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Parking brake cable

Hi Paul, I've been looking over your build thread and admiring your work. I recently installed the Wilwood 12.88 brakes on my build. They appear to be the same as yours and my question is did you use the Wilwood park brake cable kit P/N 330-9371? Thanks for your detailed build thread.
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #464
Hi Paul, I've been looking over your build thread and admiring your work. I recently installed the Wilwood 12.88 brakes on my build. They appear to be the same as yours and my question is did you use the Wilwood park brake cable kit P/N 330-9371? Thanks for your detailed build thread. JR
Thanks, and you're welcome. To be honest I don't know much about the e-brake cables I used. They were what came with the kit. What I can say though is they weren't the 330-9371 kit you reference. I suspect they were just regular cables (as opposed to Wilwood) and required the adapters they supplied at the calipers. I painted them, but you can see them in this picture.


The other ends were the right length to attach to the FF e-brake handle when routed under the chassis tubes. I cut them off and routed above the chassis tubes and attached with the Lokar clevis shown in my build thread.
 

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Mustang vent tube:
I ordered the part you recommended but have yet to install it. I looked at the end with the rubber right angle boot and then looked at the vent hole in the differential. Does the right angle boot just push into the vent hole? It almost looks like a threaded tube is missing which would thread into the differential vent hole then push into the right angle boot. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #466
Mustang vent tube:
I ordered the part you recommended but have yet to install it. I looked at the end with the rubber right angle boot and then looked at the vent hole in the differential. Does the right angle boot just push into the vent hole? It almost looks like a threaded tube is missing which would thread into the differential vent hole then push into the right angle boot. Thoughts?
There is an aluminum fitting part number 2L1Z-4022-BA that goes into that hole with a nipple for the right angle vent tube connection. Some center sections have it already installed (mine did) but others don't. Check this thread for more info and pictures. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr-type-65-coupe/585378-vent-tube-installation.html
 

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Do you happen to know the final length of your hard fuel line and return. I plan to approximate your work by piecing together two pre-cut and flared sections.
 

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Discussion Starter #468
Do you happen to know the final length of your hard fuel line and return. I plan to approximate your work by piecing together two pre-cut and flared sections.
Sorry, I don't know the actual final lengths. They're buried in the chassis now obviously. I checked my notes though and can confirm I purchased two 10-foot sections of 3/8-inch SS tubing. One each for the sending and return lines. I don't recall having large pieces left over, but it's been a while. Hope this helps a little.
 

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I’ve now received my Coyote engine, so lots to share there. But first a bit of unfinished business on the IRS. I know there are many options, but I chose to fill with the exact Ford recommended gear lube and friction modifier. Didn’t see the Motorcraft products on the shelf at any of my local parts stores, so stopped at the local Ford dealer. He said they don’t normally stock the 75W-85 weight. I mentioned that was specified by Ford for the 2015 Mustang IRS, and he responded they haven’t replaced the gear lube in too many of those yet. OK I guess… Anyway, he ordered what I needed. At the same time, I ordered the Mustang vent tube for the center section. How to handle the vent isn’t mentioned anywhere in the FF instructions. The Mustang piece is maybe a little too long, but has the right size right angle connecter to plug onto the center section, and then a plastic vent at the other end, similar to the metal vent used on the 8.8 solid axle I’m familiar with. Once the stuff arrived, I put the first quart of gear lube in, then the 3+ ounces of friction modifier, and then topped off ending up using about 3.3 pints as specified. Once again I was reminded how much that friction modifier stinks! (My wife noticed very quickly as well.) Took about a day for the garage to air out.

These are the products recommended by Ford. Easy enough to find in Mustang specs. Also listed at the end of the FF IRS instructions.


This is the Ford part number for the Mustang vent tube assembly. It’s only $10-12.


Just mocking up how it might be used, this is plugged onto the center section and routed over to the PS.


I’m thinking of tie-wrapping it to the fuel tank vent tube that will come up in this same area in the wheel well. That’s where the Mustang routes it. Would be easy to shorten.


