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I am also planning to get the AC ducts in before going too far with the wiring. I am working on getting the side pipe alignment sorted out first, FFR sent me a set of 351 headers that will get here today, we will see if they fit better. Then I will take the body off and open up the passenger foot box to work on the AC system. There should be lots of space behind the dash with the AC unit in the foot box. Your engine fills the engine bay way more than mine and you have much more wiring to fit, some different issues to figure out.
David W
 

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They have a Gen 3 Coyote crate in an older model Mustang mule. Showed it at PRI in Indy some weeks ago. So seems like they are making a little progress. Of course I have no idea what the electronics/control pack setup is in there. Regardless, I'm becoming more and more convinced that the timing for the Gen 3 isn't going to match my build plan. I agree it's probably months away at least. Plus there's the uncertainty about whether it will even fit in the Gen 3 Coupe. I'll probably be making a decision over the next few weeks, and agree I'll likely be helping with their inventory situation on the Gen 2's. I don't consider that a bad thing at all. Love the Gen 2 in my Roadster. The same thing in the Coupe with the added benefit of the 6-speed T-56 should be excellent.
Aluminator out of the question? I personally would really like to do that myself...
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Aluminator out of the question? I personally would really like to do that myself...
I assume you mean the regular Coyote Aluminator? Looked at it. Thought about it. For my purposes, just not seeing the $3.5K added cost. Out of the box, it doesn't have any additional power. Of course it has more upside with power adders. For more cost plus custom tuning. But for my street driving I'm very satisfied with the stock Gen 2 Coyote in my Roadster. With the revised intake, straight tube headers, and custom tune it's already better than stock. For my street driving, I'm basically never using all of it. Plus if I really want to, guys put power adders on the stock Coyote and within reason it holds up pretty well. I think I'm going to stay with the stock production version. It's all I need, and then some.

I'm also assuming you're not talking about the $16K+ 5.2 XS version. Cool engine and looks amazing. But that's just not happening.
 

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I assume you mean the regular Coyote Aluminator? Looked at it. Thought about it. For my purposes, just not seeing the $3.5K added cost. Out of the box, it doesn't have any additional power. Of course it has more upside with power adders. For more cost plus custom tuning. But for my street driving I'm very satisfied with the stock Gen 2 Coyote in my Roadster. With the revised intake, straight tube headers, and custom tune it's already better than stock. For my street driving, I'm basically never using all of it. Plus if I really want to, guys put power adders on the stock Coyote and within reason it holds up pretty well. I think I'm going to stay with the stock production version. It's all I need, and then some.

I'm also assuming you're not talking about the $16K+ 5.2 XS version. Cool engine and looks amazing. But that's just not happening.
Well, after all the Gas Monkey hype with the Pantera and FFR Coupe - both getting the XS, I was kicking the idea around a bit. But yeah - the Gen 2 does plenty in our light cars...thanks for the splash of reality :)
 

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Well, after all the Gas Monkey hype with the Pantera and FFR Coupe - both getting the XS, I was kicking the idea around a bit. But yeah - the Gen 2 does plenty in our light cars...thanks for the splash of reality :)
I think having Discovery Channel paying the bills turns these decisions into "no brainers" ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #46
IRS Completion Plus

Pretty good week for the Coupe build. On Monday Factory Five shipped two big boxes of backordered parts. Wednesday the FedEx parts delivery truck arrived. I’m down to two missing parts for the entire kit. Headlight covers and side pipes. One apparently a vendor issue, the other waiting to get through the shop at FF. Neither will hold up my build for many months so no more excuses. For the record, that’s just short of seven weeks from kit delivery to basically all the parts needed. That includes holidays, blizzards, etc. In hindsight, not too bad I guess and probably pretty typical. Doesn’t make it any easier though and I don’t claim to be the world’s most patient person. But it’s done and behind me now and will soon be a distant memory.

