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Discussion Starter #422
I anchored the submarine belt about 3-4" in front of the breeze seat mount. It goes through the aluminum and steel floor below. The mount is hidden by the front if the seat cushion and gives enough room for forward adjustment of the seat.
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Discussion Starter #424
Went to hardware store today to pick up some bolts. Ended up getting nothing that fits/ works. Why are T5 bolts a mix of metric and SAE? I read on a mustang forum that the 2 lower bellhousing bolted were 5/16"-18. I checked the size with 1/4"-20 bolt that I had laying around and it was clearly too small. Well 5/16" is too large. I'm guessing it's a M7 bolt.
 

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No such thing as an M7 bolt. Unless it is a special OEM part that needs to be ordered in from Unicorn Industrial Supply.

Could possibly be a smaller diameter bolt with a larger diameter unthreaded shank., a bit like the door hinge pivot bolts.

Sounds like plenty of frustrating times there. Best of luck, I'm sure someone here will have a solution.

Cheers, Nigel
 

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Discussion Starter #426
No such thing as an M7 bolt. Unless it is a special OEM part that needs to be ordered in from Unicorn Industrial Supply.

Could possibly be a smaller diameter bolt with a larger diameter unthreaded shank., a bit like the door hinge pivot bolts.

Sounds like plenty of frustrating times there. Best of luck, I'm sure someone here will have a solution.

Cheers, Nigel
not quite sure what you mean. 1/4"-20 was too small and 5/16"-18 was too large. unless they make a 9/32" bolt, then I'm guessing it's a metric threaded hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #428
Do you need the transmission to bell housing bolts?



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I have these bolts already in place. there are 4 long ones and 2 shorter ones. at the bottom of the bellhousing, there are 2 additional smaller tapped holes for an inspection or block off plate. I used a transmission block off plate that came w/ my donor engine that, in retrospect, was a block off for an automatic transmission. this block off plate has a gap in the bottom 1/4 of the bellhousing. This exposed area of the flywheel is behind the back of my oil pan, and will likely not get direct dirt/dust/water, but i do worry about things splashing up when driving on wet roads or through puddles. the make an inspection plate that fills this gap nicely, but I need to bolt it on to the bottom 2 holes, thus my current situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #429 (Edited)
I now pronounce you car and drivetrain. you may kiss the pavement.

by far the most difficult part of the build hands down.
for those of you who can do this alone in 10 min, big props. you must have a very different set up than me.
here's the sequence of events for me:
-HF 1ton hoist. arm set at 1/2 ton, shorty headers attached.
-get hoist lifted, trans in engine bay, angle down, advance.
-as we lower angle, notice that crank pulley is not going to clear the front breeze battery location. deliberate between removing crank pulley vs battery.
-raise hoist. remove battery, advance and lower angle.
-motor mounts are still 3-4" away from slots. ram of the hoist touching the radiator cross member. can't move hoist any more rearward.
-decide that we need to make hoist arm longer, at the 1/4 ton setting.
-worry that the hoist might tip since engine/trans is probably over 500lbs.
-readjust hoist to 1/4ton to get longer arm. reattempt
-get to the same point, ram against radiator cross member. still at least 1" away from getting engine mount bolts into the slots, despite pushing rearward with all our might and pulling up on trans tail.
-remove entire drivetrain again. this time we decide to lengthen chains attached to block to be able to swing block more.
-attempt insertion of drivetrain. ram against crossmember. we get PS mount in place, but DS mount pin is not seating into slot. multiple attempts of adjusting the leveler, jacking up engine on PS and simultaneously dropping hoist and we get both mounts in!
-appears that i'll need 2 forte trans spacers to get the rear of the oil pan above bottom of the 4" tubes.

by the numbers
3 guys
2 hours
4 margaritis
2 bloody knuckle
1 haircut
3 attempts
2 forte shims
1 happy builder
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I have these bolts already in place. there are 4 long ones and 2 shorter ones. at the bottom of the bellhousing, there are 2 additional smaller tapped holes for an inspection or block off plate. I used a transmission block off plate that came w/ my donor engine that, in retrospect, was a block off for an automatic transmission. this block off plate has a gap in the bottom 1/4 of the bellhousing. This exposed area of the flywheel is behind the back of my oil pan, and will likely not get direct dirt/dust/water, but i do worry about things splashing up when driving on wet roads or through puddles. the make an inspection plate that fills this gap nicely, but I need to bolt it on to the bottom 2 holes, thus my current situation.

Sounds like you need the two small bolts from this kit.


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Discussion Starter #432

Sounds like you need the two small bolts from this kit.


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I worked it out. tried M7 bolts, but threads were too fine for the threads of the bellhousing. I ended up using 1/2"-20 bolts, washers, and nuts to attach the plate.
 

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Congrats on engine-in, brother. Next stop, first start.
 

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Discussion Starter #435
That's a major milestone---good job!

Jeff
thanks jeff
a 2 ton hoist w/ a longer arm would have made it much easier. my hoist ram was up against the radiator cross member, and we had to "swing" the drivetrain forward to get the bolts in the mounting tabs. not ideal.
 

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Can’t wait for the first start video!


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Discussion Starter #437 (Edited)
Ok, while buttoning up trans (T5) and motor mounts, I noticed that the top of the shifter plate was angled. It looks like there's a tab on the PS of the trans that's interfering with the e brake mount. Don't recall reading anything about trimming any mounting tabs off a T5. Thinking about loosening all mounts, lifting the tail, and trying to cut it off in place without pulling the drivetrain out again. Any recommendations? Or could I just leave it as is? Shifter plate is angled towards DS maybe 10*. Tab can be seen just under the diagonal cross member in the 2nd pic
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I would try to cut that off, we had a similar tab on the AOD in my dad’s cobra. An air body saw fit in there and cut it off quick and easy.

It will at minimum transfer engine vibration to the chassis.

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Discussion Starter #440
Somewhere in the manual it tells you to cut it off and even has a photo. You should be able to get to it by working from below using a long metal blade in a Sawzall.

Jeff
thanks. I just recall reading about the bottom bracket on a TKO trans.
 
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