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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I heading to FFR on saturday to tour the factory and put together the budget for my MK4 build (I will be leaving my wallet at home for safety reasons). Anyway...I have always been a bowtie guy but can apprechiate that putting anything other than a Ford motor would be a crime. I have located a roller 351W and will be starting the project with an engine build. Could you guys give me some advice on a head, cam, intake, and carb combo for these Windsors. I am looking for a streetable 375-400 HP and plan on just doing a stock rotating assembly rebuild to start off with. I am getting the running motor for $250 and would like to keep the budget somewhere around $2500.
 

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I heading to FFR on saturday to tour the factory and put together the budget for my MK4 build (I will be leaving my wallet at home for safety reasons). Anyway...I have always been a bowtie guy but can apprechiate that putting anything other than a Ford motor would be a crime. I have located a roller 351W and will be starting the project with an engine build. Could you guys give me some advice on a head, cam, intake, and carb combo for these Windsors. I am looking for a streetable 375-400 HP and plan on just doing a stock rotating assembly rebuild to start off with. I am getting the running motor for $250 and would like to keep the budget somewhere around $2500.
Are you doing a complete rebuild and do you want forged pistons ? If so I think your budget for a complete engine is a little tight. The stock 351w block, crank, and rods are pretty strong and good for up to around 700hp , but to obtain your goal I would consider building a stroker A 393 stroker can be built using an aftermarket cast crank, stock rods, and a .30 302 piston.Stay will a dual plane intake, and don't let anyone tell you that aluminim heads are the only way to go. There are lots of good cast iron heads out there, that make more power than aluminum. You could build something similar to a 93 lightning engine within your budget, but they were only rated at 240hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Stroker is definitly in the plans but I didn't think it would be in the imediate budget. I am doing the whole build "in house" including paint and body work because I am fortunate to have access to a paint booth. As I said I am not too familiar with Ford motors but the reading I have done so far had me under the impression that with a stock 351w roller shortblock I could get close to my goals. Any immediate input would be apprechiated as I am planning on grabbing the engine this saturday. I was under the impression that a 351w block with the factory provisions (tappings and extended lifter bores) were not that easy to come by. Especially for short money.
 

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A 351w is easily capable of 400hp, but you have to extend the rpm range to get the desired hp. If you are going to replace the pistons, the only cost you have is a stroker crank that will cost about $150 more than turning the stock one. The extra cubic inches will help to keep your desired hp level in the lower rpm range where you need it. These cars are light and don't need a ton of hp to make them fun to drive. A 300hp car that makes power at low rpms is much more fun to drive than a 1000hp car that makes high prm power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes I am planning on rebuilding the shortblock. The motor is running but has 130K on it so its time.
 

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long arm it
400m rods 6.580
same stroke 3.5
302 pistons / valve reliefs
stock crank .030 over bore
rods will need some machining or the rod journals they are a bit wider on the big end.
i just argued with my brother about doing his crank machining and with 1/8" fillets on the journals to fit the 400 rods.
he thinks he will beat my 372w stroker:evil:
maybe he will beat me in MPG:icon18:
or just freshen up the lower end and build the top end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Your second option is what I was thinking. Rebuild the bottom end with a standard master rebuild kit and liven it up a bit on the top end. I 100% agree that I don't need sick HP considering the weight of the MK4 but I have also read enough of these posts that I know its a sickness and I will be looking to upgrade the 351 down the line. Unfortunatly that isn't in the cards right now. Does anyone have any experience with some favorable cam/head combos? I have read that certain heads require pistons with reliefs in them.
 

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somebody got their christmas present

Don, i thought it was a dancing pole:001_tongue:that you were getting 4 ur wife.:evil:

johonee, freshen up the rings and bearings check your tolerances on the crank.
beef up the top end

or go crazy like me:evil:
 

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Did you already purchase this kit? It is for a flat tappet motor not a roller motor. The heads and intake will work well on your 351w, but will be a little small if you stroke it. You could always port the heads and intake though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
no I was just researching and realized that the 2090 is for the roller setup not the 2092. Some of the reviews say that you have to wind it up to reap the benifits of the package so it might not be the best choice for the street. The roller package makes about 25 more HP so we might be pushing the stock (rebuilt) bottom end.

Either way the motor comes home tomorrow and it will be on the stand being broken down throughout the night. I hope it likes coors light!
 

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Did you already purchase this kit? It is for a flat tappet motor not a roller motor. The heads and intake will work well on your 351w, but will be a little small if you stroke it. You could always port the heads and intake though.
The stock 351w is flat tappet. *EDIT, see my explanation below.

Pole? Well, I had to be the pole's stand in this Christmas. :)
 

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That package is probably a good compromise. The problem is you either make alot of peak horsepower at a high rpm or less peak horsepower but more usable power at a lower rpm. I hate to keep pushing cubic inchs but thats easiest way to make more hp at a lower rpm. I would start by tearing the motor down, and getting everything checked out. I have seen some 130,000 mile shortblocks that could use a hone, polished crank and some new rings and bearings. I have also seen some that were wore out.
 

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He has a roller block.
Oddly, from all that I have read, the roller blocks came with flat tappet cams and lifters installed. (At least I hear the 94-95 roller blocks had flat tappet cams in them. It was probably cheaper to only make the lifter bosses taller and drill the valley in the first couple of years, than to go all the way and upgrade to a roller cam, roller lifters and a spider. ) So, unless you are going to spend money on a new cam, spider and lifters, he could just leave it flat tappet. I would definitely switch to a roller.

My first idea when planning my engine was to get a stock short block and recondition it retaining the crank and rods. Then upgrade to a roller cam and an all new top end kit like Edelbrock offers. That is probably the most affordable way to get power with a 351w.
 

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Oddly, from all that I have read, the roller blocks came with flat tappet cams and lifters installed. (At least I hear the 94-95 roller blocks had flat tappet cams in them. It was probably cheaper to only make the lifter bosses taller and drill the valley in the first couple of years, than to go all the way and upgrade to a roller cam, roller lifters and a spider. ) So, unless you are going to spend money on a new cam, spider and lifters, he could just leave it flat tappet. I would definitely switch to a roller.

My first idea when planning my engine was to get a stock short block and recondition it retaining the crank and rods. Then upgrade to a roller cam and an all new top end kit like Edelbrock offers. That is probably the most affordable way to get power with a 351w.

You are correct, but it is rare in an engine build to buy a later roller block and keep the flat tappet camshaft. If you are going to use a flat tappet camshaft you are better off with an early block that is stronger. But, I understand your point of buying the block for a future upgrade.
 

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In my opinion, the 351w is just begging for more air. Find a way to give it more air and it will be happy. Heads and cam are the biggest variables.
 

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Are you doing a complete rebuild and do you want forged pistons ? If so I think your budget for a complete engine is a little tight. The stock 351w block, crank, and rods are pretty strong and good for up to around 700hp , but to obtain your goal I would consider building a stroker A 393 stroker can be built using an aftermarket cast crank, stock rods, and a .30 302 piston.Stay will a dual plane intake, and don't let anyone tell you that aluminim heads are the only way to go. There are lots of good cast iron heads out there, that make more power than aluminum. You could build something similar to a 93 lightning engine within your budget, but they were only rated at 240hp.
700 hp :001_rolleyes:really....:eek::eek:
and stock mains
sorry thats.....:shifty: BS
i wouldn't go more than 600hp on a stock block and thats pushing it. 700hp and a short term engine
 
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