The main parts I was waiting for were the three sets of IRS arms and a couple bolts. With those in hand, I completed the IRS assembly pretty much the day the parts arrived. Not too much to say about all this. For the Gen 3 Coupe, they all appear to be the same parts as used on the Roadster, so it was a bit of a re-run putting it all together. This has all been pretty thoroughly documented before, so I’ll spare the blow-by-blow description. Four tips from my side though: (1) Grease the fittings before assembly. Pump the grease until it comes out the little holes in the ends and then smear it around on the poly bushings. This not only makes sure the joints are properly greased, but makes it a bit easier to assemble. (2) Figure on spreading all the tabs. I used the threaded rod/washers/nuts technique described by others and mentioned before. Works great and doesn’t mar the powder coat. Doesn’t take much, so don’t overdue it. But spreading them out slightly fixes where there is zero or less clearance (pretty common) and also just makes it a bit easier to assemble. (3) I did find the UCA was probably 1/8-inch or so too narrow. There was no way that was going to go in with spreading the tabs, grease, a big hammer, whatever. I used my floor jack to spread the UCA's and that worked great. They hook between the front axle and lift pad of the floor jack and after a couple tries they slid right in. The bolts went in fine as well so bending them out just a bit didn’t misalign anything. Likely just had moved a little when welded. (4) Finally, the tapered bolts I talked about in the Anniversary Roadster build thread continue to be a huge help to get everything in and aligned. For anyone putting this suspension together for the first time, just prepare yourself. Everything is really TIGHT and it can be a bit frustrating. But it works and is a beautiful thing when it's all together.

Once the IRS assembly was completed, fitted up the Wilwood rear brakes. Those are kind of fun to work on. The instructions are excellent and the parts fit perfectly. Went through the steps to shim as described. Ended up with no shims on the mounting bracket, and only one shim under each caliper mounting bolt. Alignment and centering appears to be perfect. Nice job Wilwood. Still need to run the e-brake cables.

With that done, completed both sway bars. I didn’t have the mounting bushings until this last part shipment, so couldn’t do the front before. Now was able to complete both. I backed off the coilover springs and used a 2x4 and a floor jack to push the suspensions through their travel. I confirmed the rod ends for both front and back are basically perpendicular when the suspensions are at ride height. They angle in/out when the suspensions are full up or down, but confirmed they did so without binding.

Not much else to say except post pictures. I’m really happy with the POR15 black painted knuckles. Blends right in with everything else and looks nice. Absolutely nothing gained or meaningful, but I don’t care. I like it. I followed my usual practice of putting a red paint dot on each bolt as the final torque value was set.





This is a pretty cool view of the underside of the chassis. Shows once again how different the Gen 3 Coupe is from before and also from the Roadster. Also shows how nice it is to have a lift.


This is the completed sway bar on the front suspension. Not much to see here. The mounting is different than the Roadster on the front of the 4-inch tubes. Other than that, very similar.


So really big news on another front. As described in my first post, the intended engine for this build is a Gen 3 Coyote. Even though I have several contacts at Ford, still no definitive word on when the crate version will be released. Their policy is that release dates are provided right before the actual release. There was some chatter on the forum that they haven’t even started the PCM programming and the crate version might not even be released this year. Based on feedback I’m getting, that doesn’t appear to be the case. Best guess remains first or second quarter this year. Maybe as late as summer. Since I’m just a few weeks away from really wanting the engine and trans for mockup, I’ve been talking to myself about going with the Gen 2 Coyote. That’s an awesome engine and love it in the Anniversary Roadster. But a part of me didn’t want to give up on the Gen 3 idea. Then I had a brainstorm that if could get a Coyote block, even a scrap one, I could mount the bell housing and transmission, put the assembly in the chassis, and proceed with the build. Would buy me some months at least. Long story short, I was able to obtain a loaner Gen 2 block! It has a hole in the side right next to where it looks like #7 had a bit of an incident. I have to give it back, but no time limit. This absolutely meets my needs. In the next weeks, I’m going to get the T-56, bell, etc. and drop this into the chassis.


