[egchewy]

JUST stick a hacksaw blade through the windshield hole and cut the bulb seal. good griff

gotta notch the aluminum panel as well, not just the seal.

edit: actually just saw that the panel is already notched. I couldn't remember when it put it in and didn't have any pics of it. i'll try this method first rich and see if it's enough. the pics that kleiner posted showed a larger notch that was not factory created and i assumed that i'd have to make a larger cut.

 

[egchewy]

Yes; I did it using a length of 2"x4" and a hand sledge. Just slip the 2"x4" between the wheel and the fender lip a give the upper & lower arms a good whack or three. For reference, I had to move the DS support 3/4"-1". The PS was fine.



I used a steel ruler & did not have to remove my wheels. If you're pressed for clearance, just jack the car up a little; ride height is not going to change the body position relative to the shock's upper bolt.



According to Edwards's build log, use McMaster-Carr



Nope; you need to trim the aluminum & notch the bulb seal so that the windshield post will fit. While you're doing, look at the DS windshield post slot as well. I found that the aluminum needed trimming so that the post could fit flush with the steel mounting plate.

As SC210Ford says, the body is going to go on and off a bunch more times.


John

thanks for the constructive feedback john. I already ordered the bushings from mcmaster last night.
i tried measuring to the shock tower, but with the car on the ground, the wheels got in the way. I was able to measure to the frame where the upper part of the F panel is riveted. not sure if this is consistent spacing from side to side. I'll jack up the car to get to the shock tower bolt.

 

[JKleiner]

Regarding the windshield slots and RH side firewall extension: See my post #4 in the post you linked

Windshield Bracket Slots

Ignore their position relative to the parting lines; the bodies and molds are not mirror images.

If you use the .75" OD, .125" wall seamless stainless tubing that I've recommended a number of times no bushings will be necessary---.5" ID with a 7/16" (.4375") bolt 'll have a net "gap" of .0625" which is fine.

Go Cart is looking good!

Jeff

 

[egchewy]

Regarding the windshield slots and RH side firewall extension: See my post #4 in the post you linked

Windshield Bracket Slots

Ignore their position relative to the parting lines; the bodies and molds are not mirror images.

If you use the .75" OD, .125" wall seamless stainless tubing that I've recommended a number of times no bushings will be necessary---.5" ID with a 7/16" (.4375") bolt 'll have a net "gap" of .0625" which is fine.

Go Cart is looking good!

Jeff

thanks jeff. this is the thread where i realized that the bulb seal needs to be interrupted. i forgot that the aluminum piece is already notched, but do you think i'll need to make the factory notch larger, or can i just cut the bulb seal through the body cutout like Rich suggested?

and i'm assuming the 7/16 bolts are not the factory provided ones? my provided hardware has a lot of slop between the bolts and the ID of the sleeve. I can't recall the wall thickness that I ordered, but I measured it at 0.6in using my digital calipers.

 

[JKleiner]

Eugene,
As I mentioned in that other thread the notch in the aluminum firewall extension generally needs to be cut down 1/2"-3/4" farther so that it doesn't interfere with the windshield post. The factory provided hardware for the front and rear quickjacks/bumpers is 7/16-14. If you have a tubing ID of .6" it must be .075" wall rather than the .125" that I use and recommend.

Jeff

 

[egchewy]

took body back off, trimmed bulb seal and firewall for the PS windshield post.
also got my SS sleeves for the front QJs cut, polished. I did not pay attention to Kleiner's recommended ID and got a thinner walled tube, so I put some brass spacers in the sleeves to make them snug to the factory bolts. I had to hammer the spacers in the sleeves, and grind down some of the ID of the brass sleeves to make room for the bolts.

 

[egchewy]

so nice, i'm posting this twice.
posted this under a different thread as well

on the recs of one my friends and also from one of the local car club guys, one can apparently title w/o an inspection. i just took my COO from FFR, bill of sale for my engine/trans, and receipt for my kit and rear end and they issued a title, just like that! (i had to pay taxes and fees, of course)
because it was so fast, I drove to a nearby BMV (here in OH, title agency and BMV are separate locations, for the most part), got in line virtually, and was called in to get my registration. I did both, at 2 separate locations, in under an hour!!!

The car is titled as a 2019 (date on COO), but had to report the milage as a "non-actual" miles as I didn't have any odometer info on my 1966 block. apparently even if it's been rebuilt, they need to report actual miles. I don't think this will be an issue as when I end up selling, the kit car buyer will likely understand this issue.

I'm not sure why this hasn't been talked about on the forums at least in OH. I heard it was easy in OH, but didn't imagine that it'd be this easy. If this is some sort of "hush hush" loophole that has been keep quiet for some time in fear of them discovering it and closing the loophole, please let me know and I'll take down this post. I figured that this would help others in the same position.

