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Egchewy
I just ran across this thread. I cant keep up with these forums. I mostly cruise the other forum to keep things simple on my end.

Great thread. Thanks for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter #202
Ended up cutting tab off my bracket and attaching it to the inside of the 3/4 tube. Original holes drilled for the reservoir ended up not working, leaving the caps off the reservoirs just above the tube. I ended up flipping the mount over, using a couple of the original holes and drilling 2 more. As recommended, I drilled through and through the 3/4 tube and secured it with nuts. I originally wanted to put 3 bolts in but was worried about my brake lines being in the way and just settled on 2. Plenty strong and stable. I did snap a bolt trying to secure the reservoir and will need to get a new one. All hardware was leftover from the extra stuff that came with the pedal box so it cost nothing except my time to refabricate the bracket.

Any recommendations on how to run the flexible lines to the MCs? Front of footbox is really thick. I'm assuming the opening immediately adjacent is for wiring. 20190517_113717_1558109271139.jpg
 

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Don't let that brake line rub against the nut. If you need to, use a piece of rubber fuel line to wrap around the brake line between it and the nut (and add that item to your annual maintenance checklist). If it were me, I'd reroute the brake line to under the 3/4" tube.

Yes, the hole in the front of the foot box is for wiring.


John
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Don't let that brake line rub against the nut. If you need to, use a piece of rubber fuel line to wrap around the brake line between it and the nut (and add that item to your annual maintenance checklist). If it were me, I'd reroute the brake line to under the 3/4" tube.

Yes, the hole in the front of the foot box is for wiring.


John
thanks for the input. there's a gap there that's not shown in the pic. i'll wrap the brake line with a piece of fuel line as you recommended.
 

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Chewy said

"Any recommendations on how to run the flexible lines to the MCs? Front of footbox is really thick. I'm assuming the opening immediately adjacent is for wiring."

I was nervous about going through the front too. I was thinking side. I'm sure you can make that nice. I thought too the engine is going to be right there also not sure if that was going to be a factor.

I went through the front using the plastic connector.

I got a good titanium impact ready 1/2 bit. I used a regular drill until it started to break through.

If you don't have a handle on the drill that thing going to rip your hand off at that point and bust your knuckles into that new bracket you just made. Plus bend you thumb on the other hand. I have the cuts and bruise to account for it. Use gloves and glasses.

I stopped. Filed out some and used a impact drill to finish opening that all up. The connectors went in perfect. It's a tight fit on the other side to tighten everything.

I left slack in the tubes to make sure I can push them away. Think about how your going to access the hose clamps and position them so you can get to them after the car is built.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #206
Chewy said

"Any recommendations on how to run the flexible lines to the MCs? Front of footbox is really thick. I'm assuming the opening immediately adjacent is for wiring."

I was nervous about going through the front too. I was thinking side. I'm sure you can make that nice. I thought too the engine is going to be right there also not sure if that was going to be a factor.

I went through the front using the plastic connector.

I got a good titanium impact ready 1/2 bit. I used a regular drill until it started to break through.

If you don't have a handle on the drill that thing going to rip your hand off at that point and bust your knuckles into that new bracket you just made. Plus bend you thumb on the other hand. I have the cuts and bruise to account for it. Use gloves and glasses.

I stopped. Filed out some and used a impact drill to finish opening that all up. The connectors went in perfect. It's a tight fit on the other side to tighten everything.

I left slack in the tubes to make sure I can push them away. Think about how your going to access the hose clamps and position them so you can get to them after the car is built.

Jason
Plastic connector?
 

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Discussion Starter #208
It took 4 sets of hands and 2 hours, but we finally got the rear end on. We were able to get one side in, but the other control arm just wouldn't line up to get the bolt on. It almost seemed like we needed to twist the control arm a bit in the tab to line it up. I ended up loosening the bolts holding the control arms to the axle and playing with the height with a jack to finally line up the holes with the bushing. We also installed the upper link, reinstalled the pan hard bar, and rear shocks. I'm missing the nut to attach the bolt from the panhard to the tube, so another trip to the hardware store. Starting to look like a car!
 

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Yeah that rear axle install is a tough one. It's awkward at best and that thing is heavy enough I always think what parts of me could get pinched or chopped if it got away. It doesn't balance worth a d--n on the floor jack pad does it?
 