OK, now to the Coyote adventure. Some months ago when I planned and budgeted this build, using FF’s Coyote instructions, other build threads, etc. I planned all the parts necessary, including of course the engine itself. I had several sources in mind to buy it from, mainly shopping price to be honest. When I was ready to click the button to purchase last week, the first place I went said “Ford Coyote M-6007-M50 no longer available, replaced with M-6007-M50A.” Went to a number of sites and found the same message, although some with the M-6007-M50 still available in limited quantities. Turned out what I was seeing, and I guess I must be living under a rock, is that Ford made some pretty significant changes starting in 2015, and M-6007-M50A is the 2015-2016 Coyote motor. I immediately noted it has more HP and torque, so no complaints there. Then I found they have released a brand new control pack M-6017-504V for the 2015-2016 engine, which is mandatory. The 2011-2014 engine won’t work with the new control pack and the 2015-2016 won’t work the old control pack.

So, after all said and done, I found a great price for the 2015-2016 engine, control pack, engine covers, alternator and starter package, including free lift gate home delivery, and placed my order last Thursday. After a little back and forth discussion, received notice that it shipped on Friday. Monday it was at the freight company, and Tuesday morning it was in my garage. Now that’s service! Turns out (and I didn’t know any of this) Coyotes are made in Ford’s Essex engine plant, which is right across the river from me in Windsor, Canada. Goes from there to the Ford Racing distribution center in Livonia, MI, also pretty close to me. So it never had very far to go. BTW, the place I bought the engine is not a forum vendor, but I recommend them. They were very interested in my project, patiently made sure I had exactly what I needed, and asked me to send a picture when it’s done. Cool! PM me if you want more details.

Just a few words about the 2015-2016 Coyote engine. I am far from a Coyote expert. I’m learning as I go here. It’s rated at 430 HP and just over 400 torque. In the Roadster with the revised intake and straight tube headers, should get a good bump from those numbers. I think it will be enough. Some of the changes to the 2015-2016 engine are bigger heads and valves. Apparently similar to the Boss heads but in cast form. A revised crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and a couple internal changes to the block. A major addition is charge motion control valves (CMCV) added to the intake manifold. This was something used before on 3V mod motors, as I understand, and one of the first performance modifications was to remove them. Ford claims these were done right on the Coyote, and get totally out of the way when open. They are supposed to provide better low-end torque without affecting high rpm power. I understand this also allowed some changes in how the variable cam timing works. All interesting stuff (I guess) but I think it’s cool my anniversary edition with the latest 2015 Mustang IRS now will also have the latest Mustang powerplant. The flip side is what might be the implications of the change as I go down a path not travelled yet for these builds (that I know of). I’ll detail what I’ve found out so far. Mostly OK (I think…).

The engine arrived crated and boxed as many have seen. First time for me seeing a Coyote outside of an engine compartment. Interesting. And HUGE.



Right off the bat, noticed they added an oil cooler to the oil filter location. After checking with some other builders, confirmed there’s no way this will fit. Good news is that it was easily removed. It’s just sitting on top of the normal oil filter location with an extended adapter hold it in place. Side note: It’s a $300+ dollar part! I’m taking a run at eBay to see if the Mustang crowd will take it off my hands.


Next order of business was to get it out of the crate and up onto the engine stand. But before I did I quickly checked the fitment of my just received Quicktime bell housing. Oops! Ordered the wrong one. Good grief. Ordered RM-6060 instead of RM-6080. I amaze myself sometimes, and not in a good way. Exchange underway. I used the side motor mount bolt locations with chains and lots of towels and rags over the engine to hook it up and onto the engine stand. Had to get some metric bolts for the back of the block long enough for the stand, so yet another visit to my friends at Ace. But it mounted up OK. Just barely fit around the flywheel. It comes filled with oil, so drained that out. I didn’t have any clean containers, so never really thought to save the oil. I should have! I didn’t know it was 8 quarts and that it was synthetic. Put some bucks into the old oil recycle there. Oh well. Yet another lesson learned. I installed the alternator using the supplied Ford Racing kit. Very easy except the one idler wheel they provide but don't show in the instructions. Guessed it needed to replace the one already on the engine, and turns out that was right. Then turned it over and took the stock pan and pickup off and replaced with the Moroso pieces.



I would have loved to lift off that factory gasket/windage tray and peak into the innards there a little. But it was stuck in place with sealant, and I chose not to disturb it. I could see the 4-bolt mains, with the front one pretty visible. Actually I guess 6-bolt if you include the ones through the side of the block. All five are just like this. Pretty stout engine there.


After checking the pickup to pan distance using the clay method (actually plumber’s putty…) and finding it just over 3/8 inch (good) I installed the Moroso pan. Also added the engine mounts, just finger tight.


Hi Ed,

Just wondering if you needed to dismantle, pack and reassemble your engine mounts as noted in the Coyote install instructions?

