Yes it would definitely interfere. Worse than that. Based on my measurements, wouldn't even fit into a Roadster hood opening. The cover is 31 inches wide. That's an inch or so wider than the hood opening near the front of the Coyote.Paul do you think the side of that engine cover would interfere with the triple reservoir in a Roadster, require trimming?
great news paul!!!well, big news today. After crawling all over the gen 3 coyote at detroit autorama on saturday, measuring and studying as best i could, looking at build pictures, etc. Came up with a definite maybe that it would fit into the gen 3 coupe. To finally try to nail this down, asked mike everson for more pictures of his gen 3 coupe build with the coyote already installed. Also sent a note to jesper at factory five to see if they've done any cad models with the gen 3 coyote in the gen 3 coupe. I'm two for two with responses. Rather than pictures, mike and i talked through the possible concern, how it compared to his build, available space, etc. The conclusion was the gen 3 coyote should fit. Thanks mike! Literally while i was talking to mike, received an email from jesper also confirming it would fit, and these two awesome cad renderings. He said it was ok to post them. Thanks jesper! I added an arrow to the second pic where there was interference concern. Clearly looks ok.
So, the ball is back in ford's court. Let's get this thing released. Unless availability goes completely south, going to try to make the build happen with this engine.
Love this idea - looking forward to seeing what you do, especially the extra vents in the center dash!I mentioned before this is a pretty simple setup with two outlets on the inside unit. One going to a pair of dash outlets. The other to the two defroster outlets. I am planning to change that up a little. Instead of pointing the two outside outlets down, I’m going to put them on the face of the dash. Then I’m going to add two additional outlets in the center of the dash. I’ll use Y-connections and add them to the defroster hose. That will add more air directly to the occupants versus having half going against the windshield. If more defroster air is needed, just close one or both of the center dash outlets. Not real high tech, but I think a little more user friendly.
I don't know. Since the A/C circuit dehumidifies the air going through it to some extent, I'm not expecting (hoping...) it's a problem. But our air here in MI, while humid sometimes, is nothing like FL. Another aspect, perhaps, is that this system isn't using outside air. It's drawing air out of the footwell and by definition is always in recirculating mode. I don't consider it a problem or worth pursuing because the Coupe is hardly airtight as it is. But perhaps that would make a difference as well? Maybe someone else has actual experience with this.Im curious about the defroster because I have the same issue of not having a dedicated defroster circuit that can be turned on/off. I was going to just put a normal ball vent on the dash but have a feeling that even closed, the leaking AC air will cause condensation on the windshield all the time. (im in FL)
Any thoughts on that? Anyone have that setup in a hot climate coupe?
Running defrost in recirculating mode often results in windshield fogging. Had to educate lots of customers on this in one of my prior lives in the dealershipI don't know. Since the A/C circuit dehumidifies the air going through it to some extent, I'm not expecting (hoping...) it's a problem. But our air here in MI, while humid sometimes, is nothing like FL. Another aspect, perhaps, is that this system isn't using outside air. It's drawing air out of the footwell and by definition is always in recirculating mode. I don't consider it a problem or worth pursuing because the Coupe is hardly airtight as it is. But perhaps that would make a difference as well? Maybe someone else has actual experience with this.
Running defrost in recirculating mode often results in windshield fogging. Had to educate lots of customers on this in one of my prior lives in the dealership
We'll see what happens. I'm not changing anything any further with the A/C - Heat system in the Coupe build. Even though it has a top and more creature comforts than the Roadster (sort of) it's still at the end of the day for me a fair weather car that will be driven in relatively mild weather and not intentionally in the rain. Not exactly the same regimen a DD sees. That plus the not so air tight interior I mentioned earlier. If it's really an issue once I get it on the road (which I'm guessing it won't be, maybe optimistically) wouldn't be that hard to add some kind of blast gate to the defroster circuit. Back to the build...I'm assuming that a coupe caught in a rainstorm is almost undriveable without defroster/defogger and wiper system, and that an AC vent blasting on the WS would clear that up.
The issue Im talking about is the other 99% of the time would the leaking A/C air from the defroster vent cause that annoying water condensation on the outside of the windshield that would then streak up all the time? Anyhow, maybe that's a topic for a seperate post lol.
Hey Mark. I hear you. Sounds a little like Chevy Vega days again, right? Aluminum block without a steel liner. (I was one of their victims. Boy that was a while ago...). But what Ford is doing with the Gen 3 Coyote isn't new and is apparently well proven. It's called the plasma transfer wire arc process. For Ford, they've been using it in the GT500 engine since 2011. It's also used in the latest GT350 Voodoo engine. Now taking it from those lower quantity but high performance engines to the masses with the base Coyote starting with the Gen 3. I'm reading test cases of 250,000 miles and still good. It's also used in the Nissan GT-R and other industries such as aerospace gas turbines. Looks like solid technology. I'm OK with it.I happened upon a Youtube video of some Ford engineers discussing the 2018 Mustang and I think they said it has sprayed or sputtered on cylinder liners to gain a very small increase in the bore and decrease engine weight.
So my question is when has that ever ended well? If that is true and I was in the market for a Coyote (and I am not) I think I would go with the Gen2 and the steel liners.
It's not remotely the same. Hopefully you read my whole post. But that was the first thing I thought of when I read the Gen 3 release info. Mark kind of reminded me of it again. :001_rolleyes:Oh please, not like the Vega! I was in the dealerships when those were new
Yeah, I read your post Paul, and like you the Vega debacle thought crossed my mind upon first hearing of the process until learning moreIt's not remotely the same. Hopefully you read my whole post. But that was the first thing I thought of when I read the Gen 3 release info. Mark kind of reminded me of it again. :001_rolleyes:
No, it's not Nikasil. Here's an interesting article on the process. Even addresses how it's different than the Jaguar event. https://jalopnik.com/5467038/the-ford-engine-technology-good-enough-for-the-nissan-gt-r.From a common Jaguar AJ V8 engine problems list:
The AJ-V8 was designed to use Nikasil-coated cylinders rather than the more-common iron cylinder liners. However, like the BMW M60, high-sulphur fuel reacted with the Nikasil liners and caused engine failures. Jaguar replaced affected engines, and has used conventional cast-iron linings ever since.
Longevity is probably not a real issue in these cars as very few are even close to daily drivers. (exc. Ralph Button )