Factory Five Racing Forum banner
Cancel

First roadster build

101474 Views 770 Replies 43 Participants Last post by  JRCuz, 
egchewy
5
I started this thread under the new members intro, so I wanted to move it here instead. Here are some pics so far

Attachments

See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 2
1 - 20 of 771 Posts
phileas_fogg
Welcome!

Which pedal box are you using? 'Cuz the front foot box panel you've got cleco'ed into place is for the OEM Mustang. If you're going with the Wilwood pedal box, you'll find the proper front panel in the box of all the other aluminum pieces.


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
RobW said:
Egchewy,

I am not much further along than you and at my rate of progress will probably be way behind in no time. Just about each step so far has been met with frustration of some sort. Tabs too narrow, too wide, UCAs incorrect, etc... After reading several build threads, mock up your work and ask for opinions before finalizing. Everything that you are going through has already been figured out by someone else. Learn from their trial and errors. Before modifying something, ask questions. Somehow, I was lucky with the ball joints. They threaded right on without issue. I had read that putting in the freezer helps. Mine were in my quite cold garage offered no resistance. I did use a wire brush on the threads first to get any crud off but had no issue. Once I got the "looks good" responses to pictures I posted on the other forum, I loosened and added thread locker and tightened on my bench vice.

I am going the donor route. My next step is to prep my donor rear end and set up the 3 link.

Good luck!

Rob
Click to expand...
Solid advice right there.


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
I'm with Craig. Definitely get a second reservoir. CNC's part number is 1482.


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
egchewy said:
...The template for the heater is also off, needing to be moved by about 1/4" in superior and lateral directions. The blue marker is the ideal location of the holes while the black shows the holes from the template.
Click to expand...
That's not at all unusual. Glad you caught that before cutting the holes.


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
On earlier versions of the kit, the F5-provided gas pedal could get stuck in the wide open throttle position. I seem to recall that the top of the pedal could be forced past the 3/4" brace, so check yours carefully.

If you have that problem, the solution is to drill a fourth hole in the pedal & mount the throttle cable to this. Then cut off the top of the throttle pedal at the 1st hole.


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
egchewy said:
Ok. Just checked pedal clearance. Looks like there's at least 1/4" interference with the 3/4" cross member. I was pushing pretty firmly on the pedal and don't think there's any way it'll slip under the bar and get stuck. I could also straighten the angle a bit on the pedal to create more interference or place a bolt through the crossmember so the pedal will hit it earlier. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Your leg can generate a surprising amount of force. If it were mine, I'd trim the pedal. Or get the Russ Thompson pedal (which is what I actually did). :grin2:


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
Don't let that brake line rub against the nut. If you need to, use a piece of rubber fuel line to wrap around the brake line between it and the nut (and add that item to your annual maintenance checklist). If it were me, I'd reroute the brake line to under the 3/4" tube.

Yes, the hole in the front of the foot box is for wiring.


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
That bar doesn't look right to me (but I know next to nothing about the 3-link). Wouldn't the bracket press up against the side of the rod end & prevent it from moving the way it should? Seems like you should have a spacer on each side...

Hopefully someone with actual knowledge will weigh in.


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
egchewy said:
...Do I need a specific fuel filter before my EFI or will the stock filter provided in complete kit be sufficient?
Click to expand...
Read the documentation for the two EFI systems under consideration; they will each have a spec (my Holley Terminator requires a 10u filter). Then compare the spec to the one for your fuel filter (for my kit, F5 provided a 15u filter). Then you'll know.

If you find that you have to replace the filter, then you have some choices based on your fuel lines. If you use the 5/16" feed and 1/4" return, you can buy a filter with 5/16" in/out quick connects & use the F5-provided hose & fittings. If you upgrade the hard lines to 3/8" feed & return (in anticipation of later upgrading the motor such that it needs them), you have more components to buy. I recommend calling Mark at Breeze Automotive & discussing your options if you go the 3/8" route. (You'll probably want to call him any way when you start figuring out the engine compartment plumbing & how to get from your hard lines to AN6 soft lines.)

For more ideas (& the long version of this story), take a look at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32338-EFI-in-tank-fuel-system.


John

NOTE: The Wix 33097 is a 10u filter with 5/16" in/out quick connects.
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
Don't cut the wires. They're actually springs that go inside the brake housing & keep the pads from moving around vertically. You want both springs inside the housing, and the opposite end of the pad hooks under some tabs on the housing. It takes some fiddling, but you'll get it.


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
egchewy said:
...it's always something, isn't it?...
Click to expand...
Yes it is. Somedays the puzzle is satisfying, and others you throw your tool box out into the driveway.

But at first start, all those trials & tribulations go away. Keep at it!


