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Discussion Starter #621
I ended up cutting the trunk apart, re-contouring it and glassing it back together


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hope I can get mine to fit easier than yours.
 

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I can tell you that none of the painter here would cut up a trunk. Mine looked like that, maybe worse, and it fit after trimming.
 

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Mine is a mk3, the new bodies are much better.
It was not unusual in 2007 to have to recontour trunk lids.


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Rich’s car is a Mk3, as is my own and at least a half dozen others that I’ve done and none needed to be recontoured.

Eugene, if you trim the lower edge of the lid the whole thing will drop down to more closely match the body. Once that is done you’ll use the inner and outer nuts/spacers on the threaded rod to move the lower balance in or out as necessary to meet the lower edge of the lid.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #625
Rich’s car is a Mk3, as is my own and at least a half dozen others that I’ve done and none needed to be recontoured.

Eugene, if you trim the lower edge of the lid the whole thing will drop down to more closely match the body. Once that is done you’ll use the inner and outer nuts/spacers on the threaded rod to move the lower balance in or out as necessary to meet the lower edge of the lid.

Jeff
gotcha. i'll be very conservative w/ the trim as to avoid making more work for you down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #626
DS door latch is too far from door, even with the post pushed all the way towards the outside. Suggests the body should move in a bit. Anyone use spacers/ washers/ shims here? PS fits great.
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I had to put washers on the body side. J. Kleiner told me to do this and the doors latches worked.

Is this what your talking about. I guess there is ways to dress it up. I was surprised
 

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Discussion Starter #629
I'm talking about between the latch and the door. There's a gap there
 

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Discussion Starter #630
Hood hinges and headlights installed. Directions for the headlights are a bit difficult to interpret. Pictures in the manual are easier to follow than the actual text. I'll let my body guy make final adjustments after gapped.
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Factory Five includes two laser cut spacers for use between the door and latch. You’ll find them in the bag of door hardware along with the stainless acorn nuts & washers, leather door straps, etc.

361890


The driver’s side always needs one, sometimes two and the passenger side usually needs none, sometimes one.

Cheers,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #633
Plates are in
 

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A great plate!
 
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Discussion Starter #636
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installing plate bracket and light. I elected to notch the plate rather than do the plate holder mod. Trunk latch holes needed opened up to line up. Working on hood latches next. Windshield after
 
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Discussion Starter #637
Hood latches installed. I didn't like the idea of the self tapping screws holding my latches in, so I ended up using some stainless barrel bolts. I've also heard them called sex bolts. These are #8-32 and had to be shortened. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel. Also cut a notch in the head of the female side so that a flathead screwdriver could be used if the whole system started spinning. Happy with the results.
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Discussion Starter #638
362161
can someone help verify where the rear splash panels should be attached? Here where these 2 rivets are circled? Are they only attached at the top and at the bottom to the body?
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Unpacked windshield. Replacing brass strips with whitby's SS ones. Easier than anticipated.
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Attached trunk latch pin. That nut on the backside is a b*tch to get to.
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Made a template to close that gap between the rear wheel well and the cockpit so I won't get soaked driving in rain, at least not from the wheels.
 

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Regarding the rear splash panels: yes; I attached them through the trunk side aluminum but a little farther back than what you've indicated in red. I used #10-32 riv-nuts so the splash guards could be easily removed if necessary.


John

IMG_4822 by jhsitton, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #640 (Edited)
Working on windshield. Those posts are finicky and hard to get the exact bend to fit the top curve. I'm scared to crack the chrome plating. I'm glad I got the SS inserts as I've placed and removed those screws a ton of times. I found i had to use a slightly longer screw to get the top screw engaged with the threads on the insert.

Does anyone have a measurement for the distance between the posts at the bottom? The posts seem to be flaired out maybe 1/4"when measuring at the bottom of the windshield vs the very bottom of the posts. Not sure if it's imperative to have the posts perfectly parallel or if I can account for slight gaps using shims.

Oh, and what's the optimal distance from the top post screw to the rear door gap? 27"?

edit: ok. answered my own question. 27" from top screw center to rear door top. 33" from center of windshield to rear cowl center.
paint sticks under the outside windshield. posts are too close if bottom of windshield is too far off the body.
 
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