[Eric Jacobs]

My engine builder told me to use a 165 degree thermostat (302 carb), so i did....Usually the temp is perfect right around 195-200, but today in stop and go traffic i saw 220 degrees....I got a little scared...I am still adding fluid to the system when it shuts down occcasionally....what should i do?

Eric

 

[Eric Jacobs]

also, what is the highest temp you can see before you just turn it off to prevent problems?

Eric

 

[pete gibbs]

Is this with fan on?

 

[Eric Jacobs]

yes...fan goes on too at 195!!! And i just checked after last time takigg it out...it was full with fluid!

Eric

[ June 17, 2002, 06:50 PM: Message edited by: Eric 427 Shelby ]

 

[jason]

I would think you should be running much cooler than that. With my combo my car runs 180 tops driving around and if it sits idling for a long time in FL heat it might get to 195-200.
I have a FMS Cobra R radiator. Aluminum with black side tanks.

 

[Eric Jacobs]

I have a new water pump, new 3 core aluminum radiator, electric fan and Russ's fan shroud....

Eric

 

[Paul Rose]

Eric,

If you haven't already tried...

Open the heater line near where it goes into the intake (or if no heater, remove the plug from the intake where the heater tube would go) while adding water. You can even add water directly into the hole with a funnel.

I thought I was full but I was able to get an extra 1.5+ quarts in this way.

 

[Eric Jacobs]

I have a heater and checked that place on the manifold today...it was full...any more suggestions?

Eric

 

[Rocketir]

Could it be a stuck thermostat? Try checking your hose that goes from your radiator to your thermostat. While the engine is hot, the hose should not be cold. This would check that your thermostat is operating.
EDIT: oops I just reread the thread. It says that the fan is operating and I am assuming the probe is in the radiator so..
Another thought.. make sure your fan is operating in the correct direction, ie pulling air INTO the engine.

[ June 18, 2002, 12:56 PM: Message edited by: Rocketir ]

 

[pete gibbs]

Eric,I recently read an article that made some sense.If you are cuising without stopping for a few minutes and your temp is normal (170-190 on my car fan off ) and you overheat when you idle then you probably have an airflow problem not a system problem.This means you need more air over your radiator.If you look at the stock fan shroud you notice that the air is pulled through the full surface of the radiator and out the back of the fan.Without this type of shroud the fan pulls air through only the center "circle" of the radiator as well as from the sides.I recently installed AC in my car and learned this to be true.The AC condensor coil requires good airflow at all speeds so fan efficiency is crucial.I believe the same holds true for the cooling system as well.Don't know if this long "windy" post will help but I hope it will.Pete.

 

[Eric Jacobs]

Yep...got hot again just now when i had it in stop and go traffic...the upper radiator hose is hot when the engine gets hot...meaning the thermostat is oppening and closing...what should i do? Oh and about the shroud..i am using Russ Thompson's aluminum one....Another question for you...how hot can these 302's get before you can damage it, i am just wondering?

Eric

 

[pete gibbs]

One thing you might try if possible.With your car warm and idling position a BIG fan in front of the car blowing as much air as possible through the radiator.This might confirm an airflow problem.Pete.

 

[Eric Jacobs]

when the car is running on side and back roads..the temp is great!!! But when it is not moving it gets hot!! I have the fan from FFR attached to the radiator directly blowing the air into the engine (sucking air through the radiator)

Eric

 

[Eric Jacobs]

seems that i have all the air out, and my thermostat is opening, and my electic fan does kick on....anythign else to check?

Eric

 

[millinium_al]

What fan are you using? Is it the one that came with the kit? A point above about heating up because there may not be enough air flow thru the rad might be one to look into. I see you have a 3 core rad. More rad core thickness might mean more air restriction. Many of the guys out here are going to the latest SPAL model that pumps out twice the air flow and is a direct mounting match for the old one.

 

[Colorado Steve]

It doesn't sound like this is the issue, but make sure that the fins on the radiator are not all bent over and restricting flow.

Also - unscrew the temp sensor and make sure that there isn't any air in the system. (burp the system. I also squeeze the lower radiator hose with the cap off to help burp the system.

Also - no more the 50/50 antifreeze to water.

You shouldn't have this issue with the 302. These tend to run pretty cool. I have had mine idling in the garage and the temp gets to 190 and stays there without the fan. I'm using the pep boys special 3 core Mustang radiator..

Steve

 

[Eric Jacobs]

i am currently using the supplied electric fan, which one do you reccomend?

Eric

 

[millinium_al]

I had been using the FFR supplied fan on my stock displacement 302 with no problem. I'm changing
over to the bigger SPAL only because I'm putting a stroker in and thought I would see slightly higher
heat generated.

Another thought....have you checked the cooling system pressure? I had a heating problem at last
years Hot August Nights only to find I had a slight leak at one of the hose clamps. The leak never
showed fluid.

 

[RacingRob]

Hey Colorado Steve, Why no more 50/50 water/antifreeze?
That's what I've been using for years.
Thanks,
RR

 

[JAM1775]

Does the temp rise very rapidly ??
I have had similar experience with my 351W. It was an air pocket. Despite the motor running at oper. temp. my temp sensor did not reach low enough thru the top of my intake to hit coolant.
As a result the air trapped in there would rise in temp "very quickly" yet...the motor seemed to run fine and did not feel near 220 degrees . But my gauge read 220 degrees !! Of hot air. I guess the air was trapped under one of the intake coolant runners. I first verified my sensor by dropping the tip in a coffe cup of boiling water.The gauge read accurately and dropped with the cooling water. If you can tighten/lower your temp. sensor try that. But you may need to burp your motor. Fill it. Start it for 20 secs. Stop. Open. Fill it. and repeat process until when you open it remains full. I have eliminated air pockets when initially filling (or after an intake swap) by removing the other plug on the intake coolant side (or where your temp. sensor is) and first filling the motor from there...letting air escape in the process. Or open that plug and fill normally until coolant rises thru the hole. No need to burp after that.
ps: I do not think 220 would harm anything for a while but you may NOT be running 220. There are also threads cautioning 160-165 thermostats may cause more engine wear. 180 may be a safer bet once you get the kinks out .

[ June 18, 2002, 05:11 PM: Message edited by: JAM1775 ]