating their current draw approaches 10A on the high setting, I've read that 10A is enough to power both seat heaters (though I suspect you'd blow a fuse if you flipped the on switches simultaneously). It's rare that I have a passenger when it's cold enough to want the seat heater, so I can't say that I've got any first-hand experience driving both seat heaters with a single 10A circuit.

Also, when you're checking fuses, don't forget each seat heater has an in-line fuse (if you didn't remove it).


John
 

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Discussion Starter · #724 ·
The Gauges/Radio circuit is 10A, as is the Wiper circuit. Despite Cobra Heat stating their current draw approaches 10A on the high setting, I've read that 10A is enough to power both seat heaters (though I suspect you'd blow a fuse if you flipped the on switches simultaneously). It's rare that I have a passenger when it's cold enough to want the seat heater, so I can't say that I've got any first-hand experience driving both seat heaters with a single 10A circuit.

Also, when you're checking fuses, don't forget each seat heater has an in-line fuse (if you didn't remove it).


John
thanks
I've tested both seat heaters on before and they both work, even at the high settings, without blowing a fuse.
I'm guessing it's the main fuse at the fuse panel, that would take out both seats at the same time, as opposed to both inline fuses.
The grounds are wired through my kill switch, which controls the ground to my inertia switch/fuel pump relay, so I'm guess that's fine since the car still drives.
if it is the fuse at the fuse panel, should I swap it out for a 20A fuse?
 

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If you swap it out to a 20A you (more than likely) need to run a larger power feeder wire from the 20A fuse to your heater switches. After the switches you should have inline 10A fuses, one for each heater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #726 ·
good idea redstang. don't want to melt the power source with too much current. if it turns out to be the fuse, any thoughts why it would blow now and not before? I've had both seat heaters on at the same time and would think that if it's pulling too much current, the fuse would have blown in the past.
 

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It's possible a wire got pinched and is shorting to ground now. With the heater switches off, put a new fuse in. If the fuse blows immediately then the problem is between the fuse and heater switches. I'd then turn one heater on at a time and see if the fuse blows. If it blows nearly immediately then it's a dead short somewhere. If it's the heaters drawing too much current the fuse may take a couple seconds before it blows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #728 ·
update: blown 10a fuse. replaced fuse and both seat heaters are working again on both low and high. Also read the cobraheat instructions again and it calls for a 10a circuit. I'm guessing it was a bad fuse. and I can verify that my seat heaters are wired to my wiper circuit and my USB charger to the radio circuit, both 10a circuits.
 

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I would plan for the failure to happen again. The heaters may be pulling hypothetically 9.5A or even closer to 10A. That fuse is going to get warm since it's operating continuously at it's max rating. Something as simple as another large load turning on could cause the voltage to dip for a short period. This will cause the current the heaters draw to increase, this possibly putting it over the 10A threshold.
Unless you have an ammeter you can use to see what they're actually pulling and verify it's not close to 10A.
Do you know what the heater resistance is?
 

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I would plan for the failure to happen again. The heaters may be pulling hypothetically 9.5A or even closer to 10A. That fuse is going to get warm since it's operating continuously at it's max rating. Something as simple as another large load turning on could cause the voltage to dip for a short period. This will cause the current the heaters draw to increase, this possibly putting it over the 10A threshold.
Unless you have an ammeter you can use to see what they're actually pulling and verify it's not close to 10A.
Do you know what the heater resistance is?
Redstang is on the right track except that the current will increase as the voltage increases in a DC circuit (ohms law). As an example, if your heater draws 10amps at 12 volts (engine off) then it will draw 11.5amps with the alternator running at 13.8volts.
Chewy is right too, automotive fuses are basic and are generally cheap and nasty. Due to poor tolerances they can blow at lower than their marked value.
Probably worth seeing how the new fuse holds up. If it blows again it's probably time to get an ammeter to see what the actual current is.

Cheers, Nigel
 

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Discussion Starter · #732 ·
Is the RF harness composed of 16g wire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #733 · (Edited)
troubleshooting never ends...
I was going to drive the cobra to work today. I get all situated, turn on the headlights, turn the key.
weak crank -> no crank...lights dim and flicker with crank. Voltage reads between 10-11v.

Not sure what happened since I last drove it on Monday. I did replace my wiper fuse to get my seat heaters working again. Heaters will only run with key in ACC or run position and I did check them with the key in the ACC position but only briefly. Both heaters were turned off and key was in off position. When last driving, I didn't notice the voltage gauge going down.
Can you tell if the alternator goes bad by looking at the voltage gauge? I would expect to see the voltage slowly dropping while driving, but not sure.
I'm guessing it's a bad battery and will take it to the battery store to test it since it's most likely still under warranty. Currently on a charger now and I'll test it tonight.

edit: temp around here also dropped into the high 40s last night. don't think that would have made a difference, but thought i'd add that bit of info. not sure off hand what my CCA is on my battery but didn't think it was that low. and it's a regular lead acid battery, not one of the optima gel ones.
 

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Your volt gauge should show about 12v when the engine isn’t running and about 14v running.

batteries can fail slowly or fail suddenly. One time I left a car sitting for two years and it started righ up, but the next day the battery was completely dead. Getting the battery tested is the easiest thing to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #735 ·
Your volt gauge should show about 12v when the engine isn’t running and about 14v running.

batteries can fail slowly or fail suddenly. One time I left a car sitting for two years and it started righ up, but the next day the battery was completely dead. Getting the battery tested is the easiest thing to start with.
yeah, when I last drove it, the voltage was just under 14v. this morning, 10-11v. I'm charging it now to see if it'll crank over and I'll let it sit and try again later. It's easy enough to pull the battery and take it to the store for testing, but I didn't have time this morning on my way in to work.
 

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yeah, when I last drove it, the voltage was just under 14v. this morning, 10-11v. I'm charging it now to see if it'll crank over and I'll let it sit and try again later. It's easy enough to pull the battery and take it to the store for testing, but I didn't have time this morning on my way in to work.
I keep one of these in every car and one in the boat. They're extremely strong and lithium so they'll hold a charge when unused forever. Starts my diesel with no effort and a $15 coupon on amazon right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #737 ·
I keep one of these in every car and one in the boat. They're extremely strong and lithium so they'll hold a charge when unused forever. Starts my diesel with no effort and a $15 coupon on amazon right now.
thanks for the great idea. I'm trying to figure out why the battery is dead in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #738 ·
left battery charger on during the day. Came home and it reads just over 12v when key switched to ACC. starts up just fine currently. I started playing around w/ stuff like turning the lights and seat heaters on at the same time. I see a slight dip in the voltage (car is not running) just under 12v that then comes back up just over 12v after I turn headlights and seat heaters off again. car starts fine after doing all this.

bottom line is I'm not quite sure why my battery was dead this morning (10v). maybe I had something on leading to a parasitic draw, but not sure what that could be. I'll start it up in the next few days to see. Perhaps it didn't like the cooler temps last night into the 40s, but again I didn't think the CCA on this battery was that bad.
 
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