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
Lots of folks have removed & reinstalled their drive train on a completed car. So with some forethought & bringing the hoist in from the side, the radiator will not be a hindrance.

If you do bring the hoist in from the front, I found that the limit to forward movement was the steering rack. The radiator was not a factor.


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
egchewy said:
I might be mistaken, but doesn't the radiator sit in front of the steering rack?
Click to expand...
Yes; you're right of course. I'm not sure what I was thinking.
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
I seem to recall reading that heavy-footed folks have bent the steel plate where you've mounted the carriage bolt. Almost certainly not an issue on the street, but if you track the car or do autocross, you may want to consider beefing that plate up.


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
Congratulations! There's nothing like a first start, especially if you have to overcome some last-minute obstacle!


John
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
How many miles gokarting? It depends on your state. In TN you could get a tag just by filling out some forms; I know a guy there who gokarted for nearly 150 miles! Here in VA you have to have a completed car to get tags, so gokarting is illegal. But I may have heard of a guy in my neighborhood who put 15 miles on the odometer just toodling around.


John
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
phileas_fogg
egchewy said:
... Is there anything else I need to consider before riveting on the wall? Can I easily access the DS windshield post with the wall on? ...
Click to expand...
I see you have a throttle stop. If you're considering a clutch stop as well, do it before you permanently install the outside wall.

For the windshield post, you'll have the body on & it won't matter if you've got the outer foot box wall installed or not. I found the easiest way to access the windshield bolts was to reach up under the dash and over the 2" square framing & fuse panel. For me, that was easier than trying to drop the fuse panel.

When it's time to install the windshield, drill the windshield post holes 27/64” diameter and tap each to accept the 1/2”-13 bolt. After you’re happy with the fit, then put a nut on the back side of the bolt to secure the post. This makes test fitting MUCH MUCH easier.
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
egchewy said:
Is this possible w/ the body on
Click to expand...
Yes; I did it using a length of 2"x4" and a hand sledge. Just slip the 2"x4" between the wheel and the fender lip a give the upper & lower arms a good whack or three. For reference, I had to move the DS support 3/4"-1". The PS was fine.

egchewy said:
Also, to measure the lip of the wheel well to the shock tower, I'm assuming that I need to remove the front wheels, correct?
Click to expand...
I used a steel ruler & did not have to remove my wheels. If you're pressed for clearance, just jack the car up a little; ride height is not going to change the body position relative to the shock's upper bolt.

egchewy said:
does anyone have a good source for bushings to go inside the 3/4" stainless tubes that fit in the "finishline" style front grommets to take out the slop between the bolt and the tube?
Click to expand...
According to Edwards's build log, use McMaster-Carr

egchewy said:
Also, looking at the PS windshield opening in the body, I can see the bulb seal and small firewall piece that goes on the far end of the PS firewall. is this normal?
Click to expand...
Nope; you need to trim the aluminum & notch the bulb seal so that the windshield post will fit. While you're doing, look at the DS windshield post slot as well. I found that the aluminum needed trimming so that the post could fit flush with the steel mounting plate.

As SC210Ford says, the body is going to go on and off a bunch more times.


John
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
phileas_fogg
Regarding the rear splash panels: yes; I attached them through the trunk side aluminum but a little farther back than what you've indicated in red. I used #10-32 riv-nuts so the splash guards could be easily removed if necessary.


John

IMG_4822 by jhsitton, on Flickr
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
phileas_fogg
Hey Chewy,

Don't lose sleep about the side screws cracking your windshield. As you can see when you look into the frame, the bottom of the metal channel of the frame will keep the screw from creating a pressure point on the glass. The screws to worry about are the ones at the top for your sun visors; there's no metal between the tip of the screw & the glass (same for the originality guys installing a center windshield support).

Go ahead & get half a dozen of the slightly longer screws for the top hole of the post. You can use a grinder to slightly shorten the screws a tiny bit at a time; with several sacrificial screws you can tailor the length to just enough to catch & minimize any pressure on the channel.

Todd at Build School gave me some great advice for this phase of the build: "Take your time; this is not a job to tackle after a bad day at work." Follow his advice & you'll be just fine.


John

EDIT: One other tip - you might have to cut the steel insert in two midway between the top & next-to-top holes. This gives you the "wiggle" room to get that top screw started.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 2
1 - 20 of 771 Posts
Factory Five Racing Forum
A forum community dedicated to Factory Five owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, conversions, modifications, troubleshooting and drivetrain. We discuss MK4, GTM, 818, Type 65 coupe, roadsters, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Factory Five Roadsters 2006 Roadster Archives - Read Only FFR Type 65 Coupe Factory Five GTM Forum Parts For Sale / Wanted
Top