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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
For anyone building one of these with the IRS, you might as well leave the metric studs in place and buy nuts for them. You will need to use spacers in the back unless you buy custom wheels. Just buy the spacers with the normal 1/2-20 threads. now all your lugs will be the same unless you remove the spacers.
Mike
Thanks Mike. That would certainly work if someone didn't want to change the studs and that would be a good option. $20 or so for 10 metric lug nuts isn't going to break the bank, but I decided to go ahead and replace the studs with the kit provided 1/2-20 studs since I already had them and a relatively easy way to swap them.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Center Section Installed Plus

Today I was able to get the IRS center section installed into the chassis. Rather than using the shop crane and lift straps like the last time, I decided to try using my new lift to lower the chassis onto the diff. So piled a bunch of moving blankets, towels, etc. onto a cart and gave it a shot. Lowering the lift little-by-little as it went into position. Worked pretty well. I still found it necessary to hold the nose up as I was getting into the final position, so used a lifting strap on the Coupe’s built-in lift location (roll bar cage). Wouldn’t have been necessary with a helper. But by myself probably couldn’t have gotten it in without the added assist. Plus I was trying not to beat up my paint too much. Even though the chassis is very different than the Roadster, the installation is very similar. You need to point it up into the opening and get it into position with the center section front mounts above the chassis mount bushings. Then lift the rear up, get those bolts started, and drop (push, pull, tug, pry, etc.) the front down to the bushings and put those bolts in. Sounds easy enough, but once again found it was very tight. Eventually everything lined up OK, bolts went in with the help of the drift pins I made for the last build, and it’s all torqued down. Very happy to have that chunk where it belongs.





Couple other things I’ve been working on. Spent yesterday assembling the hats and rotors for the Wilwood brakes, then completing the safety wiring. Torqued the 12 bolts in each to the specified 155 inch/lbs and used a little red Loctite. I’m careful to not go overboard with that stuff. I’m far from an expert doing safety wires. This is only my second time. The first being the same Wilwoods on #8674. The location of the bolts is not very friendly to thread the .032 lock wire. The wire tends to catch in the edges of the holes which is easy to do since the bolt heads are next to and below the rotor. I tried something I read about in another build thread. I very lightly chamfered the four small safety wire holes in each mounting screw. I used a 3/32-inch drill in my drill press and just touched the edge on each. I think it made the wire a little easier to thread. But it still a little tedious. Four completed rotor assemblies:


I like using a fan shroud on the radiator. I saw in Mike Everson’s Gen 3 Coupe build thread that he used a fan shroud and confirmed that it fits OK. So I got the one that Breeze provides. Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing. First thing up was to install four 10-32 nutserts for the fan mounting. I found out my fan tunnel sheet metal is different than Mikes, but it still fits OK. I checked with Factory Five, and they made a couple changes. I’m still waiting for my radiator mounting bracket. So will finalize this assembly once it’s received.


Also got the e-brake handle assembled and installed. This is the in-house designed and built handle Factory Five has been using for several years now instead of the previous Mustang handle. I have one in #8674, and it seems to work fine. I do like to make a couple minor changes though. I swapped the provided nylon bushings for bronze oilite bushings. Seems more robust to me, but then maybe that’s a little old school. I also used a 10-32 bolt instead of the provided slotted spring pin for the pawl pivot. Again, just personal preference. I also added a couple washers on each of the pawl piece. Keeps it centered a little better. The Gen 3 Coupe has the e-brake on the tunnel. A common mod for Roadsters. It’s very nicely executed with a mounting bracket for the e-brake handle. The usual angled mounting brackets for the handle aren’t used. The cable routing is along the top of the tunnel and then around to the rear brakes. Direct and simple. I like it.


Received word that IRS control arms are out for powder coat, and the powder coater is down for the holidays. So I’m probably at least a week away from getting them. I’ll keep plugging away on smaller stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Gas Tank and Interior

Been busy with New Year’s activities plus it’s been just crazy cold. But got a couple things done.

First was the gas tank. Prepped the tank by flattening out the edges where they’re bent for the straps when installed in a Mustang. Many miss this line in the manual. Especially important for the new Coupe. More later.

