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Discussion Starter #281
Jeff, Could you explain a little better the trimming the passenger side dash end? Thanks Doug
This is what Jeff was referring to. Trimmed in the general area marked. If left too long, when the rounded end is formed it will interfere with the underside of the body.



I trimmed it some before I covered it, but not enough. Note: Don't look too closely at this picture. It's from my last build, but the one that was best to mark and illustrate.
 

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In addition to the end, I had to trim the top of the "wing" near the dash hoop as it was contacting the body as well. Mind you, my body had some reconstruction in that area so it may not apply in the general case but something to look for.
 

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This is what Jeff was referring to. Trimmed in the general area marked. If left too long, when the rounded end is formed it will interfere with the underside of the body.



I trimmed it some before I covered it, but not enough. Note: Don't look too closely at this picture. It's from my last build, but the one that was best to mark and illustrate.
That also answers the question I have been pondering about the new FFR composite dash. It has right angle tabs on both sides. These clearly need to be removed and the ends of the dash trimmed as you have illustrated. thanks for clearing this up for me.
 

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Good info on trimming the passenger side dash end.

How much did you trim the bottom lip of the cockpit rolled edges (front and back)? I'm trying to get confirmation that 1/4" will get me in the ball park so that the body doesn't rub against the dash and I still have a bit of adjustment fore and aft.


John
 

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Discussion Starter #287
John, 1/4" is in the ballpark for the front. The back usually just needs to be cleaned up and have the curve smoothed out.

Jeff
I agree exactly with this advice. I marked a series of dots on the front roll 1/4-inch from the dash tube while the body was still on the chassis at delivery. I trimmed to those marks, maybe just a little more, and then watched the area very closely the first time I put the body on a few days ago. I didn't want the body hanging on my new leather dash. It didn't. The fit was just right. The body roll is 1/8-inch or so away from the dash. More at the ends where the body curves.

For the back, I straightened it out (was trimmed pretty unevenly) and it fit the first time but was a little tight. Most of the back cockpit wall has some give, so you can push it under within reason. But near the ends by the shoulder harness exits, there isn't much give and the fit needs to leave a little space for the carpet. I just trimmed it a little more this morning for the third time. I think it's done now.
 

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"One other thing. I mentioned in my last update that the front frame pieces were lining up OK. Turns out not so. I measured from the frame to the wheel lip on both sides (the proper way to make sure the body front is centered) and found that with the body centered the DS QJ mount interferes with the brake cooling duct on that side. So turns out the frame is slightly off just like my last two builds. A big hammer and a wood block bumps it over pretty easily. But need to unbolt a couple things first. Easy enough fix, but also need the body off."

Paul,

Exactly where are you applying the "big hammer"? Love your details and I was just at the stage of pulling the body off to do the trimming of the dash and the cockpit ... Thanks.

Carl
 

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Discussion Starter #289
Paul, Exactly where are you applying the "big hammer"? Love your details and I was just at the stage of pulling the body off to do the trimming of the dash and the cockpit ... Thanks. Carl
With the body off and the Breeze lower radiator mount unbolted, I held a 2x4 block on the outer side of the DS QJ mounting bracket and gave it some solid hits with a dead blow hammer. I needed it moved over 1/2-inch to properly center the body front and eliminate the interference between the DS QJ mounting the DS brake cooling duct. Took 10-12 hits. I'm about ready to put the body back on and hope this is the last adjustment required. For now anyway.
 