I’ve been working on lighting – all LED – and will report about that probably in my next update.
 

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Great update as always!

I didn't think about using a jack to spread the upper control arms, so I'll give that a try.
You're really making me wish I had a lift like yours too - the pictures you're getting are acting as my references so I don't have to keep crawling on the floor under mine!

Also, nice job finding a spare block. I've already found my spare to be useful so I'm glad to see you can progress on everything else while you eat up the time waiting for the Gen 3 engine.

Do you have a time limit on the Gen 2 vs Gen 3? Seems like you could even do bodywork, interior work, A/C setup, etc. but I'm sure the bug will get to you at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Do you have a time limit on the Gen 2 vs Gen 3? Seems like you could even do bodywork, interior work, A/C setup, etc. but I'm sure the bug will get to you at some point.
Yea, having the block and being able to mock up the drivetrain opens up lots of work possibilities. Fuel lines, brake lines, wiring harness, aluminum panels including powder coat and Lizard Skin, interior, rear storage box, just to name a few. Body work is certainly another possibility. I only like to do that when it's warm so I can take it outside. This will easily get me to summer. I'm planning just to keep my ear to the ground on the Gen 3. Hopefully by summer it should either be released or at least have a better idea when it will be.
 

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Once the IRS assembly was completed, fitted up the Wilwood rear brakes. Those are kind of fun to work on. The instructions are excellent and the parts fit perfectly. Went through the steps to shim as described. Ended up with no shims on the mounting bracket, and only one shim under each caliper mounting bolt. Alignment and centering appears to be perfect. Nice job Wilwood. Still need to run the e-brake cables.
FWIW, on my '33 with the IRS and Wilwood brakes I found that the e-brake cables had to run under the diff, not over as shown in the manual. The cables just weren't long enough to route over the top. (Also, I agree that all of your assembly tips and kudos to Wilwood apply to the '33 versions as well!) Keith
 

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Discussion Starter #50
FWIW, on my '33 with the IRS and Wilwood brakes I found that the e-brake cables had to run under the diff, not over as shown in the manual. The cables just weren't long enough to route over the top. Keith
I don't have them installed yet. But I've starting mocking up the provided e-brake cables. They are plenty long enough to reach over the top of the diff. Same as on my Roadster. I received Dorman C95240 cables. Dorman lists them for Ford Mustang 1998-94. Cable length: 70.98 inches, conduit length: 65.63 inches.
 

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I had to cut about 12 inches off my cables and crimp new ends on them. On the coupe with the irs and Wilwood brakes you only need 4 or 5 inches of cable length more than the sheath.
David W
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I had to cut about 12 inches off my cables and crimp new ends on them. On the coupe with the irs and Wilwood brakes you only need 4 or 5 inches of cable length more than the sheath.
David W
Agreed. The cables FF provided are 71 inches long, conduit 65-1/2 inches long. Difference of 5-1/2 inches. Dorman C95240 as mentioned previously. I already know they're going to work without modification. They must have supplied different cables for yours.
 

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So really big news on another front. As described in my first post, the intended engine for this build is a Gen 3 Coyote. Even though I have several contacts at Ford, still no definitive word on when the crate version will be released. Their policy is that release dates are provided right before the actual release. There was some chatter on the forum that they haven’t even started the PCM programming and the crate version might not even be released this year. Based on feedback I’m getting, that doesn’t appear to be the case. Best guess remains first or second quarter this year. Maybe as late as summer. Since I’m just a few weeks away from really wanting the engine and trans for mockup, I’ve been talking to myself about going with the Gen 2 Coyote. That’s an awesome engine and love it in the Anniversary Roadster. But a part of me didn’t want to give up on the Gen 3 idea. Then I had a brainstorm that if could get a Coyote block, even a scrap one, I could mount the bell housing and transmission, put the assembly in the chassis, and proceed with the build. Would buy me some months at least. Long story short, I was able to obtain a loaner Gen 2 block! It has a hole in the side right next to where it looks like #7 had a bit of an incident. I have to give it back, but no time limit. This absolutely meets my needs. In the next weeks, I’m going to get the T-56, bell, etc. and drop this into the chassis.
.
Keep the faith on that Gen 3, there are a lot of us counting on you :)
 

