Factory Five Racing Forum banner

21 - 40 of 310 Posts

·
Not a waxer
Joined
·
11,549 Posts
This is how the BJs are on the UCA. is it possible the rest of the assembly was upside down?

looking at the pics again, I think I did put the BJs on correctly. I think the rest of the assembly is upside down. It looks like the bolts should be coming in from above and the nuts should be on the bottom? I'll flip everything around and keep the BJs in the UCAs as shown. On a separate note, you can see that the BJ is not fully seated in the UCA. This is as tight as I can get it even using a bench top clamp. Any suggestions getting these last 2 threads to turn? Do I need to get a torch? I've read some other forums complaining of the stock BJs that come with the complete kit and recommended getting other ball joints, in which case I'll need a torch to remove the current ones.
As has been said many times on both forums; the upper control arms are not a Factory Five specific part and can be assembled in various configurations depending on the application. The orientation that they are in when shipped from the vendor are not the proper configuration for our cars. It's up to the end used to do the "mix & match, flip & turn" of the components to wind up in the proper configuration. So, looking at your photo we can see that you have installed the ball joint in the correct direction however it is not seated:



You can't leave it like this and yeah, since you used the red thread locker it's probably going to be difficult to move without heat. Sorry :( Although some builders may feel otherwise---after having installed a bunch of them I've personally never had problems with the FFR supplied ball joints BUT (and this is a big but) you must remove the thick rust preventative coating from the threads before attempting to install them or they are likely to bind up much like yours did. Run them across a wire wheel to get get that stuff off and once you have them down to clean bare metal threads they'll turn in with very little effort and seat with a healthy "OOMPH".

As for spreading the tabs you can make a homebrewed tool with a section of threaded rod a few inches long, a couple of nuts and flat washers. The threaded rod goes through the holes in the tabs with nuts threaded on as shown here:



Turning the nuts opposite each other will spread the tabs. Easy peasey!

Cheers,
Jeff
 

·
FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
22,111 Posts
1/2 inch all thread, two 1/2 fender washers, two 1/2 in nuts. You install in the brackets so the huts are together in the center and the washers protect the inside of the mount ears when you turn the nuts to force the ears further apart. I recommend the 1/2 inch size so you can use your tool on other places if needed. Some of those will be smaller than the 5/8 on the LCAs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,369 Posts
I hate red Loctite. It has almost no uses on a car, the ball joints being the only exception. ALWAYS test fit parts before applying it, make sure it's correct. It only comes apart with heat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Sounds like I'm buying a torch🔥
I'll remove that rust coating with a wire wheel and it should seat down just fine. Thanks for the advice.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
170 Posts
Heat gun works well for heating parts attached with red loctite (ask me how I know) and you will use it when you get to shrinking wrap in the wiring phase.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Frustrating but loving it

Egchewy,

I am not much further along than you and at my rate of progress will probably be way behind in no time. Just about each step so far has been met with frustration of some sort. Tabs too narrow, too wide, UCAs incorrect, etc... After reading several build threads, mock up your work and ask for opinions before finalizing. Everything that you are going through has already been figured out by someone else. Learn from their trial and errors. Before modifying something, ask questions. Somehow, I was lucky with the ball joints. They threaded right on without issue. I had read that putting in the freezer helps. Mine were in my quite cold garage offered no resistance. I did use a wire brush on the threads first to get any crud off but had no issue. Once I got the "looks good" responses to pictures I posted on the other forum, I loosened and added thread locker and tightened on my bench vice.

I am going the donor route. My next step is to prep my donor rear end and set up the 3 link.

Good luck!

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Good to know. I'm guessing whatever method I use will result in a mess from the grease melting out of the ball joint. I've been trying to loosen it by hitting the end of the UCA with a plastic dead blow hammer while the ball joint is in the bench vise. Any other ideas to get better leverage, or will it move easily once I heat it up?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Thanks Rob. Lots of knowledge and helpful people out there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Do try heat. I have a small torch that I use on my bun piles. I tried to use brute strength to remove a few rusted on bolts. They loosened after putting the torch on them for a while. I had a similar issue trying to remove flywheel bolts. My impact had no effect. I got them red hot, cooled a little and then the impact worked.

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Come to think of it, I have a small kitchen torch that I use to make creme brulee that would work just fine!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,110 Posts
Egchewy,

I am not much further along than you and at my rate of progress will probably be way behind in no time. Just about each step so far has been met with frustration of some sort. Tabs too narrow, too wide, UCAs incorrect, etc... After reading several build threads, mock up your work and ask for opinions before finalizing. Everything that you are going through has already been figured out by someone else. Learn from their trial and errors. Before modifying something, ask questions. Somehow, I was lucky with the ball joints. They threaded right on without issue. I had read that putting in the freezer helps. Mine were in my quite cold garage offered no resistance. I did use a wire brush on the threads first to get any crud off but had no issue. Once I got the "looks good" responses to pictures I posted on the other forum, I loosened and added thread locker and tightened on my bench vice.

I am going the donor route. My next step is to prep my donor rear end and set up the 3 link.

Good luck!

Rob
Solid advice right there.


John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
Ball joint-2, me-0
Ok, so I used a kitchen butane torch on the a- frames for like 2 minutes, moving it circumferentially to get an even heating. Ball joint was in bench vise and still wouldn't budge. Should I apply more heat, more leverage, or both? From my research, it looks like the correct ball joint socket is a 1-59/64" (odd size) so I ordered a socket and will get a breaker bar and cheater bar and show this whos the boss! Also wondered if an impact air gun would take it off. I must have underestimated my own strength when tightening these 😂
 

·
Not a waxer
Joined
·
11,549 Posts
The thread locker doing it's job is what's preventing you from removing it. It's gonna' take more heat than you'll generate with a butane torch. Don't worry about melting grease out of the ball joint (aside from making a bit of a mess)--- you'll pump it full again when you lube it the first time.

Good luck,
Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Finally got the BJs unstuck using a propane torch and air impact gun. Stripped the coating off with a wire wheel and it hand threaded in perfectly. Torqued to 100ft lbs. I had to wait for my BJ socket to arrive in the mail. I had a 2' breaker bar and a 3'steel pipe cheater bar waiting just in case. Front suspension is taking shape. The steering arm has a smooth side and a rougher side. Which side should face the ground? The manual just states that the tie rods attach from the bottom.
 

Attachments

·
Not a waxer
Joined
·
11,549 Posts
Happy to hear that you resolved the ball joint issue! After you confirmed that it would thread all the way in did you back it out a couple of turns and apply thread locker? I'f not I'd recommend that you do.

The steering arms install so that they angle outward with the larger diameter of the tapered hole facing down. In this photo the arm on the right is installed correctly with the one on the left held next to it so that the difference between the large and small diameter of the tapered hole is visible.



Cheers,
Jeff
 
21 - 40 of 310 Posts
Top