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Discussion Starter #481
Like Dad said, "We buy you books and send you to school..." ;)

Eugene,
I suggest that you don't make that outside footbox panel permanent until you're ready to put the body on...it wouldn't be unusual for you to need access.

Jeff
Gotcha. I think I have my pedals all at comfortable heights, but would be easier to adjust without the outside wall on.
 

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Discussion Starter #482
productive day. several more items off the punch list.
-added transmission fluid (redline ATF) to my T5.
-everyone complains of the friction modifier smell for their gear oil. ATF smells just as bad. Filled from the top plate and ended up using around 3Q before it started puking out the fill hole on the side.
-removed both shorty headers. Had to clearance some of the header around #1 and #8 spark plugs as i was not able to get a socket on the plug with the header in place. scraped RTV and gasket off both mating surfaces, installed new gaskets and installed/torqued headers.
-removed inner valve springs on PS head in anticipation for flat tappet break in. Used compressed air in plug holes to keep the valves from falling in. used the tool that JKleiner recommended and it works great. learned to "walk out" the inner spring by sticking a flathead screwdriver into the outer spring and turning the spring, thus forcing the inner spring out until I can grab it from the bottom. will work on DS later.
-HAS ANYONE HAD ISSUES WITH CONDENSATION FORMING IN THEIR AIR COMPRESSORS? AT SEVERAL POINTS I NOTICED MOISTURE BLOWING OUT OF THE HOSE! Not sure if this was related to humidity or what. I sprayed fogging oil into the spark plug holes and left the plugs out to attempt to dry out any moisture that had blown into the block/heads.
-gapped all my spark plugs to 0.030" while i had them all out.
-Installed by oil dip stick. It was a kevko universal one, so had to be bent a bit to fit between the headers.
-rerouted my clutch cable to the outside of the lower 3/4" frame. originally had it inside and it was touching the steering shaft.
-installed PS J pipe, connected my O2 sensor for my FiTech. plan on making turnbuckle supports to attach J-pipes to the 3/4" tube above it. As I understand it, the header/jpipe will support the side pipes for now, correct? The side pipe support brackets are added at a later date? It just seems like an awful amt of torque being put on the headers/jpipes with the side pipes just hanging. I'll likely fashion a temp wire support for the side pipes to the door hinges.
-removed my hood hinges to remove the wave washers as recommended by jkleiner and ken pike. Thanks again for the heads up. I need to go to the hardware store to get a couple more regular washers to replace the wave ones.
-checked my oil pump driveshaft tool after ordering the incorrect one (1/4" not 5/16"). will likely fill the oil from the distributor hole for now prior to priming the system for first start. bought a case of Gibbs BR30 for tappet break in, and then subsequent 500mi break in period. loads of zinc in this oil.

getting closer....
 
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Condensation is natural when compressing air and you should drain your compressor at the end of the day. I've heard of compressor tanks rupturing from weakness caused by rust.
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #484
Condensation is natural when compressing air and you should drain your compressor at the end of the day. I've heard of compressor tanks rupturing from weakness caused by rust.
JR
Makes sense. I've never seen water spray out before though
 

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Pretty much normal. The hotter and more humid and the longer the compressor runs the more vapor comes out. Draining the tank is step #1. You may also want to run your pipe from the compressor, up to near the ceiling, and then down an up in a big U shape w/ a drain valve at the bottom of the U. Google for more details on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #486
got a few more things done. all inner valve springs are now out and ready for break-in. I have the PS rods and rockers reinstalled and need to work on DS. will then establish zero lash or preload and then tighten the rocker bolts 1/2-3/4 turn.
I installed my overflow tank today to my PS F panel. Top of the cap is around 2in below the bottom of the 3/4" frame so I should be good re hood strut clearance.

I also had a friend over to help fill the coolant system today. I bought 2 gallons of universal coolant (not premixed) and 2 gallons of distilled H2O. For my 289 SBF, it took just around 4 gallons to fill. I first opened the DS upper radiator petcock to vent air and started filling from the T filler, alternating between 1/2 gallon coolant and 1/2 gallon water. After about 1/2 gallon total fluid, I heard a drip, more like a gush, on the garage floor. There was fluid pouring out of my block. There's apparently a coolant drain hole in the block on the front PS and rear DS that I assumed were grounding points. In fact, I tried to attach my engine ground strap there but couldn't find a bolt to fit the hole. After a bit of cleanup and a trip to the hardware store, those holes are plugged w/ a 1/4" NPT bung w/ PTFE paste on the threads.
After getting about 2 gallons (minus the cup or so on the floor) in the T piece, I had disconnected my heater hose from the heater valve and started filling the intake manifold from the hose. I had unscrewed both the EFI temp sensor as well as the water temp sender on the water neck to allow for air egress and to also see fluid level. After this, I started filling fluid into the heater core through the heater valve until it was topped off. Reconnected heater hose to valve and tightened hose clamp. Here's where it gets a bit more interesting...

I had "rented" a coolant pressure tester kit from my local NAPA and hooked everything up. We pumped pressure to around 15psi and noted mult areas of leaking, mostly around the hose clamps. Tightening up the hose clamps seemed to fix those leaks. There was additional leak from the front of the water pump that took a bit more investigation. At first, I thought it was leaking through one of the water pump bolts. Turns out there's a bit of a leak between the metal nipple of the heater return and the pump itself. I'll post another thread to get some ideas for a fix. I'm sure as hell not going to pull the pump off at this point. I'm thinking some healthy amount of JB weld might be enough to fix this leak, but will try to get other ideas.

overall, pretty good night working on the car. Up next, filling the block w/ break in oil , priming the system, getting some prelim settings on the FiTech, crossing fingers, and turning the key.
 
