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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

The reason we mounted the Bilstein's upside-down and had to space the heim away from the hat was to clear the old style FFR and Forte 'non-drop' LCA cross piece.

The new FFR Koni shocks have an integrated heim-hat at the rod end so we can't run a spacer. When went to install mine, it quickly became apparent that there wasn't enough clearance because of the beefy Koni design. (Something we wanted!)

Short summary. I have the old style LCAs and my FFR Koni's don't fit. I just called Mike Forte and his new style LCAs (that have been in service for awhile now) will work so I ordered a new set. Thanks Mike!

My Tubular LCA's and Bilsteins are going to be in the classifieds probably late next week and if you're going to run that setup, it should be a good deal.

I'm not mad, I sort of knew it was going to be an issue.

I just wanted you guys to have a heads up. I'll have pictures later.

R :D

[ June 23, 2007, 05:07 PM: Message edited by: ChevyCobra - Randy J. ]
 

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How old are your front LCA arms?

Old 3850 has 2002 vintage pin drive FFR LCA's and there was interference, but we "clearanced" the Koni parts and they now fit.

LNJ
 

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Larry,

I'm pretty sure this is the difference Randy is referring to :

The early FFR tubular LCAs:




The later FFR LCAs were made with a "V" shape to clear the shocks without using a spacer:

Left: first generation FFR front lower control arm. Right: current Rev FFR front lower control arm:




Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Steve's pictures describe it perfectly. You can see the spacer that I'm referring to and both types of LCA's that FFR offered. The old style is on the left.

Larry, tell me about the 'clearancing' if you wouldn't mind!

R :D
 

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The new Fortes LCA's definately work without a problem I installed the Koni's on mine 2 weeks ago.
 

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For your information, mine are "early" FFR tubulars, and they are on the car. Drove it today.

To do it, the shock collar/base has to be "clearanced".
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks all...

Larry, I like your solution but think I'm going to do the LCA thing anyway. I don't trust myself with cutting tools! :D

R :D
 

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I will buy your old control arms if the price is right, let me know, thanks, Aron
 

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I just spent today installing the rear Koni's on my Mark II IRS. Interestingly, the Mark II manual (with ProShocks), says to install the bottom spacer with the longer spacer in front. The Koni instructions say to install the longer bottom spacer facing the rear.

It seems to work, though.
 

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I noticed the interference a few days ago myself! I cut, and rewelded the crossbrace with a "U" shaped channel to clear the spring hat.

Podus, I installed my IRS with the big spacer in the front just like the pro shocks had and it worked just fine - I wonder why they switched it? To be honest, I didn't even read the instructions!

Brian
 

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Don't I remember reading on FFRs site that the old CA design won't work with the new Konis?
 

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Larry, why did you need to compress the springs? It may become apparent to me once I get it down to set ride height, but for now I'm curious about your question...

Brian

p.s. if someone here can post pics, I'll send you some of the lower arm mods I did for the front. Sure a lot cheaper than buying new arms!
 

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Originally posted by B+L FFR 1686:
p.s. if someone here can post pics, I'll send you some of the lower arm mods I did for the front. Sure a lot cheaper than buying new arms!
Brian. Send them to me and I'll post them.
Baron
 

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I have the older tubular lower control arms from Forte. Does anyone know if there will be a problem installing the Koni's on them?

I'll find out myself in the next day or so, but if anyone knows now, I'll order new ones. :confused:
 

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Brian asked:
Larry, why did you need to compress the springs? It may become apparent to me once I get it down to set ride height, but for now I'm curious about your question...

Brian
On a pin drive IRS rear, when the springs/shocks are assembled "snug" by hand, then when you let the car down on them, there is not enough pre-load to hold up the car. You have to tighten the collar way down. I took them on and off 3 times to get to 4 1/2". After driving, the left rear is down to 4.25" so it comes off tomorrow for some more tightening. The shock comes off the car easy. Tightening is a serious chore; I have to use a spring compressor.

PS: the fronts settled to 3" ride height on one side and 3.25" on the other, so they need to be tightened a little, too. (I am shooting for 3 3/4") Piece of cake to adjust ride height in the front...lift weight off suspension w jack, adjust collar, lower, done.

Brian, does this answer your question?

Edited to clarify "pin drive IRS" per Richard Oben.

[ June 24, 2007, 06:26 PM: Message edited by: Larry N. Johnson ]
 

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My fronts settled to 3" also, starting at 3 3/4. So I added 3/4" at the adjuster, went for a drive, and now have 4 1/2. Bloody hell. I'm only taking out 1/4" this time.
I ended up using a big pair of curved-jaw channel locks to hold the sleeve from turning. Hardly made a mark.
 

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I am thinking 3/4" to the adjuster is 1.5" in ride height.

So if one wants a 1/2" change in ride height, adjust 1/4" or two turns, 720* of the collar. (The collar is 8 threads per inch)
 

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Guys, I think the reason the change isn't linear is you are shifting some weight from the front to rear (or vice-versa) when you change the shock adjustment.

So for instance in the case of Mike_C above, when he adjusted the front shock adjuster up 3/4", this shifted some of the front end weight to the rear resulting in more of a rise than just the 3/4".

That's what makes it a trial and error process. It can take a while!

Steve
 
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