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Interesting about the body alignment. I thought my DS was off as well based on the brake duct. As it turned out the body is centered. If I move it over, the lip on the hood opening would be on top of the frame and tires not evenly under the wheel wells. What I finally noticed is that the DS brake duct is actually molded further back than the PS side. If you look straight down from above each brake duct you will see that the DS is further back. Until they added the new front body support brackets this probably wasn't noticed. Don't know if all the MK IV are this way but have noticed it on others as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #291 (Edited)
Interesting about the body alignment. I thought my DS was off as well based on the brake duct. As it turned out the body is centered. If I move it over, the lip on the hood opening would be on top of the frame and tires not evenly under the wheel wells. What I finally noticed is that the DS brake duct is actually molded further back than the PS side. If you look straight down from above each brake duct you will see that the DS is further back. Until they added the new front body support brackets this probably wasn't noticed. Don't know if all the MK IV are this way but have noticed it on others as well.
Sorry I didn't make it clear. I centered the body by measuring the distance from a fixed point on the front suspension to the wheel well lip on both sides (post #278) and at that point the DS QJ point interfered with the DS brake duct opening. That's why it was necessary to move the DS front frame horn over. The body shouldn't be centered using the hood opening, tires, etc.

I agree the DS brake duct is further back than the PS. My other Mk4 was the same way. These bodies are a study in asymmetry.
 

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Discussion Starter #292 (Edited)
First Pass Body Fitting Completed

I've had the body off and on several times in the last couple days, making tweaks along the way, and am now happy with how it sits on the chassis. Now will get it back up on the lift and start fitting and finalizing things. Saw this view when I was on the ladder unhooking my locking rope pulleys from the ceiling. Pretty cool. Starting to really look like something now.

 

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Sweet!
 

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Yeahhhh baby!
 

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Discussion Starter #295 (Edited)
Body Installation Details

Plugging away trying to get ready for paint. Life has gotten in the way a little lately. We’re working on a real estate deal that could be real interesting and an amazing new space to work in. But all very preliminary and we’ll see what happens. Trying not to get my hopes up too much.

Meanwhile, working my way around getting everything set to take to the painter as a completed, fitted build. I’ve said this before, but I’ll say it again. My personal goal is nothing touches the finished paint job that hasn’t been mocked up and fitted before paint. It scares me (as it does the builder) every time I see a forum post about fitting something to a painted body. Even things like side exhaust cutouts, etc. Don't do that! :eek:hmy: Once I was satisfied the body was in the right position front to back and centered side-to-side, first bolted in the rear quick jack mounts. I’m using a bumper and overriders in the back, and only overriders in the front. Using the couplers I previously showed on the back, cut my threaded rod and anchored down the rear. I had to adjust the precut holes a little. But not much. Just have rough hardware on there now, and will add 3/4-inch polished tubes from Finishline later. But not until the trunk lid is fitted and confirm the rear valance is where it needs to be.


For the front, I’m using Finishline grommets and 3/4-inch polished tubes along with the same 7/16-inch threaded rod as in the back. I did this same exact thing on my last two builds and it looks really clean and is amazingly strong. But the grommets need to be located and fitted properly. I propped up the front of the body so it was properly above the 3/4-inch hood surround tubes and the pre-cut QJ holes were properly aligned with the frame brackets. Then located and cut the holes for the grommets, cut the 3/4-inch tubing to the proper lengths, and mocked up the overriders. I like the new brackets that Factory Five designed and provided with this kit attaching the body using the running light location to the QJ bolts. But I'm probably not going to use them. This method is really strong, plus I'm also installing a Dark Water splitter like #7750. That too mounts on the QJ bolts. Just too much going on in there.


Note that since this installation is using threaded rod with nuts on the inside of the overriders, I drilled out the threads in the overrider mounting plates. Also note the angle of the overriders. To be reasonably authentic, they are supposed to be at roughly the same angle as the radiator opening on the body. The bracket welded inside the overriders is at an angle, but not quite enough. Easy enough to tip ‘em just a little more. Finally, this 3/4-inch tube from Finishline is a bit different than what I’ve received from them before. It’s the same OD, but a much smaller ID (thicker wall) and not as highly polished. It will be OK. But the bushings I used before to center the tubes over the threaded rods no longer fit. I used several wraps of aluminum tape over the threaded rods at each end and that was all it took.