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There was no reason to remove the sender to fill the block, just pour the coolant into the T filler. JB Weld should work for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #488
There was no reason to remove the sender to fill the block, just pour the coolant into the T filler. JB Weld should work for awhile.
I've just heard of situations where an air bubble gets stuck around the senders, making for a inaccurate temp situation, esp around the one on top of the water neck. Regardless, it's done, I was able to fill to the very top, purging air, and re-installing senders. I'll need to research possible solution for the water pump nipple...
 
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Discussion Starter #489
current problem...
while I'm trying to figure out the leaking heater nipple on the water pump, I went ahead and installed my push rods, rockers and bolts to establish zero lash. I've pulled off my heater return hose and tried knocking the push fitting in with a piece of 2x4 and heavy mallet. I marked the neck of the nipple as well. Didn't seem to want to go any further. I'll try the wicking loctite 290 plus JB weld next.
Anyway, I digress. As I'm turning the motor over manually, I hear fluid come out. I just assume it's coming from my water pump from the heater return port since it's disconnected. turn the motor again and another big splash. I take a look a discover that my #5 cylinder is leaking fluid from the spark plug hole. As the piston is moving up, it's pushing the water out. In a moment of panic I take off the oil pan plug (no oil yet) and it's dry (whew). I take some paper towel, twist it up, and wick out all the moisture from cylinder #5. As I proceed w/ the turning of the motor, same thing happens from #8. I used an air compressor to keep the valves up when I was removing my inner springs. At one point, there was a bunch of water coming from the air hose joint to the air valve connection. It was a really humid day and I was running my compressor for a while, so I didn't think much of it. I'm hoping that the water coming out (wasn't an insignificant amount) was just condensation. I tried checking the color compared to my antifreeze (pale yellow color) and couldn't really tell from the paper towel. I also tried smelling it but also couldn't really tell. It may also be a bad head gasket on the DS head. I guess I can hook the coolant system back up and pressurize it again and see if #5 and #8 fill back up with fluid. geesh....feels like i'm moving backwards here.
 

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Oh man, I feel for you. I hope it is just compressor condensation but.....we will see I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #492
OK. good-ish news I suppose.
I pressurized the system again, and again, noticed small, slow leak at the heater return nipple at the water pump. I'll try to seal this off once I get some loctite.
The good news is there doesn't appear to be a head gasket leak or cracked head on the DS. No fluid noted in #5 or #8 cylinders. I'm guessing it was left over condensation from my compressor? I am however hearing a hiss, loudest over PS header. I opened the butterflies on my EFI and hiss is reverberating and louder inside the manifold. No liquid leaking that I can visualize anywhere over on the PS, the front or rear of the manifold or on the top of the manifold. I tightened the extra sender bungs on the top of the manifold, but hiss continues and system won't hold pressure, which is not surprising given the known leak. I'm not sure if the hiss is coming from water pump leak...I doubt it.
I might need to fill up the system wiht some distilled water and see if I can see a leak anywhere.

On a separate note, I had custom length braided PTFE fuel lines from Forte. My fuel line from the filter in the back to the EFI was way too long. I had a straight connector and a 45* would have been better, so I decided to take it upon myself to cut the line and try to install my own fitting. Not so fast my friend. Ended up screwing up the end of the line. I'm not sure if the ferrule/olive that I received was way too big. Maybe I bought the wrong fitting. Luckily I gave myself a little slack and will either send the line back to Mike for a new fitting or find a local speed shop to put one on.
 
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Discussion Starter #493
still dealing w/ the coolant leak saga. but was able pull the fitting off w/ a vise clamp. drained some coolant, and put a coat of JB weld around the fitting and knocked it back in place. Will let this cure for a while and then top off coolant and pressure test again.
359820


In the meantime. I was able to set my pinion angle. you'd think it be easier to conceptualize and it took me a minute to determine what 2* meant. I think it figured it out and am right at 2*. ended up using al 3 of my Forte shims (289 w/ a T5) as I wasn't comfortable with the amount of threads showing on my 3 link (had about 1" showing on each end using only 2 shims). started installing my metco safety loop and it looks like i'll need to make a spacer for this as well. at stock height, it totally interferes w/ my e-brake pulley mod and the driveshaft itself. I'm estimating about an inch to get clearance. I'll need to do some additional research to see what others have used. longer bolts needed as well.
pretty pleased w/ my progress despite some minor set backs in the past few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #494
heater nipple reinstalled with a coat of JB weld. Cured the leak after pressure testing again. Only audible leak was from the pressure tool itself. No additional fluid in cylinders. Must have been condensation from my air compressor when removing springs. Installed my metco safety loop tonight with 1" spacers to get the driveshaft away from the top. I ended up putting my ebrake cables inside the loop. This was the only geometry that prevented the cables from chafing on the hoop. I figure if the driveshaft is going to explode, I'll have bigger things to worry about other than my cables
359851
 

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Discussion Starter #495
hood hinge mounts and ball joint plates riveted to hood today. the factory holes (at least for the ball joint plates) were way off on one side and needed re-drilled.
I also started to wire up my distributor harness to my coil.
is it an OK idea to ground the harness to a valve cover stud? it's right there and I wouldn't need to drill another hole in the frame.
waiting to get my fuel lines back from fragola (needed one cut shorter and switched to a 45* end) and will get those installed. I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes along my 4" frame for attaching my line separators that I received from AN plumbing.
first start is right around the corner. played w/ some initial fitech settings as well. will need to do some more research on this.
 
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