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Discussion Starter #461
Finished Forte's throttle linkage, installed throttle stop with a carriage bolt. Does return spring location seem reasonable?
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Not a waxer
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It all looks good Eugene! Cycle your throttle repeatedly to be sure that the inner and outer coil springs don't bind on one another when it comes back to your idle screw. A few years ago I was on a cruise and a friend's car had the idle start hanging at about 1,500---when I looked at it I found that the two coils were binding and didn't let the throttle fully return.

Jeff
 

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I prefer the springs be out front. Look at it from the point of view of load on the carb throttle bearings. If they are bearings it may not be a big deal but, if they are bushings... The way they are now the throttle itself is pulling toward the rear. The springs are also pulling to the rear. If you put the springs out front, the load on the shaft bushings/bearings is closer to equal between the linkage pull and the spring pull.
 

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I seem to recall reading that heavy-footed folks have bent the steel plate where you've mounted the carriage bolt. Almost certainly not an issue on the street, but if you track the car or do autocross, you may want to consider beefing that plate up.


John
 

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Discussion Starter #465
I seem to recall reading that heavy-footed folks have bent the steel plate where you've mounted the carriage bolt. Almost certainly not an issue on the street, but if you track the car or do autocross, you may want to consider beefing that plate up.


John
Carriage bolt hit directly in the middle of the gas pedal arm. Pretty sure I won't be putting the "pedal to the metal" much anyway.
 

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I’ve only put the pedal about halfway down in my Coyote before the rear end breaks loose. Can’t imagine jamming it to the floor.... at least not yet. Different accelerator pedal, anyway.


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Discussion Starter #467 (Edited)
several more items off my punch list
-moved + battery cable to the inside of the PS 4" tube. it was formerly running on the outside, which would have put it directly under my J pipe
-started drilling/tapping the outside of my PS frame for my flex SS braided fuel line. that is until I snapped my tap. I have line separators that have a slightly longer bolt that goes through the middle that will tap into my frame. I think i'm going to rivet in a few insulated clips for insurance along the path of my fuel and return lines.
-had to mess w/ my throttel linkage a bit. gas pedal was a bit too high for my liking. in the process discovered that my tension pin on one of the arms wasn't actually all the way in. glad i found out now.
-started mocking up a template for a lower radiator hose. my stupid pre 1969 engine has the water pump coolant inlet on the PS instead of the DS. All aftermarket solid tubes are for the DS inlet. I used some spare brake line, heater hose insulation, to mock up a shape. seems to be about right. i'll find a custom muffler shop who can mandrel bend me some 1 1/2" tubing and put in a flair/raised bead for a hose clamp.
-attached my shifter and Breeze knob and did the obligatory pretend driving/shifting, making vroom vroom sounds in my head.
-attached new delco engine temp sensor for my fitech. read that the one that comes w/ the unit reads consistently 20* too cool.
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Discussion Starter #469
Heater hoses. Does this look right? I'll shorten then a bit of course
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Discussion Starter #471
Got my custom radiator tubes back. Shout out to tubular techniques in Hilliard Ohio for a nice mandrel bend job. Wired up starter, temp senders, oil pressure sender, alternator mega fuse
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, fitech fuel pump and fan ground wires
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. Installed upper radiator tube. Need to get a couple more hose clamps before installing lower tube.
 
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Discussion Starter #473

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Discussion Starter #474 (Edited)
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added lower radiator tube. my custom bent template was pretty darn close. I used the breeze lower tube mount but apparently it only works if the tube is parallel to the x-tube as i'm not able to drill/tap holes with the mount off a bit. I ended up zip-tie-ing the mount in place with 2 zip ties in each hole. I figured this isn't bearing much weight anyway and should be ok.
attached my coil. if anyone else is doing this, tighten the clamp around the coil first before mounting to the head as you won't be able to get any tools in there if you put the mount on the heads first.
i was starting to think about stabbing in my distributor and was going to find TDC. tried removing my #1 spark plug and noticed that my header interferes with the plug. time to remove the header to clearance it a bit. new gaskets needed :(
found an issue w/ my oil pump shaft that fits into the bottom of my dizzy too...separate thread to follow re this.
 

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Discussion Starter #475
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OK. figured out that my oil pump shaft might have been installed upside down by the original owner. the retainer is in place, so I'd need to remove my oil pan if I wanted to flip it around. I also understand that it doesn't make much of a difference other than being harder to slide the distributor on to the shaft. I crawled under the car and the rear oil pan bolts are not accessible unless I remove the engine/trans or disengage the trans from the engine. I'm not going to do either. I plugged in my drive shaft today to see how things line up. Finger tightened the bolts. There's some goo on the bolts that came from FF. Didn't really look like threadlock that I've seen. Almost like a grease. Should I be applying any threadlock to these or is the "goo" that came on the bolts some sort of locker? I'll mess w/ pinion angle once I get the car off jacks (still working on running fuel lines).
while I was under the car, I noticed that I used an inappropriate transmission block off plate. The one that came w/ the donor must have been for automatic transmission b/c it covers the clutch cable hole. Nothing like trying to cut off a piece of this plate using a dremel while on your back.
Took off my DS shorty header as the flange prevented me from getting at my #1 spark plug. I used an angle grinder to clearance this a bit. I'll need to get some thin walled sockets as well to get the plugs in and out. I'll need to scrape off the residual gasket, RTV and buy some new gaskets.

Almost forgot the biggest positive for the day...I got my FiTech wired up. Seems to be communicating correctly. I had to search the forum to finally get the correct sequence of wiring:
Here's my setup. Fitech Go EFI 600HP, RTR billet dizzy, old fashion coil., no spark box.
RF orange wire ->white Fitech AND pos coil terminal
RF purple tach-> pos coil terminal
Fitech blue wire ->neg coil terminal
FiTech Red wire-> constant 12v
FiTech Orange wire -> power to fuel pump relay in fuse box (in my case, orange wire going from fuse to relay)
FiTech Yellow wire-> RF dark green fan/thermo wire (x2, one in front harness with the headlight/horn wires, and one that runs with the sender wires. I stripped the front harness wire out of the loom and hooked it to a manual dash controlled fan switch)
Not using Fitech speed sender wires as I have the vintage GPS gauges.

Pretty happy w/ my progress from today.
 
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Discussion Starter #476
Another productive day. Got clutch cable installed. I noticed that the distance necessary for the firewall adjuster to get the cable taut didn't leave many threads left for future adjustment as the cable stretches. I fashioned a spacer using one of the bushings from the original steering rack. Works great and gives me plenty of threads for future adjustments. I ended up using only the rubber bushing and not the metal sleeve in the pic.
Quick question, what does the bracket on the OEM clutch cable attach to?
Also carpeted the DS front footbox wall and cockpit. Seat mount installed. DS lap belts installed. Seats next. Getting ready to install outer footbox wall soon.
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Looking good!

The clutch cable bracket bolts to the frame of the mustang to keep it away from the headers.
Don’t need it on the cobra, I cut mine off and used a zip tie to secure it.


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