Factory Five Racing Forum banner

361 - 380 of 414 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Installed heater vents and duct work. Working on heater plumbing. Got dash all wired and hooked into harness. Time to get a battery to test lights, brights, turns, and brakes.
How close do others have their steering wheel to the dash? I think I need to knock the steering shaft so the wheel is closer. View attachment 358084 View attachment 358085
That leather is ?? just love that color,so nice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter #362 (Edited)
Made cardboard templates of the footbox panels 12 months ago. Finally being put to use a year later. Corner seams are much easier to tape if you crease the aluminum tape first with the backing still on.
358096
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter #365
Been working on heat/ sound insulation. I settled on kilmat after reading several opinions. Fairly easy to use, cuts easily with utility knife. I'm not sure how many times I ended up marking the wrong side of the material and cutting the mirror image of what I actually needed. PS footbox was easier to apply with panels in. DS is way more difficult. I ended up putting insulation on the top and outside panel without panels installed. Leaving the cockpit floor until I get body on and seat brackets installed. I only ordered one box which probably won't be enough for the entire cockpit area. Will order another and likely line the trunk as well.
358151
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter #367 (Edited)
so i've finished my sound deadening with some good quarantine time. i left the cockpit floors undone until i get the body on so i can figure out where the seat mounts need to go. i bit the bullet and bought a battery today. 51R cheap lead acid battery per Kleiner's recs, 500CCA. with the help of my son, we installed it into the breeze front battery box and starting touching wires together. we got the lights (low and hi beam), turn signals (signal dynamics self cancelling module), hazards, brake and running lights all working. fuel pump kicks on when key is turned. horn works. underdash LEDs work (but not dimmable as I thought they might be using the headlight switch. they just kinda turn off and on despite turning the dimmer). One weird thing is that i had wired my brakes to work with the upper light of my rear lights. for some reason, on both sides, the brakes lit up on the bottom. not sure if i mislabeled the weatherpaks on both sides, or if the RF harness was mislabeled or not assembled correctly. NBD, i'll just relabel the harnesses.

one weird thing that I encountered is that initially when trying to use the hazards, only the right front and rear lights blinked. i jostled some of the connections behind the dash and have both sides blinking now. not sure what was wrong. again, i'm using the signal dynamics module with a momentary push button switch under the dash. I have the outpt on this DPDT switch spliced into the left and right input wires on the module. Kleiner? any thoughts or have you ever encountered this?

do most people run the pos battery cable to their cutoff switch, and then everything else that needs to be powered on this switch? I'll need a constant power to my EFI, so I'll attach it to the same post on the switch as my pos cable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Most people interrupt the positive cable with the cut-off switch. I believe that's the recommended approach.

I placed it in the negative cable path for the way I'm planning to use it.

- m
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
I mounted my cut off switch in that position as well
358356


I also installed a separate toggle switch isolator for the clock and ECM. I wired the main isolator as battery positive. This was not my smartest move. Both terminals at the rear of the isolator are difficult to insulate. Therefore with the isolator turned off, I still have one of large terminals of the isolator mounted behind the engine that remains at battery positive potential all the time. I feel it would be very easy to forget it is there and short a spanner or something like that to it inadvertently. this could be an absolute disaster if I shorted it to my steel fuel lines or braided clutch hose which run nearby. I can't believe I installed it this way being that I have 30 years experience as an industrial sparky. It is one of my projects to change to negative switching asap.

Regards, Nigel
 

·
Not a waxer
Joined
·
11,763 Posts
...one weird thing that I encountered is that initially when trying to use the hazards, only the right front and rear lights blinked. i jostled some of the connections behind the dash and have both sides blinking now. not sure what was wrong. again, i'm using the signal dynamics module with a momentary push button switch under the dash. I have the outpt on this DPDT switch spliced into the left and right input wires on the module. Kleiner? any thoughts or have you ever encountered this?
No, as we've discussed I set up things just a bit differently when using S.D. modules however your method with the DPDT switch should (and apparently does) work. Are your left and right outputs from the module made up using crimps which may have been loose? Make sure everything is tight and if it continues to work run with it!

Jeff
 

·
Not a waxer
Joined
·
11,763 Posts
Oh, by the way RE: the master power switch. I always suggest that you install a low amperage (10 amp or less) self resetting circuit breaker between the two terminals. This will keep power to computer memory, clock, radio memory, charger ports, etc and allow you to energize things like courtesy lights when it is shut off but in the event of a major electrical malfunction or if you try to start the car without turning it on the breaker will trip.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter #374 (Edited)
All splices were crimped with butt joints and heat shrinked. The wires to the push button momentary switch are secured by screws. Regardless, everything is working now. Thanks for the pointer on the circuit breaker.
is this something you had in mind?

No, as we've discussed I set up things just a bit differently when using S.D. modules however your method with the DPDT switch should (and apparently does) work. Are your left and right outputs from the module made up using crimps which may have been loose? Make sure everything is tight and if it continues to work run with it!

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter #376
That would work!

Jeff
Jeff, what gauge wire do you recommend running between the cut off and the breaker? Surely I wouldn't need 4g would i?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter #378
Attempting the infamous Wade's door latch mod. Seems straightforward, but I managed to strip the carriage bolt with a lock nut. Turns out I probably didn't grind down the pivot bearing enough and my washer was hitting that. I was seeing some space between the latch/ washer and was trying to take up the gap by tightening the nut. Time to go back to the hardware store. I also elected to shorten rather than eliminate the spring behind the bolt as I felt it kept the bolt fully forward. When I took it out, it seemed that the bolt could potentially slide back into the housing and I didn't want to chance the door opening while cruising down the highway.
358417
358418
358419
358420
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter #380
For future reference leave the spring behind the plunger alone but remove the coil spring that connects to the lever and throw it away.

Jeff
Shoot. I took your recent FB comment the other way and thought you meant the plunger spring was expendable. I'll look for a new spring.
 
361 - 380 of 414 Posts
Top