I'm currently at this stage, however there were no spacers given with the kit.

Just an added note, im building a right hand drive version here in Australia, which has some added variations to the LHD instal. This is outlined in the RHD Coyote install instructions.
These instructions call for a spacer fitted between the mount and the Coyote on the right hand side only. I have this spacer only.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #470
Hi Ed,

Just wondering if you needed to dismantle, pack and reassemble your engine mounts as noted in the Coyote install instructions?

I'm currently at this stage, however there were no spacers given with the kit.

Just an added note, im building a right hand drive version here in Australia, which has some added variations to the LHD instal. This is outlined in the RHD Coyote install instructions.
These instructions call for a spacer fitted between the mount and the Coyote on the right hand side only. I have this spacer only.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Alex
I can't give direct advice regarding RHD, for obvious reasons. But can share what I did with the engine mount spacers. This was discussed a lot during the build with several other Coyote past and current builders. FF initially said only to use a spacer on the left side (LHD drive) and most including me thought this was to tip the engine away from the very close driver's footbox. For my build I found a spacer on each side was fine, and the engine was closer to level giving better header to body alignment. I initially used Whitby spacers between the engine mounts and frame mounts. During my build, FF released spacers that went inside the engine mounts. I'm sure the ones you mention. I thought that was a better solution so ordered them from FF. The pictures below show what they look like out of the package and when installed.

You will need to determine whether one spacer or two gives you the best engine alignment inside the footboxes, the proper oil pan clearance at or above the 4-inch chassis tubes, and the best side pipe alignment. All are affected by the spacer(s). I personally prefer the newer internal spacers, but the external ones work as well. Hope that helps and good luck.


 

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I’ve now received my Coyote engine, so lots to share there. But first a bit of unfinished business on the IRS. I know there are many options, but I chose to fill with the exact Ford recommended gear lube and friction modifier. Didn’t see the Motorcraft products on the shelf at any of my local parts stores, so stopped at the local Ford dealer. He said they don’t normally stock the 75W-85 weight. I mentioned that was specified by Ford for the 2015 Mustang IRS, and he responded they haven’t replaced the gear lube in too many of those yet. OK I guess… Anyway, he ordered what I needed. At the same time, I ordered the Mustang vent tube for the center section. How to handle the vent isn’t mentioned anywhere in the FF instructions. The Mustang piece is maybe a little too long, but has the right size right angle connecter to plug onto the center section, and then a plastic vent at the other end, similar to the metal vent used on the 8.8 solid axle I’m familiar with. Once the stuff arrived, I put the first quart of gear lube in, then the 3+ ounces of friction modifier, and then topped off ending up using about 3.3 pints as specified. Once again I was reminded how much that friction modifier stinks! (My wife noticed very quickly as well.) Took about a day for the garage to air out.

These are the products recommended by Ford. Easy enough to find in Mustang specs. Also listed at the end of the FF IRS instructions.


This is the Ford part number for the Mustang vent tube assembly. It’s only $10-12.


Just mocking up how it might be used, this is plugged onto the center section and routed over to the PS.


I’m thinking of tie-wrapping it to the fuel tank vent tube that will come up in this same area in the wheel well. That’s where the Mustang routes it. Would be easy to shorten.


OK, now to the Coyote adventure. Some months ago when I planned and budgeted this build, using FF’s Coyote instructions, other build threads, etc. I planned all the parts necessary, including of course the engine itself. I had several sources in mind to buy it from, mainly shopping price to be honest. When I was ready to click the button to purchase last week, the first place I went said “Ford Coyote M-6007-M50 no longer available, replaced with M-6007-M50A.” Went to a number of sites and found the same message, although some with the M-6007-M50 still available in limited quantities. Turned out what I was seeing, and I guess I must be living under a rock, is that Ford made some pretty significant changes starting in 2015, and M-6007-M50A is the 2015-2016 Coyote motor. I immediately noted it has more HP and torque, so no complaints there. Then I found they have released a brand new control pack M-6017-504V for the 2015-2016 engine, which is mandatory. The 2011-2014 engine won’t work with the new control pack and the 2015-2016 won’t work the old control pack.

