Great job Paul! I have used your last to build threads as the foundation for my recently completed roadster.:smile2:
I have the same wilwood rear break setup but my e-brake spring seems to be too weak to fully disengage the e-brake. Did you experience this?Friday I received my second 50 pound shipment from Wilwood. The rear brakes. This is a milestone on two fronts. First, I now have the complete set of long awaited Anniversary Edition Wilwood brakes. Second, it’s the last item on my shortage and/or missing list for my kit. I am now officially 100% complete.
Just a couple words about this subject. I am a huge fan of Factory Five products (obviously) and have the highest respect for the company and their products. They’ve allowed me to do something I’ve always wanted to do, and have a final product that I’m proud to own and a blast to show and drive. But I think they have room for improvement in the order fulfillment and delivery process. I fully realize the Anniversary Edition has some unique parts plus it is (I think) the first customer deliveries of the new 2015 Mustang IRS setup. So some shortages and delays maybe could be expected. But I was honestly pretty surprised when I saw the length of the backorder list when I picked up my kit, then added some items that were missing or just plain not accounted for. Everyone at FF was super friendly and helpful during every phone call and/or email. But it’s been six months since I ordered my kit, and four plus months since I picked it up. IMO that's really not acceptable. Especially the extended delays and missed promises for the Wilwood brakes. And they require 100% payment up front before taking delivery on anything. Hmm... But now it’s finally complete. I’m confident this will soon be a distant memory, and forgotten entirely once the build is completed. Owning and driving one of these will do that to you. But especially for first-time customers, this all has to be pretty disappointing. I spent my career doing multiple business continuous improvement projects. I would suggest this is something FF may want to focus on. Premium freight alone has to be significant. OK, enough about that. And I don’t want to turn my build thread into a rant on this subject. For me it’s done. I know there are others still waiting for a number of parts. Hopefully you too will soon get to this point.
After completing the front brakes a couple weeks ago, the rear brakes went together very quickly. Again, the parts and instructions from Wilwood were top notch. Everything fit perfectly, and exactly like the instructions. I was interested (and maybe a little nervous) about the bracketry for the 2015 Mustang IRS knuckles, but it was fine. Not much to do except post some pictures.
The rears also use a separate rotor and hat assembly that is bolted together and optionally safety wired. I chose to do the safety wires like on the fronts. Getting a little better at it I guess. At least a little faster. Took me about an hour for each rotor and hat. The rotors are the same diameter as the fronts, but slightly thinner. The hats are different too. Different offset and don't require the adapter rings for the hub.
Shims are used to center the 4-piston caliper to the rotor, and also the height of the caliper on the mounting bracket. All was easy to set up just like described in the instructions. The rears use a separate parking brake caliper. So it’s quite an assembly when completed.
I routed the e-brake cables per the instructions, and looks OK to the rear mounting holes. I’m going to look for alternatives to going under the 4 inch tube to the handle. Still can’t get my head around that, even though I know many do it and it’s fine. The instructions don’t specifically say where to mount the chassis end of the flex hoses, but I could kind of see them in some of the pictures and ended up (I think) in the same locations. This should provide easy enough access to the brake lines.
I had to drag out one of the 18 inch rear wheels to check the clearance and also just see what it looked like on there. Clearance all good. They are huge though.
Earlier this week, I pretty much finished up all the cooling lines, vacuum, and PCV hoses on the front of the Coyote. Here you can see the crossover from the inlet to outlet of the heater connections. Ford Racing recommends if not using a heater (I’m not) to connect the two with a 5/16 inch restrictor in the line. I received the Gates quick connects mentioned in my last post and made up the hose. Wasn’t sure what to do for a restrictor. I ended up with a 3/4 inch long steel bushing from the hardware store that I drilled out to 5/16 inch and put in the hose held by the clamp pictured. I also completed the hose from the water neck to the top of the expansion tank. This is the one I mentioned in my last update that wasn’t available anywhere from Ford. Easy enough to make up, except that the water neck connection was 5/16 ID, and the tank 3/8 ID. So searched around and found an adapter and it’s done. I also made up the PCV hose to the bottom of the Spectre intake on the DS, and decided to re-do the PS with the same hose and placing the JLT Performance oil separator a little more neatly.
Here you can see the connections I made to the Spectre intake. The top one is for the CMCV system, and the lower one (just visible, sorry) is the DS PCV line. I used connectors from JLT Performance mentioned in some other Coyote build threads. They are aluminum, and fit into a rubber grommet in the intake. I used some Permatex Ultra Black RTV when installing them. Seems to work perfectly. The factory connectors clip right on.