I also mounted the Tangent Technologies driving lights and SS grill kit. I showed the completed assembly in a previous update. Now just a case of locating it and drilling four holes for the mounting bolts. I briefly plugged in the Weatherpack and confirmed that it works properly. One of the few remaining electrical items I hadn’t checked yet. All good. Now back in the box until final assembly after paint.


I installed the rear splash guards, also affectionately called elephant ears (for obvious reasons) and they fit pretty good. I think these must be slightly updated from previous ones. For both other builds they were too small and I had to make new ones or there would have been large gaps. Not so with these. I actually had trim them just a bit. Easy. I used my normal nutserts and 10-32 flanged SS screws to attach to the chassis. Haven't started on the front ones yet.


There is a tab on the bottom of the rear splash guards that gets attached to the body. Some guys leave that unattached (thread about that some months ago) but I want it attached. The usual method is a small bolt through the body. Although it’s well around toward the bottom, it still can be slightly visible. I decided on this build to not put a bolt through the body but instead use a 10-32 perforated base stud (97590A567 from McMaster) same as I use on the side louvers. Roughed up the body with 60 grit, cleaned, and bonded with HSRF. I don’t have the nut tightened all the way down, but you can get the idea here:


I prepped the side louvers for installation. I bought the upgraded ones from Factory Five. They’re the same thing as available from Whitby’s, I think also Finishline, etc. I had them silver powder coated when I did all my other powder coating. I attached the mounting brackets to the sides with 6-32 button head screws. The heads of the screws are on the inside and (mostly) hidden behind the louvers. I’ll glue the 10-32 perforated base studs to the body and clean up the opening to match the louvers when I have the body off for undercoat. I did trim a little bit off the base studs because they were too close to the opening.



The last couple days I’ve been working on installing the windshield. These things can be a bit of a pain, to say the least. First order of business was to replace the brass strips in the ends with the SS pieces from Whitby. Those brass pieces are incredibly fragile. I managed to strip one of the holes just checking the fit of the side bars before taking it apart. Get it just a little cross threaded or get too heavy handed and the 2 to 3 turns of threads in the brass are gone. The SS strips went in pretty easily. They come with 10-32 chrome oval head screws. But unfortunately they are too short. (Had this problem on #7750 as well.) They supply 1/4-inch long screws but they need to be about 3/8-inch. Got those, had to adjust a few a bit more, and finally got the side bars attached. Quick note: Lots of scary talk on the forums about breaking the windshields with screws into the frame. Very true for the visor connections along the top. But not for the side bars. Those screws bottom out against the frame and the glass is on the other side of the metal. But still you have to be careful to get them started straight and not over-tighten. Even the SS ones. I trimmed 2-inches off the bottom of each side bar, and worked to get the body openings adjusted. My body is pre-cut, so the initial openings are there. After a few adjustments, the side bars slid into place. Another hint for first-timers: The final body openings are not straight front-to-back. They are angled some. They point out slightly, when looking from the back to the front. Lots of discussion about the right windshield angle. I’m aiming for 27-inches from the top windshield screw to the front of the rear door opening. This, BTW, is the dimension Factory Five provides for their premium top. I haven’t gotten any further. The bars seem to be matching up pretty well with the chassis mounting points, but need to look at this further and finish the mounting. I’ll shim them if needed. The goal is not put any stress on the glass. The good news is the windshield and gasket are fitting the contour of the body perfectly. The best of the builds I’ve had so far.


Last update comment. When Factory Five released their updated Coyote installation instructions to include the 2015 Coyote, they show using spacers on the engine mounts. But two differences from the past. They show using them on both sides. Before it was only on the DS. Plus they designed some new parts that sandwich into the motor mount. Better IMO than the spacer on top of the motor mount. Like their previous version and the Whitby ones I currently have installed. So several weeks ago I called and ordered a set of the new parts. Turned out to take a little longer than expected because the design was just released to production last week, and the first parts cut had to be approved by engineering. But they were ready yesterday, and they shipped them to me overnight. I was pleasantly surprised the spacers are steel vs. aluminum like what I have now. I’m planning to lift my engine just enough with the shop crane to slip out the motor mounts and current spacers, put in the new spacers, and (hopefully) fit the motor mounts back in. Looks pretty open, so I think I can do it without disturbing things too much. Also note the new spacers are 1/2-inch thick vs. the Whitby 3/8-inch thick spacers. This should help me get a slightly better alignment for my headers and side pipes and still keep the oil pan above the frame.


