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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally did it. I have been on the fence about what to do for an engine since before I started my build. After 1 summer with the engine that came with the unassembled kit I finally made a decision and ordered my new block yesterday. I was really torn between a 9.5" or a 8.2". I ended up ordering the 8.2" 4.125" bore Dart. Now I can start saving for a rotating assembly. Pretty sure I will be going with Scat for that. I have heard a lot of bad things about Eagle. I will probably call Gordon when I get ready for a cam and heads but your input is always welcome. It is mainly a street car so good street manners are important but when the go fast pedal gets pushed it needs to be violent.
 

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SHP?

I like Scat better than Eagle too. Check the crank carefully though....I used a Scat forged steel crank in my Dart SHP 347 and wiped out 2 thrust bearings because Scat didn't do a good job of polishing the thrust surface on the #3 main. If yours looks like a starburst, polish it! :beer:
 

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SCAT forged ultra light crank
Steel H-beam rods
Ross pistons
Teflon coated skirts
Brodix heads
Stack injection
 

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I beam rods are better for road racing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I beam rods are better for road racing.
I probably will not be doing any road racing. I would like to try auto x and I am sure some trips to the strip will be a necessity but like I said mainly a street car. I guess I want it all or as close as I can get. Good drivability on the street, all the power I could want, durability and good enough mileage that at $4.00 a gallon for premium I can still drive it.

That shouldn't be to much to ask for should it?
 

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Nope, not to much to ask. Your engine package will work really nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nope, not to much to ask. Your engine package will work really nice.
Glad to hear! I can't wait to get the short block assembled so I can call you and get started on the top end!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thinking about ordering my rotating assembly next week, Scat fully forged. My favorite machine shop is closing at the end of the year and I want to get the short block done before then. I am planning on 0.00" deck, flat tops with 4 cc valve reliefs. Just trying to plan ahead, I am running shorty's and j-tubes with an RPM AIR GAP manifold. Will these parts work with the head and cam combo that you have in mind for what I am looking for? I was hoping to reuse the headers and Manifold, but if I can't, I can't.
 

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Give me a call on Monday. I can get you a very good deal on the rotating assy. You will really want to port match the intake. I have done a ton of dyno work on these engines with different intakes. On a pump gas 347 with a moderate cam I made 400rwhp in my roadster using a ported RPM intake and a 1" open spacer. Gave a really nice flat torque curve and a power curve that didn't drop off until 6400 revs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just got off the phone with Gordon. 363 rotating assembly is ordered. I can't wait until I can order my top end!
 

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SHP?

I like Scat better than Eagle too. Check the crank carefully though....I used a Scat forged steel crank in my Dart SHP 347 and wiped out 2 thrust bearings because Scat didn't do a good job of polishing the thrust surface on the #3 main. If yours looks like a starburst, polish it! :beer:
FWIW, the thrust bearing needs clearanced. You should not just slap it in. If you do, there will virtually be zero crank end play. BTW, nice block dude.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
FWIW, the thrust bearing needs clearanced. You should not just slap it in. If you do, there will virtually be zero crank end play. BTW, nice block dude.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.com App

Thanks for the heads up. I will have the machinist check that when it goes for final honing, balancing and ring gap filing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Is there a good site online to download all of the specs and clearances so I can check everything as I assemble the short block? Rotating assembly should be here from Gordon on Monday or Tuesday. SFI aluminum flywheel and damper from Summit should be here on Tuesday. Then everything can go to the machine shop. Hoping to start assembling the short block sometime in December.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Gordon,

Starting to think about the top end. I might be a little ahead of myself. I don't even have my rotating assy yet, hopefully this week. we talked a couple of times and you said with a 1" spacer and port matching I should be able to put 400 hp to the wheels with my current Air Gap RPM manifold. You also said I could get 550 from it wondering what my options are and the costs involved. 550 would be awesome, I am assuming that is at the flywheel. I want it to remain streetable and still be able to pass the occasional service station.
 

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It really depends on how much maintenance you want to do. To get the 550 flywheel we will need to run a solid roller cam and super victor intake and a larger cylinder head. We can get 500 pretty easily with a hydraulic roller and properly matched heads.
Give me a call and we can talk over all the options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Talked to Gordon today about the top end, I am pretty stoked. The rotating assy. should be here any day so the short block should be done some time in January. We talked about all the options for this engine and it sounds like RHS 200cc heads, stage 5.5 cam, Victor Jr and a 750 QF. I sure hope Santa is good to me this year!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Just curious Gordon, what intake gaskets do you recommend for my combination and should the heads and intake be port matched to the gasket? Hoping the heads show up next week! One other question. would you recommend the FFR 4 into 1 headers? I am currently running Mustang shorty's with j-pipes. Or is there a better alternative?
 

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The Felpro 1262 works pretty good or another similar sized gasket. Head should be there next week.
The J pipes will kill a lot of power. Yes the 4 into 4's or my exhaust system would work much better.
 
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