It was up near 210. Engine was also strting to slow while it was at idle. Of course I'm thinking 'Oh-Crap' cool looking car will soon over heat. The light changed I moved and temp started to lower back to normal. I guess it's because I have gauges that actually seem to work so when I see the temp gauge at 195 and then it goes down before my eys to 175 I'm surprised. I always figure the thermostat must be opening and closing...Just Like it's Supposed to. I do wonder what is 'The BEST' thermostat to go with.
I have a 190 thermostat that was required when I had stacks on my car. The engine temp varies between 200 and 210. When the fan is on it is consistently 200 even on the hottest days. I figure I should change to the 160 so it will run 175 to 180 with the fan on hot days now that I have a carb.
Did you install under-drive pulleys on the water pump? I have them and I run in the 205 region all the time, and so far it hasn't been a problem but I am looking for solutions to run cooler (switching to an aluminum radiator and possible and oil cooler even though I have a 5.0L).
With carb your ok with a 180* t stat. The secret is haveing a good fan controler that adjustable as to where it turns on and off. I try not to let the temp get lowwer then the stats opening temp and make the fan shut off at 180*. My fan is on at 195*,off at 180*,useing a 180* t stat.
When at idle along with the longer then normal distance the radiator is from the water pump. Not unusuall to see a slight temp spike as soon as you pull away form a long red light and water starts to circulate faster. Should recover very quickly thu. If sitting in traffic,I manually turn on fan to keep the temp spike to a minimum when car pulls away. Normal stop and go fan stays on auto.
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