That’s it for now. Tomorrow is the one year anniversary since my kit arrived in the garage. I will never be able to build as fast as some. But I’m very pleased with the progress I’ve made to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #297
Not sure if I missed this in an earlier post but did you decide on a color yet?
I don't remember if I've said before either. Let's just say it's going to look suspiciously like #7750. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #299

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Discussion Starter #300 (Edited)
Motor Mounts and Windshield

Quick update. Yesterday I was able to get the new Factory Five engine mount spacers installed. I don’t recommend trying this on an installed engine. It wasn’t too bad, but certainly would have been easier before the engine was installed. But they weren't available or even known about (at least by me) when I installed the engine. I put the engine hooks back on the Coyote, loosened the motor mount and transmission bolts, and then used my shop crane to lift the engine in place just enough to squeeze out the motor mounts one at a time. The plan worked reasonably well. But once the spacers were installed, took even more clearance to get the mounts back in. Then things tended to go out of alignment a bit. But eventually got the job done, and very happy I did. I like this much better than the separate spacers I had before. The slightly extra height (1/2 vs. 3/8-inch thick) sets the engine up just a bit higher and allowed me to get my header heights from side-to-side nearly perfect and stay even with the 4-inch chassis tubes. Very happy camper and nice improvement by FF.

Here are couple pictures with the spacers installed in the mounts. I put some rattle can paint on them a few days ago before assembly. That bare steel would have rusted pretty quickly.

Passenger side. There isn't a gap between the large spacer and the mount like it looks in this picture. The edge is just rolled a bit.


Driver side:


Today I finally wrapped up the windshield installation. Took a little more time than I expected to get the body cutouts just right. You don’t want the side bars touching the fiberglass body. But also don’t want to get the slots too big otherwise the plates won’t cover them completely or have a place for the mounting screw. Also took a little time to get the side bars aligned properly where they wrap around to the top of the windshield. I ended up with 1/8-inch spacers on both the top and bottom bolts to make the side bars the same width as the chassis mounts and keep from stressing the windshield. I put them on the DS side since it’s a bit easier to reach in there to install them. One tip that makes installing the windshield a whole bunch easier. Probably one of the best tips I’ve tried in a long time. Saw it somewhere on one of the forums and tried it for the first time. Instead of just drilling out the 1/2-inch holes in the windshield side bars, drill them 27/64-inch and cut threads with a 1/2-inch x 13 tap. Easy to cut threads in the brass. That way you only have to put in a bolt from one side in each of the holes when mounting and aligning the windshield. Way easier than bolt + nut + wrench on each side while chasing around a moving windshield. When tightened, they're nice and strong. But I’ll put a nut and washer on each bolt during final assembly.


I’m working my way down the list of final items before paint. Tomorrow I’m going to put in the wipers. The real estate deal I mentioned in my last update is progressing. We have a signed deal on the new place two miles away and now waiting to see if our current homestead will sell. Twice my current workspace, much higher ceiling, plus I can keep my trailer on site. Oh yea, my wife gets what she wanted as well. Hope we can close the deal. It’s a bit of a project but with where I’m at on the build not expecting my timeline to change.

Next week is Woodward Dream Cruise week here in the Detroit area. The world’s largest one-day automotive event, drawing an estimated 1.5 million people and 40,000 classic cars. While officially a one-day event (this year it's August 20th) it's actually pretty much a week long party. I have something going on nearly each day. The Great Lakes Cobra Club will be at the Comerica Bank in Birmingham if anyone wants to stop by. We'll be 60+ cars strong. Good times.
 
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