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Great!!!


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Congratulations! There's nothing like a first start, especially if you have to overcome some last-minute obstacle!


John
 

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Discussion Starter #524
replaced my PS inner valve springs last night after the break in process. In doing so, I have to remove the plugs and use compressed air in the cylinders to keep the valves from falling in and I noticed that my #1 plug had significantly more carbon deposit than the other 3 on that side. Any thoughts on this? should I replace the plug right away or clean it up a bit a see if this continues to be black? the plugs were brand new when i started the break in process, so it's only been running 30min. Using a 30002 FiTech.
 
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Discussion Starter #526 (Edited)
Show us a photo of all four.

Jeff
Doing you one better. Here are all 8. #5 and 6 are pretty dark as well. #1 looked like them before i wiped it down. We did have a misfire for part of the break in a #3 plug wire was loose. I was informed this could lead to a situation like this.
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Discussion Starter #527
time to step away for a bit
I replaced all the inner springs today and managed to set the lash on all the rockers.
Got spark plugs reinstalled and tightened. hooked up all the plug wires and buttoned up the air cleaner.
just need to do a quick oil/filter change and then drive the car a bit, right?
WRONG!
while jacking up the front of the car, I discovered that the Breeze front battery box is not strong enough to support the weight of the car :(
jack slipped off the 4" tube while going up and caught the corner of the battery box, thus ripping out all the rivets and shearing off one of the screws.
There is one rivet still hanging on, and happens to be one in a very hard to get location since the engine is in now. I'll need to ponder this a bit and drill out the sheared screw stuck in the 4" tube.
time to walk away and regroup.
that is all. have a great holiday weekend.
 

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We all have those days sooner or later.
Take a break, have a beer and try again when your feeling in a better mood.


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Oh man, that sucks. Hopefully the repair becomes easier after stepping back. At least the battery didn't leak acid or short out??

Regards Nigel
 

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Discussion Starter #530
ok. had some time today while my toddler and pregnant wife were napping.
removed the hard to get rivet on the battery box using a dremel. tried removing broken screw in the 4" tube using an ez out, but no luck. Stainless screws are hard to drill in to.
I ended up drilling a new hole in the battery box and 4" frame. everything is back in order. replaced rivets.
oil/filter change accomplished and restarted engine. Idle is a bit rougher than I remember during break-in, but i was also keeping it at around 2k RPM the whole time.
here's a walk around video.
also backed it up out of garage and pulled it back in, so officially in the go kart stage i guess!
 
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Discussion Starter #532
on another note, picked up hardware to make my own j pipe turnbuckle supports. darkwater customs offers for $75. I got all the turnbuckles, washers, screws, nuts and exhaust hangers for around $55 including tax. not sure if this is a win or not. pics to follow.
 
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Congrats on getting to go-kart stage.

Is there enough clearance between the j-pipe and your clutch cable?
 

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Discussion Starter #534
Congrats on getting to go-kart stage.

Is there enough clearance between the j-pipe and your clutch cable?
Yes, plenty
 

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Discussion Starter #535
Working on J pipe turn buckle supports today. I was convinced I could make them cheaper than the $75 that dark water customs was asking. I think my final cost in parts was around $60, so yes, I was able to achieve this but just barely. I had some angled steel that I cut into 3/4" pieces, then flattened a bit to a 45*angle. Drilled some holes in either side and attached to my top side pipe bolt. Attached this to the turnbuckle with some bolts and washers. Turnbuckle then attached to exhaust hangers with more bolts and fender washers. Hanger attached to frame using metal strap. I had some larger heater hose laying around that fits over the frame. Nice side project but probably not worth the effort unless you already have some of the materials on hand. Also discovered the distance from pipe to frame is shorter on the PS, so I had to cut down some of my turnbuckle and the threaded hooks to have more adjustability.
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Discussion Starter #536
Officially go Karting! Drove it up and down driveway yesterday to get a feel for the clutch. How many miles do others drive in this state before getting the body on? No leaks so far so that's good. Should I do alignment with body off? I'd assume it's easier to get to the control arm with the body off.
Also thinking of getting the tenhulzen alignment tool. Anyone with experience?
Planning on 3-4*caster, -0.5* camber, and 1/16" toe in.
 
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Yes, access for alignment is easier with the body off so you can do it now if you wish. Set your ride height before alignment then after you add the additional weight of the body, interior and everything else that still needs to go on adjust it back to that ride height and your alignment specs will return to the same.

Jeff
 

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How many miles gokarting? It depends on your state. In TN you could get a tag just by filling out some forms; I know a guy there who gokarted for nearly 150 miles! Here in VA you have to have a completed car to get tags, so gokarting is illegal. But I may have heard of a guy in my neighborhood who put 15 miles on the odometer just toodling around.


John
 
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