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It's in the "Donor Part Preparation" section of the manual. Not sure if you have that version of the manual, or a complete kit version.
 

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Discussion Starter #444
It's in the "Donor Part Preparation" section of the manual. Not sure if you have that version of the manual, or a complete kit version.
I got a complete kit manual, but am using a donor T5. at least that explains why i don't see it in my manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #445
Here's all I have in my manual re trans prep. Maybe most new builds are using more HP than a T5 can handle. Can't think of another reason why they would remove that bit about trimming off the tab.
359176
 

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Discussion Starter #446
I just ran across this post on the other forum. what a timely coincidence! it appears that the T5 attachment to the bellhousing is a bit off, which is normal/intentional? i checked my tab again and it's close, but not actually touching. I'm glad that's one less thing I need to cut off.
 
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Discussion Starter #447 (Edited)
Mocking up some stuff right now. with my donor air cleaner, will this be too tall? the air cleaner doesn't seem to sit flush with the Fitech due to a bump on the PS. I'll likely need a spacer of some sort. My donor engine also came with a carb spacer. Obviously, this would make the cleaner even taller, but was wondering what others thought about using one. I'll likely need to get new studs between the intake and carb if I don't use the spacer as the stock ones won't thread down all the way without one.
i'm also planning on swapping my valve covers so the PCV/breather is on the PS and the air cleaner is on the DS.
Had to move my + battery cable as well. I was running it along the side of my DS 4" tube on it's way to my cutoff switch under the dash, but realized that my Jpipe runs right over it. I'll likely move it to the inside of the tube so it won't melt.
Drilled and pinned my forte throttle linkage last night as well (no pics yet).

any recommended torque specs for the motor and trans mounts? I did 50ft lbs. on the motor mounts.
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Discussion Starter #449
Too tall.

Jeff
(y) what's the max clearance, say measured from the top of the valve cover or relative to the firewall? could I just use a shallower filter element?
 

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I really do not know how relative this info is. At the build school I took a measurement from the top of their 302 block to the hood and it was 13 in.

It's weird I feel we have similar set up and I have room between the filter and hood.

When I get a chance it will take some measurements off mine.
 

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There are too many variables from one combination to another so instead of trying to measure from the engine do it like this; come 16 inches forward from the firewall (this should be approximately the center of your carb/FiTech) and lay a straight edge across the square tube frame rails that run along the hood opening. Go halfway in between the rails and measure up 3 inches. This is the underside of the hood at it's high point---it becomes less as you move outward and forward.

That'll tell you whether it will fit as-is.

Jeff
 

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As Jeff mentioned so many variables that make the engine sit the way it does.

I feel Chewy and I have a similar setup and process. I had plenty of room at top and the oil pan was low.

I would still like to have mine raised a little for the oil pan sake. And Chewy possibly needs to lower it. Crazy.

Chewy I wonder how much room you have underneath? Where is your oil pan sitting?
.
 

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Your setups are no way similar. You have twin carbs on a low base intake, Chewy has a single carb with a high base intake. Having 289/302 base blocks have very little to do with hood clearance, it's the intake height that changes things.
 

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Discussion Starter #454
As Jeff mentioned so many variables that make the engine sit the way it does.

I feel Chewy and I have a similar setup and process. I had plenty of room at top and the oil pan was low.

I would still like to have mine raised a little for the oil pan sake. And Chewy possibly needs to lower it. Crazy.

Chewy I wonder how much room you have underneath? Where is your oil pan sitting?
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I swapped stock pan w/ a kevco racing pan. it's exactly flush with the bottom of the 4" tubes. I had to add 2 forte transmission shims to get the back of the pan at or just above the frame.
 

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No I understand we have complete different setup from that point of view.

I guess what I meant was I though general profile or "shape" deminsions would be similar. But like you said

289 vs 302
Carbs vs FI
Low profile manifold vs High

I get it. I do not think my thoughts came out right. I was attempting to express how different they turned out with the same basic "shape".

Jason
 

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I swapped stock pan w/ a kevco racing pan. it's exactly flush with the bottom of the 4" tubes. I had to add 2 forte transmission shims to get the back of the pan at or just above the frame.

Yeah I added three for the drivetran angle sake. Which in turn, got the oil pan just about flush. I would not mind adding a 4th for a little wiggle room for the pan. I have wiggle room in the angle of the drivetran/drive shaft.
 

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Motor mounts can affect engine height by a surprising amount.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #458
Yeah I added three for the drivetran angle sake. Which in turn, got the oil pan just about flush. I would not mind adding a 4th for a little wiggle room for the pan. I have wiggle room in the angle of the drivetran/drive shaft.
If I'm not using my third spacer, you can have it
 

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Discussion Starter #460 (Edited)
Starting to look at my alternator wiring. It is a donor 3G style alternator w/ ASI plug. I need to get the stator plug to connect to the S wire. I assume that the "alternator" wire from the RF front harness goes to the "I" wire? And I'm seeing some different diagrams re the type of mega fuse to use between the "B" terminal of the alternator and the solenoid. Would you guys recommend a 100a fuse of 175a mega fuse, because I've seen diagrams with both?
 
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