All those hoses and such look pretty messy. No way to make things very pretty. That I can figure out anyway. Looks a little better with the cover in place.
Just a few more details to wrap up on the engine. Mainly power steering and then a final decision about battery location. Then it will be back out so I can finish installing all the aluminum panels. Right now doesn’t appear that I will have any space issues in the front of the engine. But it’s sure busy in there. Onward!
What do you use for lower dash support? These lower mounts look thicker than .040 and seem to have curved edges to reduce flex. What distance do you have between dash and crossbar for these supports?Thanks. I prefer not to put screws through the front, first because of appearance and second because they can get covered up with the body. Strictly a personal preference. I've seen several builds do something similar as this, so can't say it's 100% original. Came up with it during my first build and have repeated for the others. It's not exactly scrap aluminum. It's 1 inch right angle aluminum from HD or Lowes (don't remember...) cut into 1-1/2 inch lengths and trimmed to 3/4 inch wide on the dash hoop side. I attach them to the dash with flat head screws before the covering is applied. Just make sure to fill the holes dead flat or they could picture through to the dash. I place them where they're accessible from the bottom. I rivet 10-32 nut plates to the bottom of the 3/4 inch tube, and hold in place with 10-32 cap screws. I've not had to take a dash back out (yet!) but it would be easy enough to do if necessary.Edward, I absolutely love the dash work you do on your Factory Fives. It looks like you use some scrap aluminum angle to secure the dash to the top tube. Is that right? How are you attaching the angle to the dash and then how do you secure it to the top tube? On the bottom of or top of (hung) the tube?
No. Once the handle and cables were installed, and hooked up to the rear e-brakes, they have always worked perfectly. Immediately disengage when the handle is released. I found these particular e-brake calipers don't use much cable movement. Basically tightening the cable (versus being slack) and they lock up. One difference might be the way I have the cable routing. As I showed in the build thread, I didn't go under the frame tubing. I went through pulleys above the frame tubing. There is little to no drag on the cables. Maybe that makes a difference? I don't know. Just a guess. Others who installed them as FF shows may have a different experience than mine.I have the same wilwood rear break setup but my e-brake spring seems to be too weak to fully disengage the e-brake. Did you experience this?
The lower dash supports are three pieces of .040 aluminum that I made. Ends are 3-1/2 inches wide with LED downlights installed. The center brace is 9 inches wide and has a couple switches and aux outlets installed on it. I did put bends on the outside edges to make them stiffer. Left them about an inch long on each side, bent a right angle using my 30-inch HF brake, then trimmed off all but about 1/8-inch. Makes a big difference. They're attached to the top of the 2-inch dash tube and the underside of the dash on the bend. It's 5-3/4 inches from the face of the 2-inch tube to the outside of my dash. Pretty much the natural angle the dash takes when attached to the upper dash tube.What do you use for lower dash support? These lower mounts look thicker than .040 and seem to have curved edges to reduce flex. What distance do you have between dash and crossbar for these supports?
The location of the PCM in my build is dictated by the length of the PCM cables from the engine. It terminates at the front RH side of the engine. The 2015 and up PCM is smaller than the previous one, and I think would easily fit elsewhere. But not without a cable stretcher. Probably you realize it, but Factory Five shows the same location for the PCM in their revision to the Coyote instructions that now includes the 2015 version.Did you install the PCM above the PS footbox instead of through PS firewall only because you have a glove box?
I am planning no glove box but just a heater and am wondering if PCM can fit below heater through PS firewall.
I also may install wiper motor but not sure yet.
I am in AZ so I am concerned about heating of the PCM if left fully in the engine bay.
I personally don't have any experience with Casper's Electronics. But they are often cited as a source for O2 cable extensions. Looking at their website, looks like they have Ford O2 and MAF cable extensions. But nothing nearly so complex as what would be needed to extend the PCM cables, if that's what you're asking about.Is it Casper Electronics that can make plug-n-play extensions for you in any length you desire?
Short answer, yes. Longer answer, on carb'd engines it's somewhat common to install a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel log going into the carb. When I posted a picture of #7750 with one of those gauges installed, I received multiple recommendations to remove it after confirming the proper fuel pressure. Apparently there have been failures of those gauges leading to fuel leaks with obviously serious possible consequences. The firewall mounted gauge in this build doesn't get the vibration of an engine mounted gauge. Plus maybe a little less heat. But still I'm going to follow the same advice and remove it once I've confirmed the correct setting on the regulator. It serves no purpose riding around under the hood anyway. The regulator came with a plug for that fitting. Easy to remove and install the gauge any time needed."remove the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel regulator "
-Are you saying that leaving this on permanently is a hazard because it could leak or break?