I’m using the Pro-M Racing High Flow Fuel Pump Hanger for 1986 – 1997 Mustangs. It has full 3/8-inch line for both the feed and return lines, 6AN fittings the fuel line connections, and the return tube goes to the bottom of the tank. I used this same hangar on #8674 and it’s a very nice quality piece. Their website has an interesting video that shows it in action. Not cheap, but the only hangar I know about with these features. It does require a couple of reliefs to be cut into the opening in the tank so it can go in and out. But it’s clearly explained in their instructions. I used a Dremel with a shop vac sucking up as many chips as I could while trimming. Then using the shop vac and compressed air made sure the tank was 100% clean afterwards. I haven’t purchased the actual pump motor yet. Probably will be a Walbro GSS340 255LPH pump, also the same as #8674. But waiting until the engine selection is finalized and confirm that’s the right one. So I just put the hangar in without the pump for now.

Then added the sender from the kit, after checking it electrically, installed with the O-ring as the FF instructions state but also added a little Permatex Form-A-Gasket sealant. I’m using the Breeze big bore vent-check valve, as in previous builds, and also used a genuine Motorcraft part for the filler neck to tank seal. It’s Ford part number F4ZZ-9072-DA. Both are upgrades from the kit provided parts. Maybe not required, but easy to do now compared to later and stuff I've had good experience with.

Then put the tank into the chassis. This is where the Coupe is a little different than the Roadster. The Roadster has four plastic bumpers that the tank is held against with the straps. The Coupe only has the front pair. The rear lip of the tank, and also some on each end, rest directly on chassis tubes that surround the tank area. Makes a very solid mounting which I really like. I am concerned though about the metal-to-metal contact. There is a roll of 1/16 x 1 inch self-adhesive neoprene type cushioning material in the kit. But I can’t find anything about it in the manual. For the tank installation itself, nothing is mentioned about any cushioning other than the bumpers. Maybe that material is supposed to used for the tank, but I don't know. I just have the tank in temporarily right now, and will have it back out to install the pump and finalize everything. I’ll add some cushioning around the perimeter at that time. I’m actually thinking 1/8 inch thick would be a little better. Easy get from McMaster if necessary.

I did notice one small issue. With the tank in place, the normal location for the filler neck retainer is covered up by the chassis tubes the tank is resting on. My first thought is to attach the retainer to the chassis tube, probably on the outside edge, instead of the tank lip. We'll see when I actually install the filler neck later in the build.

With the tank in place, I’m looking at a design for a storage bin over the lower section of the tank like I and many others do on the Roadster. First pass thinking of 23 wide x 16 long x 5-1/2 deep. I’m also planning a folding door over the top since it’s open under the hatch glass. For appearance and also for security. All easy enough to fab, bend and rivet. There will be no cutting of chassis tubing like some do with this mod on the Roadster. The Coupe tubes in this area are bigger and much heavier gauge. Obviously major structural elements, and I’m not touching them. The bin will fit around them, same as I did on #8674. It’s still very functional.


The tape marks are where I'm planning the storage bin. Then 16 inches forward from there. Then a 2-piece carpeted door that folds forward. Similar to what Dark Water used to provide.


Today I starting mocking up and thinking about how I want to do the interior and specifically the dash. I’m going to stick with the stock layout for the most part, but have a number of ideas on how I’m going to do it. I’ll share as I finalize more. I put the Speedhut gauges in the dash panel. Put some power to all and they appear to be working. Light up, needles swing, GPS acquires, etc. I've been looking at what seats I want to use. Right now seriously considering the Corbeau Sportline Evolution X. Still more research to do though. I have the standard low back Roadster seats that came with the kit as placeholders right now. But I've never planned to use them permanently.



This planning and scheming part I especially enjoy.
 

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Hi Paul,

If an anti-submarine belt is important to you, may I suggest the OMP Style Sport Seat? The OMP also has an adjustable recline. It's a little taller than the Evolution X, so you may not have the head room to make it work though. I have no affiliation with OMP, though I do have a pair of their seats.

Cheers,


John

P.S. I love your build threads. Even though I have no intention of building a coupe - at this time :wink2: - I'm following this thread closely.
 

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As far as seats, I chose the Corbeau CR-1 in microsuede and had them add the adjustable lumbar support. I plan on doing multi-day drives in mine and wanted something I would be comfortable for long drives. Might want to look at those..
 

