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Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can I drill the bolt holes for the exhausts prior to mounting them with the body? If yes where is the best spot?
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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The position that allows the exhaust to be level with the ground and parallel to the frame is where you want to drill. For me that was up and outboard as far as possible.
 

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Depends upon whether you are using J pipes or 4 into 4's. With 4 into 4's, you have to install the side pipes and then determine (1) the "levelness" of the pipes, (2) the distance from the ground on each side, and (3) the relationship of the pipe to the frame, ie are they parallel. There is a different adjustment method for each problem. After all those parameters are set, then you can install the hangers. You can't adjust by moving the hanger placement. With the J pipes, the whole setup is much different, and I'll let someone who has used them tell you how to do it. If you want more info on the 4 into 4 setup, I'll be happy to give you a step-by-step.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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2,854 Posts
Old Guy,

I have the 4-4 set up.. Only go-carting at this point but will put body on for fitting this weekend.

Did you have to oversize the flange holes on the headers/side pipews to give you the adjustability? If you did any leaking issues?

At this pint I am off by 1 1/2" on the passenger side beine equal to the drivers. You can't tell unless your eyes are 10' apart from each other or in my case you measure them.. ;)
 

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There's a hi-temp fire-resistant silicone that you can use to seal the connection. It's about $8 a tube at Home Depot.

Tim TT
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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I have the sealer and at this point the go-cart is fine.. But if you start opening up the mount holes and "tweaking" the alignment to allow for straight horizontal pipes does this open up leaks??
 

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I elongated the flange holes which gave me about 10 degrees of adjustability. No leaks using hi-temp silicone only. I used that method to get the pipes parallel to the frame (and the ground) in a vertical plane. You may also find the need for a shim or 2 under either motor mount to get both pipes an equal distance from the ground. Finally, you may need to loosen the transmount bolts and swing it left or right a little bit to get the pipes parallel to the frame in the horizontal plane. I must admit, my headers and pipes fit pretty damn good, and I only found it necessary to elongate the holes on the left side.

Happy motoring
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Thanks Old guy.. My pipes look good at this stage but I will know a lot more once body is on!
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Do the number 10 sheet metal screws really work on the mark 2 kit, they seem very small?

Mike
 

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IMO the best way is to fit your sidepipes only after the body and doors are completly assembled ( windshield,interior mirror,and doors are installed and have been and adjusted to they're final postions).With my car I had to use spacers between the body and the body mounts along the side of the car,this I did after cutting and welding my exhaust to get the pipes level and parallel to the frame,well after installing the spacers my body was no longer parallel to the frame,this caused the gap between the body and the pipes to narrow at the back,which required me to cut and weld the pipes a second time.Morale of the story fit the body and doors before the exhaust. ;)
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Mike,

Call Mark At breeze and forgo the sheet metal screws! Mark has a simple kit with new hangers for $20ish... all stainless hardware and much more manly
 
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