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Not a waxer
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"Insert long sigh here "
Discover that my timing cover has a stripped bolt hole. Need to replace it now, which means removing the balancer, cover, and getting new gaskets and front seal...
Just put a Helicoil in the stripped hole/holes. No need to disassemble anything.

https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5521-5-Coarse-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRDUU/ref=asc_df_B0002SRDUU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312350891162&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15001520918582743104&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016564&hvtargid=pla-448759604626&psc=1

Easy peasey!

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #302
first start doesn't seem too far away - even whispering that to myself was all it took to bring on a set back, sometimes monumental, but always expensive. 😬

Best of luck, Nigel
I know, right? Totally jinxed myself
 

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"Insert long sigh here "
Discover that my timing cover has a stripped bolt hole. Need to replace it now, which means removing the balancer, cover, and getting new gaskets and front seal. Contemplating switching to an electric water pump. Also discovered that ARP water pump bolts don't fit current set up without modification. Frustrating night.
Hang in there. My garage visit got postponed when a hose let go under my sink at 2am Saturday morning. The entire weekend got shifted over to addressing the water damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #304
Picking seats up from upholsterer later today. Custom dash and trans tunnel to follow. He does good work.
 

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First Time Builder
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I'm wanting to mount my dash without screws through the face of the dash. been looking at edwards's set up with the angled pieces of metal on the backside that screws into the 3/4 " tubing. I've noticed that the dash does not line up with the 3/4" curved frame. how much frame should be showing on the sides? and should the dash be even with the frame in the middle in terms of height? also where should I curve the dash forward? and i'm assuming this bend is done after the dash is covered, right?
Chewy, another think to note. I used edwardB’s method and thought I accounted for everything, but missed one. I thought I accounted for enough spacing in between the dash and the 3/4” crossbar to accommodate the dash covering but I needed more space. As a result I had to redrill my holes in the angle pieces in order to mount the dash after I installed the covering.


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Discussion Starter #307
Chewy, another think to note. I used edwardB’s method and thought I accounted for everything, but missed one. I thought I accounted for enough spacing in between the dash and the 3/4” crossbar to accommodate the dash covering but I needed more space. As a result I had to redrill my holes in the angle pieces in order to mount the dash after I installed the covering.


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I decided that it would be easier to mount the dash from the front, at least for me. decided on some 1/4" stainless rounded head socket head screws with rivnuts in the hoop frame. better looking than stock screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #308
Ok, for those following on another thread, I've been working on my dash, trying to figure out how to attach to hoop frame and what switches I want. Pic shows my idea for PS dash. Doing custom dash, and the red lines represent raised closed- cell foam under leather giving a 3D element. Wanted something to break up the box- less dash. Decided on installing some aluminum L brackets on the hoop to attach dash with velcro. Bought nitto g2 555s today as well, 245/45/17 fronts and 315/35/17 rears.
 

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Ok, for those following on another thread, I've been working on my dash, trying to figure out how to attach to hoop frame and what switches I want. Pic shows my idea for PS dash. Doing custom dash, and the red lines represent raised closed- cell foam under leather giving a 3D element. Wanted something to break up the box- less dash. Decided on installing some aluminum L brackets on the hoop to attach dash with velcro. Bought nitto g2 555s today as well, 245/45/17 fronts and 315/35/17 rears.
For the velcro, check out a piece of 3m dual lock. Amazon has it pretty cheap. It's very strong, holding the top of my dash. I just bought those exact tires, love the look and rated very highly!
 

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Discussion Starter #310
For the velcro, check out a piece of 3m dual lock. Amazon has it pretty cheap. It's very strong, holding the top of my dash. I just bought those exact tires, love the look and rated very highly!
thanks
actually already picked some up from amazon per another member's suggestion.
planning on having mike's under dash panel as well to help stabilize the dash.
I saw someone else use piano hinges to attach the under dash panel to the frame, making dash removal easier. I might copy this idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #311
Like others before me, I do not trust the screws that came with the heater. I actually stripped one of the plastic holes trying to mock up the heater. I ended up making an aluminum plate with M4-.70 rivnuts in it. Gluing it to the inside using some silicone. Screws are holding plate snugly until silicone dries.
 

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Discussion Starter #312
Installed heater. Brackets I made are holding tight and secure. Lower holes extremely hard to access, so I cut off a couple screws and used them like threaded studs and secured using washers and nuts. Mocking up mechanical throttle now
 

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Discussion Starter #313 (Edited)
I got my tires a few weeks ago and had them mounted on the rims this week. I was able to get the wheels on the car and it's starting to take shape! I wanted to get the wheels/tires on before finishing up the brake lines to make sure none of the flex lines were rubbing on the tires at full lock. I found that the PS flex line was rubbing but this was fixed by adjusting the bend in the line where it connects to the rigid brake line at the F panel. I also discovered that the DS wheel rubs barely on the bottom of the F panel at full turn. I tried bending the panel slightly inward which helped but also anticipate that once the car is off the jacks, this shouldn't be an issue as the panel angles a bit away from the tires as you go up the panel. I'm anticipating more clearance once I drop the car and it's compressing the shocks. Rough alignment looks pretty good at this point, but I'll get out the string and measure again and make some adjustments to the inner tie rods.
I also took off the heater so that I could apply a bead of RTV along the bottom of the square opening to get a better seal. FYI, it's likely a lot easier to put on the firewall grommets for the heater core BEFORE installing the heater. It was a bit of a struggle, but I was able to get them on.
 

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Discussion Starter #314
Bled my brakes today. I was a bit worried as I have had some issues bleeding brakes in the past on another project. I used a pressure bleeding cap for my CNC reservoirs, pumped up to ~5psi, and didn't bench bled MCs. Ended up using a bit less than a quart of DOT 3/4 fluid to bleed all 4 calipers. Had a small leak at the rear T junction that took a bit to tighten. Good firm pedal feel with no fading. This is the first time I've tried pressure bleeding. Used the Mityvac suction method plus the old fashioned pumping of brake pedal while someone was opening the valve in the past and the pressure bleed is by far the most straightforward, single person method. we'll see if the car will actually stop once I get it running.
 

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Those cup holders may be too far forward and will be under the dash.
Put the dash panel in place before you commit to that spot.



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I have seen people offset on either side of the frame.

I also have seen people that go as far back and possible in the the upper part of the tunnel and it was fine.

Make sure you consider the forward shift handle.

I bet a water bottle or a can of soda or small coffee cup would be ok under the dash anyway. Though you may have to tilt then to get them in. IDK I'm sure the other guys have way better ideas. I was going to do this too the one thing I remembered was to make sure the holders was as far to rear as possible.

7 in from the top of the tunnel panel to bottom of dash.

20191116_100122.jpg


Here is a good shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #319
Those cup holders may be too far forward and will be under the dash.
Put the dash panel in place before you commit to that spot.



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Thanks for the comment. I'll throw on the dash and check. This was the only place I was able to put them side by side without cutting that diagonal frame support in the trans tunnel.
 

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Discussion Starter #320
Got dash back from my upholsterer. He did a great job. I wanted something to break up the blank canvas on the PS dash since I don't have a glovebox. I think we came up with a nice design feature. Found out that my light switch knob won't catch and will see if FF will send me a new one.
 

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