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Discussion Starter #26
If an anti-submarine belt is important to you, may I suggest the OMP Style Sport Seat? The OMP also has an adjustable recline. It's a little taller than the Evolution X, so you may not have the head room to make it work though.
As far as seats, I chose the Corbeau CR-1 in microsuede and had them add the adjustable lumbar support. I plan on doing multi-day drives in mine and wanted something I would be comfortable for long drives. Might want to look at those..
Thanks for the seat suggestions guys! Much appreciated. Number one feedback from my wife for this build is not to have the racing seats like FF prototypes we've looked at. Too low and for her especially too hard to get in and out. Plus we both want something that looks a little more "finished." Spent several hours yesterday surfing looking at multiple options, measuring the available space in the cockpit, etc.

The OMP's look interesting. On my short list. Those Corbeau CR-1's look interesting as well. Those have nearly the same exact dimensions as the Sportline Evolution X ones I'm also considering. You have the CR-1's in a Coupe right? How do they fit? Is there room for them to recline and also the reclining handles and mechanisms? I'm assuming not a Gen 3, but expect the Gen 3 to have as much or more space.
 

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I took careful measurements of the seats versus the stock and they should fit well in my GEN 3. I do not anticipate any issues reclining or using the sliders and should have some pictures ready in a few weeks with the seats in. the day they came in, I pulled one out and sat in it. they are very, very comfortable. Note this seat is for waist of 38" or less
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I took careful measurements of the seats versus the stock and they should fit well in my GEN 3. I do not anticipate any issues reclining or using the sliders and should have some pictures ready in a few weeks with the seats in. the day they came in, I pulled one out and sat in it. they are very, very comfortable. Note this seat is for waist of 38" or less
Cool. So you do have a Gen 3. Wasn't sure. I'm close to pulling the trigger on something. Will decide soon. The 38" waist thing is OK. I won't say by how much, but it's OK. :rolleyes:
 

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Ed has this issue of the Dash gauges being obscured been fixed on the gen 3?
Can't tell from the pics exactly what the driver view is.


 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Ed has this issue of the Dash gauges being obscured been fixed on the gen 3? Can't tell from the pics exactly what the driver view is.
I'm very early in mocking things up. Don't even have seats yet so can't confirm 100% this is the view from sitting in the seat. But I think it's close. Tach and speedo are in good shape even with the thicker steering wheel. The smaller gauges not as good. When things get more finalized, I may put them in different holes so that the most important ones (e.g. oil pressure, water temp) have the best view. But I think it's going to be OK. The scribbling on the dash of other stuff is very preliminary. Looking at various options right now.

 

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On my Gen II, I put the removable steering wheel on upside down and you can see the gauges just fine. Great job as always,

Glen
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Electrical and Seats

I’m still waiting for parts so I can finish the front and rear suspension and running out of smaller tasks. Parts are promised to ship this week. So, decided to dive into my electrical plan and wiring. Did a written plan of all my brainstorm ideas so far. Than started to work on some of the parts. I’m not going to finalize or attach anything until the suspension and engine/trans are in place. Just too many differences compared to the Roadster builds for me to know exactly where things should go. That includes wiring, fuel lines, and brake lines. First, the manual has limited detail. Second, and this is really different, it’s pretty much required to run the fuel and brake lines through the transmission tunnel. General forum advice on Roadsters, and I’ve said it myself several times, is to not put fuel and brake lines in that area due to moving parts, e.g. the spinning driveshaft. But with the new Coupe chassis design, it’s basically the only choice. Otherwise you’d have to go under the chassis at one or more points, making the fuel and/or brake lines the lowest points on the chassis which is completely unacceptable. But just theory until I can mock things up with the engine and trans in place.

For the electrical, as I mentioned in an earlier update, the Coupe build manual has basically nothing about the Ron Francis harness supplied with the complete kit. The Ron Francis manual mainly describes the Roadster. Some similarities, but also quite a few differences. The harness itself is used for the Roadster, Coupe, and Hot Rod. So it’s a bit generic and as I’m finding, needs a little tweaking to fit into the Coupe the way I want it.