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Discussion Starter #55
LED Lighting Plus

My plan for this build is for all LED lighting, exterior and interior. It’s bright, draws low current, and lasts a long time. If you believe the claimed hours, probably the lifetime of the car. That’s what I did with #8674, and after living with it for a year, like it a lot. Fortunately, Factory Five did provide some LED fixtures with the Gen 3 Coupe kit. So that’s a good start. The Speedhut gauges, as most probably know, are a combination of electroluminescence panel and LED needles. So nothing to do there either. For the rest, I’ve been studying and shopping for the last few weeks, and think I have everything nailed down.

The first thing you learn when you start looking is that the market is inundated with LED lights. Of every size, kind, and variety. Most from China which is no surprise. The second thing you learn is a very high percentage of it is low quality, even junk. The third thing is that a lot of what’s advertised as automotive related is not DOT/SAE compliant. Whenever you see the words “for off-road use only” it’s pretty certain it’s not DOT/SAE compliant. For some builders, this doesn’t matter and their inspection/titling/registration process doesn’t check for it. For others, it is a big deal and could keep the build from being titled. In my case, even though not checked in Michigan, I still chose to use only DOT/SAE compliant fixtures. Just prevents any issues down the road, and in very general terms, I found lights with these ratings were generally higher quality.

Another criterion for me is that I wanted the lighting to look traditional or classic as much as possible. There are a lot of fixtures out there, especially headlights, that are very modern looking with halo rings, integral turn signals, etc. Nothing wrong with that if that’s what you’re going for. I’ve seen some of those products on cars at London and elsewhere. It’s pretty cool especially when done along with other modern style touches. But not my thing for this build.

After a couple purchases and returns, I found LED products from Maxxima to generally be decent quality. As you’ll see when I talk details, some of the lights from Factory Five and also Watson’s Streetworks are from there. For LED headlights, here the market seems especially flooded. You can find bulbs from $20 a pair to ten times that and more. As I found out, it matters. On #8674, I have the LED headlight package from Watson’s Streetworks. They are Hella H4 Vision Plus lenses with LED replacement bulbs. They’re excellent. I’ve got a lot of driving on them in #8674. They’re bright, crisp, and make driving at night easy compared to the stock flashlight halogens. But at $249 a pair, I thought I could be clever and do the same thing for less. Bought the same Hella lenses, and some highly rated LASFIT H4 LED bulbs from Amazon for $60. You know the old cliché about you get what you pay for? After just a few minutes, realized these were not good and exercised Amazon’s quick and simple return process. They weren’t very bright and the light pattern was all over the place. After a lot more looking, reading, watching YouTube videos, etc., bit the bullet (budget? What budget?) and went for a pair of GTR Lighting Ultra Series 3rd Generation LED H4 bulbs. Arrived today and I’m very happy with them. Quality seems outstanding. Here they are installed in my kit provided headlight parts and Hella lenses.


Unlike some other products on the market, they use an external driver that won’t fit inside the bucket. But there’s an in-line connector so they install in the plastic kit buckets through the regular grommet with the driver mounted on the outside.

For the rest of the front lighting package, FF provided four Maxxima M09300Y marker lights and M50112 SS covers for the running and turn signal lights that go in the covered headlight area. For the fog/driving lights used on the Coupe, FF provided a pair of halogen lights. They’re a little small for the opening and power hogs. My 12+ amp power supply won’t light a single fixture. Plus no DOT/SAE markings. After a lot of looking, I went with KC HiLiTES 493 4" Gravity LED fog lights. They’re slightly larger and seem to be excellent quality. Again, not cheap (recurring theme??) but I think will be perfect. I’ll need to fab something to mount the flat base to the round interior of the opening. But that will be easy. They have a tilt adjustment screw, so will be easy to aim. Because of the low current draw, don’t take heavy wiring or relays. They came with a very nice harness including Deutsch weatherproof connectors. This is the entire front lighting package:


For the rear lights, FF provided the LED running/turn signal/brake light fixtures. These are a super nice setup made up of United Pacific Industries ’37 Ford taillights (that’s right!), trim rings, gaskets, and a mounting bracket held in with an internal snap ring. They are quite bright. Very happy with these.


