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Discussion Starter #281
started work on the wiring. main harness seems pretty straightforward. have rear harness in place as well. I realized that the in tank fuel pump clip wasn't seating fully down onto the pins. I would not have noticed this expect for the fact that the fuel sender clip pushed down further than the fuel pump clip. after careful inspection, the connections on the inside of the clip were slightly off center, not allowing the pins to seat into the contact opening. this took some time to figure out before it fully seated down. I'm glad I was able to catch this now, and not later when the fuel pump would be intermittently cutting out on me.

I also started putting the engine back together. I got a one piece oil gasket from moroso (93161) and got the oil pan back on. also put the balancer back on and torqued to spec. when i was reinstalling the oil dipstick tube, it wouldn't fully seat down against the block. I tried tapping in with a plastic hammer but didn't want to bend the end of the tube. I then placed an adjustable wrench against the flair in the tube to try to tap it down. no luck. then i used a screwdriver on the flair to tap it down. moved a few millimeters. started bending the flair and ultimately cracking the tube. Now i have a section of tube stuck in the block that I need to knock back out, requiring me to remove the oil pan again.
SMH...it's always something, isn't it?

I'm pretty excited to finally get the engine back together. fly wheel, clutch and transmission mounting next, and then I reckon i'll be ready to install the drivetrain. still waiting on offset bushings from Breeze to redo my steering rack but I feel like i'm making some progress.
 

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Man Cave Master Craftsman
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What color are you using to paint your engine? it kinda looks like Chevy orange

Nice work on your build

Saul
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Work on that tube w/ small tools and plenty of patience. I am thinking you may be able to remove it w/o removing the pan.
 

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Ah orange sacrilegious! Ford blue!!!

Just kidding it looks awesome! I love the orange! Good job.

I took a lot of satisfaction out of painting my block and oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #285
Block is a Ford red. Paint is from VHT. And Craig's, too late, took pan off already.
 

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Discussion Starter #288
Before you put that pan back on, how deep is it? Anything more than about 7" will be below the frame rails. Photos make it look like it may be more than that.

Jeff
Thanks for catching this and spending more of my money. Do you have a pan you'd recommend for a 289 SBF?
 

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Got new dash. They previously sent a RHD dash. Is there supposed to be a tab/ bend at the bottom?
Yes, there is. You're not having much luck with this are you?

I put a reply RE: oil pans in your other thread.

Jeff
 

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...it's always something, isn't it?...
Yes it is. Somedays the puzzle is satisfying, and others you throw your tool box out into the driveway.

But at first start, all those trials & tribulations go away. Keep at it!


John
 

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SMH...it's always something, isn't it?
So true. My current something is the caliper mountings on the rear axle. I'm going to have to drain the brand new diff fluid out so I can pull both axles and flip the caliper mounts to the front of the wheels. I feel like I'm getting smarter about how I approach my build, but lessons learned on one system don't necessarily translate to another.

I will be measuring my oil pan depth before I put my engine back together though!

Foster
 

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So true. My current something is the caliper mountings on the rear axle. I'm going to have to drain the brand new diff fluid out so I can pull both axles and flip the caliper mounts to the front of the wheels. I feel like I'm getting smarter about how I approach my build, but lessons learned on one system don't necessarily translate to another.

I will be measuring my oil pan depth before I put my engine back together though!

Foster
Consider jacking up the axle end you are working on. The lube will run to the opposite side and save you draining.
 

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Discussion Starter #294
So true. My current something is the caliper mountings on the rear axle. I'm going to have to drain the brand new diff fluid out so I can pull both axles and flip the caliper mounts to the front of the wheels. I feel like I'm getting smarter about how I approach my build, but lessons learned on one system don't necessarily translate to another.

I will be measuring my oil pan depth before I put my engine back together though!

Foster
you must have the older caliper brackets. the ones i have are "c" shaped and fit over the spindles without having to remove them.
 

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Consider jacking up the axle end you are working on. The lube will run to the opposite side and save you draining.
It is my understanding that I have to remove the diff cover and pull the c-clips in order to get the axles out. Am I missing a simpler, keep my new diff fluid in the pumpkin, approach?
 

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It is my understanding that I have to remove the diff cover and pull the c-clips in order to get the axles out. Am I missing a simpler, keep my new diff fluid in the pumpkin, approach?
If you have the 8.8" Ford axle, it does use the C clips on the end of the axle to retain it. ,,,but I would think you can change the brake rotor and caliper without pulling the axle. May be wrong, not knowing what your brake set up is.
 

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It is my understanding that I have to remove the diff cover and pull the c-clips in order to get the axles out. Am I missing a simpler, keep my new diff fluid in the pumpkin, approach?
Nope. With your setup you'll have to remove the axles.

If you have the 8.8" Ford axle, it does use the C clips on the end of the axle to retain it. ,,,but I would think you can change the brake rotor and caliper without pulling the axle. May be wrong, not knowing what your brake set up is.
Foster wants to change out the caliper mounting brackets to relocate the calipers to the front of the axle rather than the rear. Some aftermarket brackets are "C" shaped and can be removed without pulling the axle shafts however I've seen his photos and know that Foster's are OEM which will require taking out the shafts.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #298
progress, at last

OK, for those following some of my peripheral threads, some progress has been made.
I did get a K901 Kevko pan from another member the other day. cleaned it up and put on a new coat of paint. Discovered that I did need a rear sump pick up stud to support the associated oil pick up and a new dipstick that threads into the pan. Plugged existing dipstick hole in the front of the engine using an extra 3/8" socket head bolt that I cut down to around 1.5" and then RTV'd it in place. Ordered universal dipstick, pick up stud support and a magnetic oil pan plug from Kevko. Need to get a nut to secure the pick up to the stud. Will be "claying" the bottom of the pickup against the oil pan bottom to make sure I'm not too close or too far from the bottom.

I also got my offset bushings from Breeze the other day. Put everything together as described. I had to file some of the existing holes in the frame tabs because they were causing the rack to pinch/bind too much. I swear I took the rack on and off a half dozen times before I figured out how to best adjust the bushings. The most annoying part was having to loosen up the upper and lower steering shaft pillow bearings and the spline connector each time to get enough slack to move the rack out again. Instructions state to put everything on, including the shims/spacers and then adjust the bushings. The only problem I found is that with the bolts in place, it was too tight to rotate the bushings. the aluminum around the slots where the screwdriver goes were starting to bend and I didn't want to break anything. I found the best way was to make the adjustments on the DS first, then put in the PS bolt and verify the PS distance. with the shims in, it was way too tight for me to make any adjustments. I got it w/in 1/16" and am happy about that. I put the outer tie rods on using a string method for rough initial alignment.

working on wiring now as well. fuse box is in and harnesses are being run throughout the car. I was going to wait on the EFI wiring until after the engine is in.

Still waiting on a local friend to help me reassemble my engine (intake, rockers, water pump, etc), but he's having a baby in a month, so that might be delayed a bit. once that's done, I reckon I'll be almost ready to mate the clutch and trans and drop everything in. then I can run the rest of my flex fuel and return lines (wanted to make sure length was exact). first start doesn't seem too far away!
 

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Discussion Starter #299
"Insert long sigh here "
Discover that my timing cover has a stripped bolt hole. Need to replace it now, which means removing the balancer, cover, and getting new gaskets and front seal. Contemplating switching to an electric water pump. Also discovered that ARP water pump bolts don't fit current set up without modification. Frustrating night.
 

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first start doesn't seem too far away - even whispering that to myself was all it took to bring on a set back, sometimes monumental, but always expensive. 😬

Best of luck, Nigel
 
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