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FFCobra Fanatic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently finished the physical install of a new line lock. The physical install was a PIA but came out great. Was just about to finish the installation of the wiring and realize now that I may have a bad line lock.

The line lock appears to be a solenoid. Wiring is very simple with just two wires - a red that is supposed to be connected to 12V + and a black that is supposed to be connected to ground. Obviously you also wire in a switch.

Before installing the wiring I decided to test the line lock by simply directly connecting the red wire to 12V + and the black to ground (per instructions). I was expecting to hear an audible "click" but heard nothing. This seemed strange. Yes I should have done this *before* the physical installation. Live and learn.

In any event to make a long story short with my multi-meter set to check for continuity it appears there is continuity across the red and black wires coming out of the line lock (I get an audible beep).

I do know how to use the multi-meter as I use it all the time so I am certain I have continuity here.

So this is a very long way of asking the dumb question - should i have continuity across across the positive and ground wires coming directly out of the line lock? I realize you normally shouldn't have continuity between positive and ground but just thought maybe there was something unique about a line lock solenoid.

Thanks!
-Matt
 

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Tropically Twisted
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I would think that you would have continuity all the time.
 

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Matt - I just installed a line lock as well.. Wired it up, everything worked at first... Then when I ran the brake lines, etc, and got everything tightened down, including the lock in mounting piece, it didn't work. Figured it was some crappy chinese junk I got from Summit, started checking connections, etc. Turns out, I had somehow torqued it just enough when tightening everything down that the solenoid was in a bit of a bind. Once I loosed the mounting housing, wiggled it around a bit, and then tightened it back up, it started "clicking" again. Seems to work fine now but haven't driven the car yet... Could be you have the same issue, easy to check. The positive continuity could mean the lock is stuck "on"... loosen it up, tap on it with a wrench or something, and try again. Mine has a compression type fitting under the bottom that secures it in the mount...
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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I would expect that Matt. The solenoid should have a coil which should have continuity. You should see some resistance though. You might want to try checking to see if there could be a short to ground. I would think if that were the case though you would blow the fuse (you do have a fuse, right?)

I could take a look for you Sunday if you're still stuck

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll check to see what the resistance is reading on the multi-meter.

Ed, I will try that next - some hope! Man I do not want to re-plumb this thing.

John, thanks very much for the offer. Let me see how I make out with Ed's recommendation first.
 

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Matt,
I have the line lock from summit. It is mounted and plumbed but not wired yet. I just checked the resistance and I'm showing about 7 ohms across the two wires. I'm thinking that should be normal as the solenoid is a coil that should have a little resistance across it. IOW I think your reading of continuity is normal.

I energized mine a while back trying to check what ended up being an unrelated brake problem and you can here a faint but audible click or clunk when it is energized.

Mike M.
 

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michael stora

I'm cornfused, midwest lingo, are you running somthing to also use the front brakes for parking?
 

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Going nowhere fast.
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Originally posted by dan r:
michael stora

I'm cornfused, midwest lingo, are you running somthing to also use the front brakes for parking?
I'm using manual industrial hydraulic valves as line locks, one in the front circuit and one in the rear. I will use the front only for warming up my tires and both the front and rear as a parking brake.

Mike
 
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