So, after all said and done, I found a great price for the 2015-2016 engine, control pack, engine covers, alternator and starter package, including free lift gate home delivery, and placed my order last Thursday. After a little back and forth discussion, received notice that it shipped on Friday. Monday it was at the freight company, and Tuesday morning it was in my garage. Now that’s service! Turns out (and I didn’t know any of this) Coyotes are made in Ford’s Essex engine plant, which is right across the river from me in Windsor, Canada. Goes from there to the Ford Racing distribution center in Livonia, MI, also pretty close to me. So it never had very far to go. BTW, the place I bought the engine is not a forum vendor, but I recommend them. They were very interested in my project, patiently made sure I had exactly what I needed, and asked me to send a picture when it’s done. Cool! PM me if you want more details.

Just a few words about the 2015-2016 Coyote engine. I am far from a Coyote expert. I’m learning as I go here. It’s rated at 430 HP and just over 400 torque. In the Roadster with the revised intake and straight tube headers, should get a good bump from those numbers. I think it will be enough. Some of the changes to the 2015-2016 engine are bigger heads and valves. Apparently similar to the Boss heads but in cast form. A revised crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and a couple internal changes to the block. A major addition is charge motion control valves (CMCV) added to the intake manifold. This was something used before on 3V mod motors, as I understand, and one of the first performance modifications was to remove them. Ford claims these were done right on the Coyote, and get totally out of the way when open. They are supposed to provide better low-end torque without affecting high rpm power. I understand this also allowed some changes in how the variable cam timing works. All interesting stuff (I guess) but I think it’s cool my anniversary edition with the latest 2015 Mustang IRS now will also have the latest Mustang powerplant. The flip side is what might be the implications of the change as I go down a path not travelled yet for these builds (that I know of). I’ll detail what I’ve found out so far. Mostly OK (I think…).

The engine arrived crated and boxed as many have seen. First time for me seeing a Coyote outside of an engine compartment. Interesting. And HUGE.



Right off the bat, noticed they added an oil cooler to the oil filter location. After checking with some other builders, confirmed there’s no way this will fit. Good news is that it was easily removed. It’s just sitting on top of the normal oil filter location with an extended adapter hold it in place. Side note: It’s a $300+ dollar part! I’m taking a run at eBay to see if the Mustang crowd will take it off my hands.


Next order of business was to get it out of the crate and up onto the engine stand. But before I did I quickly checked the fitment of my just received Quicktime bell housing. Oops! Ordered the wrong one. Good grief. Ordered RM-6060 instead of RM-6080. I amaze myself sometimes, and not in a good way. Exchange underway. I used the side motor mount bolt locations with chains and lots of towels and rags over the engine to hook it up and onto the engine stand. Had to get some metric bolts for the back of the block long enough for the stand, so yet another visit to my friends at Ace. But it mounted up OK. Just barely fit around the flywheel. It comes filled with oil, so drained that out. I didn’t have any clean containers, so never really thought to save the oil. I should have! I didn’t know it was 8 quarts and that it was synthetic. Put some bucks into the old oil recycle there. Oh well. Yet another lesson learned. I installed the alternator using the supplied Ford Racing kit. Very easy except the one idler wheel they provide but don't show in the instructions. Guessed it needed to replace the one already on the engine, and turns out that was right. Then turned it over and took the stock pan and pickup off and replaced with the Moroso pieces.



I would have loved to lift off that factory gasket/windage tray and peak into the innards there a little. But it was stuck in place with sealant, and I chose not to disturb it. I could see the 4-bolt mains, with the front one pretty visible. Actually I guess 6-bolt if you include the ones through the side of the block. All five are just like this. Pretty stout engine there.


After checking the pickup to pan distance using the clay method (actually plumber’s putty…) and finding it just over 3/8 inch (good) I installed the Moroso pan. Also added the engine mounts, just finger tight.




Hi Paul,

I noticed you are using a oil low level switch on the Morso pan. Was this purchased separately?
My stock 2016 Coyote oil pan did not have a sensor port at all. I'm using a Canton pan, which has a spare port, but no sensor.

I've scoured the internet and cannot seem to find reference to this sensor. Do you know the part number?

Regards,
Alex.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #472
Hi Paul,

I noticed you are using a oil low level switch on the Morso pan. Was this purchased separately?
My stock 2016 Coyote oil pan did not have a sensor port at all. I'm using a Canton pan, which has a spare port, but no sensor.

I've scoured the internet and cannot seem to find reference to this sensor. Do you know the part number?

