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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK... my mated 351W / QT Bellhousing / TKO-600 with mid-shift conversion from Forte is going in this week. I'll be using Energy Suspension motor and tranny mounts.

Keeping in mind the trauma I've had to date, would any of you sages care to offer me a primmer ("Intalling Engines for Dummies") on installing the mated combo in a Mk-III?

My radiator is not installed yet, so there's no issue there.

I'm planning on using an engine hoist with a load-leveler and connecting to front and back of each head.

I'm planning on removing the second diagonal top brace in the tranny tunnel before I attempt the install because I understand it will interfer with the shifter. I will re-locate and reweld later.

In addition to a general tutorial, I've a couple of specifics:

1. Do I attach the motor and tranny mounts to motor and tranny (loosely) before the install - or should I attach them to frame?

2. Do I need to remove the stub shifter before install if I'm removing the middle diagonal tunnel brace beforehand?

3. Do I need to elevate the front-end prior to the install? (We DID NOT do this during build school, and everthing seemed to go fine.)

4. I've not riveted my FFMetal Forward Firewall yet. Must I do this before I install the motor (I'm still considering a heater install and it would be nice to not pin the firewall until I've decided...)

I need to know everything that could possibly go wrong, because it probably will if my luck runs true to form.

THANKS FOR HELP AND YOUR ENCOURAGEMENT!

[ March 22, 2007, 10:00 PM: Message edited by: Sherrell ]
 

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1. Motor mounts loose to the motor. If I remember right I had the tranny mount loose on the tranny also.

2. Remove at least the shift handle. I had just the stub from the mid shift.

3. I had single jack stand in the front center.

Hardest part is getting the motor mounts lined up correctly. Can take some finessing. Just have patience.

Good Luck!
 

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put pads under the front of the tranny tunnel. you will inevitably bump it with the tranny when going in.

tranny mount slips in nicely from underneath once the motor/tranny is put in place

have AT LEAST three people there to put the engine in. one to pull the tranny under the tranny tunnel, one to be sure the engine hits nothing when going in, and one to lower the engine on the hoist.

let the engine hang naturally with the tranny pointing down. it's easy to push it up a little, but very hard to lift if you start with all being level.

dry fit your headers & sidepipes. check for levelness of the sidepipes before totally snugging down your motor mounts. if you need to nudge it a little, you can do this:



in the photo, i propped up the side of the engine with a 2x4. nudged the mount just a little, and the sidepipes leveled out.

just remember that it takes a bit of experimenting, nudging the mount down does not necessarily lower that side of the engine.

again, this is for MINOR adjustments.

good luck and be safe
 

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4. I can't think of any reason you couldn't put the FF Metal firewall in later since it rivets vertically from the cockpit side.

Also, make sure your motor mounts are on the correct side. Will cause odd alignment issues if wrong.
 

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1) I loosely attached motor mounts, slipped in tranny mounts after it was in.
2) I removed the stub mid-shift kit
3) I had the whole chassis raised up about 12" -15".
4) I had my firewall installed before engine / tranny went in.

It was pretty easy for me and I had never done that before. I'm sure I'll have to make some adjustments later. Only wish I had installed the headers prior to dropping the engine in.
 

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Don't use an impact wrench on your load leveler.
It would be easier to put the engine in with help but I did it 3 times by myself, it can be done.
Take your time.
 

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Sherrell,

Great to hear you are getting to this stage.

1) Mounts loose on engine, tranny mount after
2) Stub in
3) Raised front end

If you do raise your front make sure your lift can clear jackstand or whatever is holding front up. After lift is in position lock/chock the wheels. Let the leveler do a lot of the work for you. I know others will disagree with me but if you have not done many installs please have two helpers with you. It will be easier to maneuver into position and keep from dinging anything and if anything starts to go wrong you will have help. Good luck and let's see some pics after it's in!
 

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Leaving the stub of the shifter is fine, you'll just need to be aware of it as the trans goes into the tunnel...

I installed our engine/trans combo with the trans mount A-frame already bolted in with the rolling chassis on the ground, no problems with clearance...

Left the mounts on the block, but had them loose to help align them into the frame notches...

Even the standard firewall you can get to for riveting after the engine is in if need be (though I would drill the holes NOW)...

HTH...
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My headers should be here from FFR tomorrow. Should I wait to install the engine until after I've installed the headers????
 

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Which headers? If they're 4x4's it won't go in. Pete
 

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I installed my headers (4x4) after my engine. Used the stage 8 header bolts and really wasn't all that hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Duh....
Sherrell
 

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Sherrell, I love your questions. This is helping me a lot hearing these answers because I am just right behind you on my build. Thanks!

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks, Jack. Engine & Tranny are going in today (I hope)!
Sherrell
 

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Sherrell,
You are a day early!! Congrats!! I dropped in on Sherrell this week and want to congratulate him on a beautiful job. Good luck with the install. I did get Jack Roush's signature on my glove box door yesterday.

Have fun and good luck! The engine install will go fine.

Robert
 

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Sherrell,
One thing you might want to keep an eye on as the motor goes in is, how far "down" in the frame will the tail of the tranny sit relative to the differential pinion flange. Have you already gotten the pinion-angle tutorial? I think some builders have put shims between the tranny and tranny mount to make the angle of the driveshaft and universal joints less extreme. Last night on my car I found that the u-joints are whipped and I believe it's because they have been operating in too extreme an angle. Or maybe it was just those 900 track miles, I don't know. When I replace them I'm going to look at shimming between the tranny and its mount to bring the tranny tail up a bit.
Good Luck!
Charlie V.
 

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Does your transmission have fluid in it? If it does, then either buy a plug to slip in the back or tape a plastic bag over the spout. You need to point it down to get the combo slid into place.

I second the helper recommendation. Here are mine:


Note the vise grips on the jack handle laying on the tire? Makes it much easier to "crack" open the valve and control the rate of descent so you don’t pinch any little fingers as your helpers guide you into place.
 
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