 

[Brastic]

Congratulations. This is a big step to getting the car on the road. I also like how your picture matches this post.

 

[egchewy]

Opening cut outs a bit for front grommets, roll bar, etc. Also filed out the DS outrigger after knocking it in 1/8-1/4". Measured QJ bolts to be around 30-1/8" from center to center and made adjustments to the frame accordingly. Precut Roll bar holes were a bit too wide and had to be opened mostly on their inside edge. Side pipe openings next

 

[egchewy]

OK. body back on. Getting ready for fitting stuff.
Here's my plan in this order
1) rear QJs
2) front QJs
3) securing underside of side rockers to frame, PS pushed all the way in, DS rear pulled about 3/4" out and front pushed all the way in. slotted the holes in the body already for this.
4) windshield/roll bar
5) hood and trunk rough fitting/trimming
6) splash guards/elephant ears
7) door fitting/trimming
8) side pipe fitting and trimming of opening
9) mirrors

my understanding is that the elephant ears to adjust the body somewhat, so I've seen that I shouldn't trim the side pipe holes until after they are installed. I wasn't sure if the door fitting was affected as much by the elephant ears since the bottom of the body is secured to the frame already.
Please let me know if there needs to be a change in the order I attack this.

 

[jhargrove]

Quick Jacks

I would suggest the Kleiner rear quick jack mod. Do not over think it very easy. You may need it later on. Plus you can put nice polished acorn nuts on the ends instead of bolt heads.

I also reversed the front quick jack bolts so I can use the polished acorn nuts on the front too.

Jason

 

[egchewy]

thanks jason
I've already done the rear QJ coupler mod. planning on using acorn nuts. I kinda like the look of the QJs turned inward instead of facing out. would probably also save numerous future shin injuries as well.

 

[jhargrove]

thanks jason
I've already done the rear QJ coupler mod. planning on using acorn nuts. I kinda like the look of the QJs turned inward instead of facing out. would probably also save numerous future shin injuries as well.

I do not have the tear drop bumpers and other bumper acceceries in hand. But I feel it would fairly simple to switch the quick jacks out whenever you wanted a different look to the car. IDK. Just thinking ahead.

Jason

 

[egchewy]

"Kleiner Mod" FTW. Nut coupler, jam nut, another nut, washer on the inside. I used 1/2" nuts and all thread here.

fender washer, washer, stock factory sleeve, QJ, washer, nut on the outside.

I'll replace the nuts w/ SS acorn nuts. Made the mistake of not opening up the QJ bolt holes prior to powder coating and had to file away some of the powder coat.

opening up holes for the tail lights. you'd have to have hands the size of a racoon to get the washer/nut on the back of the mounting bolt. I'm assuming I'll need to take off the rear wheel to get to this area. wired things up and we're g2g.

fitting front QJ sleeves. used grommets from metro molded, 3/4" SS tubes. Had to get brass bushings to put inside the SS tubes as I ordered a thinner walled tube.

Here's my hood opening to radiator support frame gap. measured 1/2" initially until I snugged up one of the QJ bolts. went up to around 3/4" total. My DS is a bit higher than the PS at the radiator tube by about 1/4". is this normal?

door striker to body distance around 1/8-1/4" depending on where you measure. Hope this is forward enough.

 

[egchewy]

Side pipe cutouts opened up and pipes installed. They seem pretty good position. Maybe I won't need wedges after all.

 

[egchewy]

rough fitting hood, doors, trunk.
Taking off just enough material to get panels to fit in the openings. I'll let the body/paint guy take it from there. I'm finding that the curve in the trunk seems to want to ride a bit higher than the surrounding body, worse on my DS. I do need to take a bit more material off the front edge of the trunk panel, but wasn't sure if this was a common area of concern, if my body was sitting too low, or something else. any tricks? I did install the trunk seal as recommended by the FF youtube channel so the trunk lid sits up a bit.

 

[SC210Ford]

You’re moving right along!

My mk3 trunk fit like that, but worse.


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[egchewy]

You’re moving right along!

My mk3 trunk fit like that, but worse.


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so does this just get contoured with filler later? or is there any adjusting I need to do to close that distance?

 

[egchewy]

Trunk lid still giving me fits. Seems like there's a lot of excess material at the front. Also suspect too much material at the bottom that's making it sit high in the opening. Trimming away some of the front wheel well. Dusty... here are some pics of before and after trimming

 

[SC210Ford]

so does this just get contoured with filler later? or is there any adjusting I need to do to close that distance?

I ended up cutting the trunk apart, re-contouring it and glassing it back together


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