Regards,
Alex
Hey Alex. I didn't buy anything extra. The low oil sensor and harness was part of my 2015 Coyote crate package. It went right into the Moroso pan port. There is some question whether this sensor is even active using the crate motor controls pack. I heard from several that it was not on the Gen 1 Coyote, but nothing definitive for my Gen 2. But it was just as easy to put the sensor in the pan as finding a plug for it, so I just went for it. If your newer Coyote crate doesn't have the sensor or accompanying harness, I would plug the port in the pan and be done with it. Sounds like Ford is doing something different now. You could call Ford Performance tech support and confirm there isn't a sensor or support for it in your PCM if you really wanted to.
 

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FYI I got my IRS retro fit on the road last December. I autocross a lot but no track time. I have nothing but the rubber 90 degree piece on my diff. Nothing comes out of it at all.
 

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FYI I got my IRS retro fit on the road last December. I autocross a lot but no track time. I have nothing but the rubber 90 degree piece on my diff. Nothing comes out of it at all.
The question was about the low oil sensor on the Coyote engine oil pan. The Mustang center section vent tube just happened to be in the same post quoted. Agreed, I haven't seen anything come out of it as well.
 

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Hey Alex. I didn't buy anything extra. The low oil sensor and harness was part of my 2015 Coyote crate package. It went right into the Moroso pan port. There is some question whether this sensor is even active using the crate motor controls pack. I heard from several that it was not on the Gen 1 Coyote, but nothing definitive for my Gen 2. But it was just as easy to put the sensor in the pan as finding a plug for it, so I just went for it. If your newer Coyote crate doesn't have the sensor or accompanying harness, I would plug the port in the pan and be done with it. Sounds like Ford is doing something different now. You could call Ford Performance tech support and confirm there isn't a sensor or support for it in your PCM if you really wanted to.
Cheers Paul,
I thought as much and I've capped it off as you suggested.
I found this book quite helpful, it does suggest that the controls pack ignores the low level sensor. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Coyote-Engines-Build-Performance/dp/1613252897
Alex..

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Cheers Paul,
I thought as much and I've capped it off as you suggested.
I found this book quite helpful, it does suggest that the controls pack ignores the low level sensor. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Coyote-Engines-Build-Performance/dp/1613252897
Alex..

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Hi Paul,
Just tried fitting my Canton oil pan. Must say really poor quality, holes dont really line up nor does the pan sit flat without interfering with the windage tray.

I think I'll cut my losses and go for a Moroso!

How did yours fit, any issues? Any chance you know the part number of your pan?

Alex..

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Discussion Starter #477
Hi Paul. Just tried fitting my Canton oil pan. Must say really poor quality, holes don't really line up nor does the pan sit flat without interfering with the windage tray.

I think I'll cut my losses and go for a Moroso!

How did yours fit, any issues? Any chance you know the part number of your pan?

Alex..
I used the Moroso 20570 pan and Moroso 24570 pickup. Both bolted up perfectly with no fitment issues to the engine. The only issue was with the oil dipstick. There was an initial fix by Moroso but mine still had a problem. It's been a couple years. Maybe that's been corrected too. But definitely something to check and an easy fix. Talked about it in post #241 here: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/5352298-post241.html.
 

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I used the Moroso 20570 pan and Moroso 24570 pickup. Both bolted up perfectly with no fitment issues to the engine. The only issue was with the oil dipstick. There was an initial fix by Moroso but mine still had a problem. It's been a couple years. Maybe that's been corrected too. But definitely something to check and an easy fix. Talked about it in post #241 here: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/5352298-post241.html.
Once again, Thank you Paul for your priceless advise!
Alex..

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Lost in web land...

Paul, (or web guru), How do I get to your build thread where adventures in bracketry, guidance thru the electrical maze, and information on vendors and part numbers abound? I've been gone; now, I'm back. Things have changed. Where are your fellow builders with harrowing tales of building adventures? I'm needy and dependent. Where are the supporting vendors listed? You get the idea... I do thank you for the exceptional build and sharing your journey.
 

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Paul, (or web guru), How do I get to your build thread where adventures in bracketry, guidance thru the electrical maze, and information on vendors and part numbers abound? I've been gone; now, I'm back. Things have changed. Where are your fellow builders with harrowing tales of building adventures? I'm needy and dependent. Where are the supporting vendors listed? You get the idea... I do thank you for the exceptional build and sharing your journey.
The links to my build threads are in my sig line below. Those links will start you at page 1. The link for supporting vendors is in the menu bar. Advertising on FFCars.com

Welcome back!
 
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