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I used a transmission jack. This worked perfect I ended up leaving it on the jack for awhile too.

I was able to install it by myself and line everything up to easily. The jack will make putting the transmission on the engine easier too.

I suggest renting or buying one if you have to do that again and or need to put a transmission on.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #212
yes, transmission jack would have been much easier that a floor jack.
we had the rear end on a jack with a person in each side but ended up using jack stands to hold it up. the rear end kept wanting to tip forward on the jack.
we got the DS control arm in the tabs and bolted no problem. the issue we had was on the PS. first, there was about a 1.5" distance that we had to account for to line up the arm w/ the tabs. then trying to get the bolt holes to line up was impossible. I ended up removing the bolt attaching the control arm to the axle, installing the arm to the frame, and then trying to reattach the arm back to the axle. we toyed with the idea of making a tapered bolt to hammer through the frame tabs to line things up, but then couldn't figure a way to get that bolt out since there's no room to hammer it back out from the inside of the frame.
anyway, everything worked out, just took a bit of thinking.

Not sure if I'll need a transmission jack for this build since it gets installed with the engine from above.
 

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"Not sure if I'll need a transmission jack for this build since it gets installed with the engine from above.[/QUOTE]"

I was referring to attaching the transmission to the engine before you install the drivetran in the chassis.

I already tried once to put the transmission on my engine and I could not make everything work quite right with a regular Jack and it was very awkward. The transmission Jack is way more stable so that you can do it by yourself if you need to. Just what I encountered so far.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #214
Installed pan hard bar today. Hardware kit came with 4 0.375" spacers, 1 0.25"spacer, and 2 washers/ shims. I was able to get the PS attached to the shock mount as described in the manual with a shim on the rear side, and one 0.25"spacer and 0.375"x2 on the front. On the DS mount, I was only able to fit 0.375"x2 spacers on the front. There's no way to get the other shim in even with spreading the tabs. Any problems here?

Also drilled holes in DS footbox wall for brake lines. Apparently bought wrong grommets for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #215
Working on gas tank tonight. Got the vent, fuel level sender, and filler neck gasket installed. Lubed up the o ring for the sender unit with some white lithium grease as recommended on another thread to prevent tearing of the o ring and subsequent leaking. Still need to purchase an in-tank fuel pump and install that before running fuel and return lines. Tank straps installed on the rear as well. The openings of the straps needed to be reshaped a bit to accept the bolt. I ended up tapping it with a 4 lb sledge until the opening became more round, rather than tear drop shaped. I also included pics of panhard bar. I was only able to fit 0.375"x2 spacers in front on the DS mount. There was no way the extra shim would have fit on the rear side of the bar.
 

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That bar doesn't look right to me (but I know next to nothing about the 3-link). Wouldn't the bracket press up against the side of the rod end & prevent it from moving the way it should? Seems like you should have a spacer on each side...

Hopefully someone with actual knowledge will weigh in.


John
 

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As Rich said you need to have a spacer on each side rather than both on the same side. Looking at the photo it appears that you have the mount squeezed in a great deal...if you spread it when you reorient the spacers you might be able to fit the other shim in.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #219
As Rich said you need to have a spacer on each side rather than both on the same side. Looking at the photo it appears that you have the mount squeezed in a great deal...if you spread it when you reorient the spacers you might be able to fit the other shim in.

Jeff
I had to spread it to initially get the spacers in. I don't think i'd be able spread it enough to get a shim in as well, at least not without really deforming the tabs. I'll reposition the spacers so that there's one on either side of the bar. on the opposite side (PS), I followed the manual and put all the spacers on the front (0.375" x2 and 0.25"x1) with a washer/shim on the rear side of the bar. I'm assuming this is correct, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #220
fuel system delivery

starting to consider fuel system at this point.
planning on using intank pump and either Holley or FiTech EFI.
I'm running a 289 K code SBF engine, so ~300hp.
after doing some research, i'll likely get a stock fuel pump bracket for my gas tank and either a 155-190LPH pump. Seems like enough for my engine requirements.
Do I need a specific fuel filter before my EFI or will the stock filter provided in complete kit be sufficient?
 
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