For the rest of the rear lights, I think I’m going to do a 3rd brake light buried in the spoiler. I have a Maxxima M63319R 9 LED light bar that I’m tentatively planning for that. I have a smaller version that I might use but expect will go with this one. I’m planning to install a back-up light. I’ve chosen a Maxxima M42206 14 LED surface mount fixture. Finally, there’s the license plate light that FF provided with an incandescent bulb. I cut out the bulb socket and replaced it with an MAL-S-WW2 LED license plate bolt from superbrightleds.com and two SS fender washers. One on the front and one on the back. Easy mod and works great. This is the same LED license plate bolt used on #8674 and other builds to mod the Roadster license plate light bracket.



This the entire rear lighting package:


Last but not least, for the interior I’m going to install footwell lights on the underside of the dash, like I’ve done before, tied to the courtesy light circuit. Twisting the headlight knob will turn them on and off. For those, I’ll be installing Watson’s Streetworks L96WCL white LED lights from Maxxima. Also, not lighting related, but the interior will have a 12V accessory outlet and a dual USB outlet. These fixtures are from Blue Seas Systems. Always decent quality.

That’s it for all that. Will be a while before most is installed. But for now I think it’s all sorted out. As for the actual build, yesterday I completed the e-brake cable installation. Couple of slight glitches with the provided Dorman cables. I had to trim a bit off the end of the crimped piece at the calipers. Interfered with the provided Wilwood connector parts. No big deal and plenty left to hold. At the e-brake handle, the cables were actually a bit short. Wouldn’t reach the male/female rod ends coming off the handle assembly. Using a hacksaw and leftover rod ends from #8674 because I had used a Lokar piece on that build, I cobbled together a 3/4-inch extension, and all is good. The e-brakes work perfectly.


Finally, spent some time yesterday aligning the IRS. It looked really wonky plus I wanted to do a sanity check on wheel spacing while the body was still on the chassis. Got the rear alignment really close I think, but will check it again when I have a rolling chassis. Most Gen 3 Coupe builders have reported the tires tuck in too far on the body, and at least a 1-inch spacer is needed. With #8674 sitting there with the same wheel/tire package I’m planning for this build, I hijacked the rear wheel/tires for a couple hours to complete the alignment and check how they fit to the body. I too found that spacers are needed. Minimum 1-inch. Maybe even a bit more. Most everything I found was either 1-inch or 1-1/2 inches. I went with the 1-inch. Ordered Eibach 90.4.25.010.3 Pro-Spacer hub centric 1-inch spacers. These are 09-2014 Mustang parts. Hub spacing is the same as the 2015+ and has the same 1/2-20 lug nuts as the rest of the build. A little pricey, but these are critical parts and I’ve been very happy with the quality of Eibach parts in the past.

Today I started work on mounting the radiator and the first sheet metal pieces on the radiator tunnel. I have some fitment issues I’m working through, including the small opening and angle for the lower radiator hose. I’ll figure it out. Also looking at other builds. Next week I’m planning to order my T-56 and bell and prepare to drop in the engine mock-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Are you going LED for dash indicator lights? I think the ability to dim them would be a requirement as they would most likely be blinding at night otherwise.
Yes. Forgot about that. They also will be LED's. The Speedhut gauges already have turn signal and high beam LED's built in. I've tested them and they're not super bright. Pretty sure they'll be OK as is. I'll be adding two additional LED's -- MIL (Multifunction Indicator Light, aka Check Engine) for the Coyote and an indicator for the cooling fan. I like to see a light when it's switched on and running. I haven't picked the exact lights because I'm still designing the dash. Not worried if the MIL is too bright. In general, LED indicators are pretty easy to tone down by putting a resistor in the +12V feed.
 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
Radiator Tunnel Plus

Since the last update, got out the #30 drill bits and clecos and started at it. First up was the radiator tunnel. This is where we get to play how many clecos does it take.


