That is a lot of rubber for sure!
You're going to love that engine. In fifth gear mine pulls from 800 RPM up without bucking. It's very smooth and at 3500 RPM the power from the beast starts to roar...... Coyote powered Mustang. Very impressive. Whet my appetite for the Coyote in the Roadster, to say the least. I think it's going to have enough "go.".....
I appreciate the suggestion, and it's not a bad idea. But quite a bit more expensive ($700) than even the modded TKO. Plus I already have all the other parts for the TKO installation -- Quicktime bell, hydraulic clutch setup, transmission mount, driveshaft, etc. I'm not going to start changing all that around. I've got plenty to work on and waiting for the trans isn't going to affect my overall build schedule.Why not go with a T56? For what you are spending on the Liberty’s Performance TKO600 you'd have a readily-available 6spd capable of withstanding 700 tq and a wider range of gear selection.
To be honest, I never considered anything other than the TKO600. I have the Liberty modded TKO in my current Mk4, and it shifts perfectly. Something that apparently not everyone experiences with the TKO. It would probably be nice, but I've never felt the need for the 6th gear. Plus I too have seen the pics of how tight it is. I know about the built-in bell, but wouldn't be able to return the Quicktime I have already since it's been installed and bottom flange trimmed a bit.I hear you. Just wondering if there was anything better about that particular TKO600 you chose and if the T56 was a consideration. You're choice sounds pretty like a good one.
BTW, the Magnum XL comes with an SFI approved steel bellhousing so the total investment is a lot closer to the Liberty TKO, which is what lead me to go the T56 route myself when the time comes. I hear it is a much tighter fit though.
Anyway, loving your build. Be well.
In my opinion, 6 speeds is overdrive overkill. I have a stock TKO600. Good for 600 FTLB torque. The Coyote torque in stock form with a tune is still a couple hundred below that. So unless you're planning some forced induction (and if thats the case you should have bought the Alluminator) the TKO600 is more than enough insurance. There are lots of threads out there bashing the stiff shifting of the TKO. That's because it doesn't feel like your wife's Miata. Again, IMO, the TKO600 shifts just fine straight from the factory with no mods required.
Just a comment....I first go carted my coyote a couple weeks ago. I've got a TKO 500 and 3.55 rear end. After putzing around the subdivision several times testing brakes and steering I finally started rowing the gears but gave very little gas. On my last pass I was cruising around 1000 rpm in 3rd gear and stepped on the gas for a few seconds!......Pulled hard and had the back end waggle a bit! Cant wait.....You're going to love that engine. In fifth gear mine pulls from 800 RPM up without bucking. It's very smooth and at 3500 RPM the power from the beast starts to roar.
The great thing about these Coyotes is they are very easy to, as you put it, PUTZ around town in at lower revs. But step into it and hold on as the revs go beyond 3,000 -3,500. This is where the engine really starts to build power. And it won't let off until the computer says "that's enough" at 7,000.Just a comment....I first go carted my coyote a couple weeks ago. I've got a TKO 500 and 3.55 rear end. After putzing around the subdivision several times testing brakes and steering I finally started rowing the gears but gave very little gas. On my last pass I was cruising around 1000 rpm in 3rd gear and stepped on the gas for a few seconds!......Pulled hard and had the back end waggle a bit! Cant wait.....
First time I had ever driven a Coyote!
"I’m very satisfied with how it turned out".
Even that is an understatement!
May have missed it, but in the above pics I noticed the brackets at the top of the dash; how did you hang the dash?
The tabs were bolted onto the instrument panel before the covering was applied. They are hung on nut plates riveted to the underside of the 3/4 inch dash tube. I used JB Weld to get them held at the proper location, then riveted through. Back a couple pages in post #171 here: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/5242546-post171.html.I think I remember seeing somewhere that the tabs were mounted with Gorilla glue and they screw into rivnuts under the 3/4" tube.