Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have dimensions for the FE mounts pictured below? They were made by a forum member (Rob - BMEP) but I’m not sure he is active on here anymore. I actually think the mounts in pictures are for a 460, but Rob made some very similar for a FE.
364328
364329
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
846 Posts
Hi Joey - I'm not very active on the forum these days but I've checked in to the BB topic a few times lately and just happened to check today :)

I did make similar motor mounts - you can see 'em in the top 3 squares of this image: http://www.robs427.com/images/ffcars/grad/engine_5.jpg I might have a couple more photos if it would be helpful.

Sadly, I made these back when I wasn't yet using CAD for parts like this so I don't have any drawings. I probably used poster board templates but I just checked and I couldn't find them with some of the stuff I saved.. this was quite a few years ago :) I do remember that to get the block bolt hole locations, I cut the plates to shape then marked the bolt hole locations with some transfer screws I made (you can buy them also). Getting the rest of the dimensions was actually quite a bit of work. My recollection is that I did it this way:
  1. Make plates that fit against block
  2. Make plates that fit on FFR frame motor mount pads. I suggest making these oversize to start.
  3. Put engine in the car, get it to the position you want it to end up in (harder than it sounds).
  4. Cut the tubes and put the bushings in so you can use them for mock-up
  5. Figure out about how tall the 2 bottom tabs can be and make cardboard tabs (might have used sheet metal) just for a sanity check.
  6. I think I then cut the bottom tabs and tacked them in place on the plates from #2. Then I clamped the tube/bushing setup in them (actually used the steel inner bushing as a jig for the tack welding) in place. Next, I clamped (temporary, like using vice grip clamps) the bottom plate/tab/plate assembly to the frame pads and put the engine back in place and finally figured out what the web (between plate #1 and the tube) size/shape needed to look like. From there, I cut a poster board web to see if I had the shape/size right. After cutting the webs out of steel, I tack welded them in place in the car, took everything out and welded it.
It's pretty tricky because you're working in a "V" so when you move anything up/down, it moves in/out.

Hope that helps...

Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Rob! The pics and instructions are super helpful. My biggest concern is getting the engine located. I don’t have my transmission yet, and I can image it’s going to be just about impossible to locate everything. I should be getting my FFR mounts next week so I may use those until I can build these.

Just out of curiosity, do you like them over the rubber mounts?

Thanks again for your help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
846 Posts
Thanks Rob! The pics and instructions are super helpful. My biggest concern is getting the engine located. I don’t have my transmission yet, and I can image it’s going to be just about impossible to locate everything. I should be getting my FFR mounts next week so I may use those until I can build these.

Just out of curiosity, do you like them over the rubber mounts?

Thanks again for your help.
My pleasure, Joey.

It's not too bad a job if you take your time and spend plenty of time looking for tight spots. These engine bays are really pretty big, especially with the FFR footboxes. Still, like you said, I'd wait for your gearbox before making anything final. You might be ok, but it wouldn't be fun to go to the work of making mounts only to be surprised by having something not line up due to the gearbox. The gearbox also makes it a lot easier to see where you are in left/right position. I think I had my engine/gearbox combo in/out of the car about 4-5 times before figuring out the mounts. I had to modify things before I could put the engine where I really wanted it. For exmapoe, I used enlarged footboxes (can't recall the vendor) and had to modify one with a "clearance bubble" for the rear driver's side header primary tube... couldn't really tell where the engine should sit until that was done. It's well worth coming up with a way to get the engine blocked into position and take a good long look at everything to see if it's where you think you want it (and take into consideration that it's going to move). One of the limits with my setup is I could've easily made mounts that resulted in the oil pan hanging below the 4" round frame tubes. I also took a million pictures from all angles so I could go back later and spend time time looking at them.

One handy tip: On my car, I found that a couple short chunks of 4" x 4" worked as temporary motor mounts. I screwed them (fender washer & 1 drywall screw) them to the frame pads and was able to set the engine on them and it was REALLY close to what I ended up with. That was super quick/handy to get a starting point.

I never had rubber mounts so I can't compare. I will say I don't feel like the poly mounts don't seem to feel "harsh" like solid mounts, but to be honest, I don't really care that much about vibration/noise/harshness in this car so YMMV.

I looked for templates again and was able to find one with the engine side bolt holes so in the next day or two, I'll scan it and send it to you.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top