I mentioned in my last update that I had a couple of fitment issues with the radiator tunnel. Two things. First, initially I couldn’t get the radiator down far enough for the top mounting bracket to sit down properly on the frame rails. The solution was to trim 1/8-inch off the back edge of the lower radiator channel. (not sure what to call it…) That allowed the radiator to push down just enough to get the top mounting bracket installed. Second is the angled lower radiator outlet. With the radiator centered in the lower mounts, the outlet is obstructed and it would be very difficult to get the lower radiator hose properly attached. Sliding it over toward the driver side helps, but then the lower mount on that side interferes. This is also mentioned in another build thread and it was suggested to bend the ear on the mount enough to push the radiator over. That’s what I did. You can see it if you look closely at the picture above. Some of the powder coat peeled off when bent that much. No surprise. I'll touch it up with gloss POR15. Matches perfectly.

It’s still going to be challenging to get the lower radiator hose installed, but I think it will work. Kind of ironic. I struggled with three Roadster builds. The Afco radiator used on those had a straight lower outlet, which points the lower radiator hose right at the frame tow hook mounts used on Roadsters. The newer angled radiator solves that problem very nicely. But sure would be nice to have a straight lower outlet on this Coupe build instead of the angled one. I think it would work much better. Oh well. These don’t show the issue too well, but this is the area in question. From the front and the back. The lower radiator hose will still be pressed against the square frame member. But I think it will go in. I’m planning to check out the Boig Motorsports upper and lower Gen 3 Coupe Coyote hoses. Hopefully they’ve taken this limited space into account.



This is the radiator tunnel with the mockup basically complete. You can see how it's off-center to the driver's side. I’m using a radiator shroud from Breeze. It’s tight, but it works. Now back apart and out for powder coat.


Couple more updates. Yesterday my Corbeau seats arrived. We went with the red stitching version. Very happy with how they look. These have pre-installed seat heaters, which I tested and work OK. Only pull 3.6 amps each on either high or low. So shouldn’t be any trouble finding a circuit for them.



Today my 1-inch Eibach rear wheel spacers arrived. Super nice quality and perfect fit. I’ve very impressed. Made in Germany actually. No surprise the existing wheel studs are longer than 1-inch, so protruded through the spacers. But I knew the FF wheels had indents between the lug holes on the back side of the wheels, so assumed they would fit. Well, we all know about assume. The indents of the wheels didn’t line up with the protruding studs so of course the wheels wouldn’t mount properly. So back apart and out with the air cut-off tool. Took it slow and easy (no choice since those tools are air hogs) and trimmed the ends off. Wheels mount perfectly. I'm probably going to put some of the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black I've been using elsewhere on them. They do show a little through the spokes of the wheel. Can't have that. Kind of of stand out against the black Wilwood brakes.


Family activities the next couple days. But back at it next week. Pretty happy with the progress two months in. Ready for spring, but staying warm working in the garage.
 

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Nice progress Paul!
I like those seats, they would’ve looked really nice in my car but the gen 2 does not have enough room for them.
Top notch so far.
Are you going to go with the classics color scheme then?

John
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Nice progress Paul!
I like those seats, they would’ve looked really nice in my car but the gen 2 does not have enough room for them.
Top notch so far.
Are you going to go with the classics color scheme then?

John
Thanks. Still considering several options for the color and color scheme. Red is a leading contender (big surprise, I know), thinking about stripes or no stripes, almost for sure no numbers or sponsor stickers. Thinking clean and modern sports car look vs. race car look. But still lots of time to decide, and change my mind.:mf_w00t1:
 
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