First up is the fuse panel. Looking through several build threads, pictures on Factory Five’s website, and looking at the videos of builds including the Snap-On build, can see the fuse panel is typically mounted upside down on the left side in the general area of the driver’s left knee. Same as the Roadster. An aluminum panel is provided to mount the fuse panel, slightly different than the Roadster version I think. But unlike the Roadster that has two sides for mounting to the frame, the Coupe only one side. I decided this would be a little floppy for my liking, so fabbed and added some braces along the bottom sides, attached with solid aluminum rivets peened with a hammer. It will attach to the back of the frame rail in addition to along the bottom edge.


Determined the location and installed five 10-32 nutserts. Most of the frame components on the new Coupe are thicker tubing than the 3/4 and 1 inch thinwall tubing on the Roadster. Initially I was just going to tap 10-32 threads into the tubing. Probably would have been OK with at least 2-3 threads. May still end up doing that elsewhere. But since the fuse panel is a little heavy and don’t want it going anywhere, went ahead and added the nutserts. The added braces work well and make it solid enough. One thing that becomes really obvious with the pedal box and fuse panel in place is that the driver’s side footbox is going to be really jammed. It’s tight in the Roadster. But even tighter here.


After this picture was taken, made my first attempt at installing the fuse panel and the accompanying harness branches. Pretty much confirmed what I suspected. I’m going to need to unwrap a lot of the main harness and adjust some lengths and breakouts of some of the branches. Partly to make it neater plus maximize space since I will also have air ducting behind the dash. But also just to make things reach. I’m already a little concerned about the front harness. But I’m not going to tear into that any further because the other variable here is the Coyote harness. It also has to fit into the same space. I’ll wait until that’s on hand and put all the puzzle pieces together then.

I also spent some time on the rear harness. That I was confident enough about that I unwrapped it, made some changes, and wrapped it back up again. I’m going to install a single backup light under the rear running lights on the left side. So added wires to/from the area of the backup light switch on the T-56 I’m planning. Also with the T-56, it has a reverse lock-out solenoid. Lots of discussions about this on various forums. My plan is to use it exactly as designed with a module (there are several available) that senses speed and locks out reverse when the vehicle is in motion. So added wires to/from the area of the reverse lockout solenoid on the T-56. Finally, I adjusted the breakouts at the back and shortened the fuel pump and fuel level sender branches about 22 inches each because they’re way too long. All to best fit how I’m planning to route the rear harness along the right side of the transmission tunnel and to the right around the planned storage box above the tank. This is a pretty rough picture, but the harness is wrapped back up and laying in the approximate position it will be secured when the time comes.


On a related note, every build needs to have some new tools, right? I picked up a Power Probe III that replaces several individual tools used while doing electrical work. This could become my next favorite tool. Measures voltage, continuity, plus can power circuits. I know a lot of people struggle with wiring. This might help if you have a basic understanding of electricity. This promo video shows what it does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=181&v=GdH-e4Q9p5k. I bought the unit plus the cable kit. I like it.


The other kind of big deal with this update is my seats. I mentioned before we wanted something other than racing seats. But also something that sat up a little higher than the Factory Five demos we’ve sat in. Plus something that didn’t block the entrance or exit too much. Desirable for me. Pretty much mandatory for my wife if she’s ever going to ride in this thing. After a lot of review, I ordered a Corbeau Sportline Evolution X 64901FBS seat. As I also mentioned before, we want heated seats and Corbeau has the option of ordering them with the heater already installed. But at that point they become custom and non-returnable. A little dangerous without ever seeing or trying one. So I ordered a stock seat with the intention of returning it and ordering the custom heated version if it fit OK. I didn’t receive any advance shipping information (vendor drop ship through Summit) but today FedEx left a big box on my snowy porch. I was like the Dad on Christmas Story opening his major award getting that thing out of the box and into the cockpit of the Coupe. Good news. It fits.


We like it a lot. Looks good and is comfortable to sit in. Just what we were going for. A couple more details. Corbeau has two versions of this seat. One with an adjustable back and one with a fixed back. This is the fixed back version and as suspected I think it’s best for the Coupe. I believe they will spend most of their life back about as far as they'll go. So an adjustable back wouldn’t be usable then anyway. Plus without the mechanism for the seatback, the corners clear the harness attachment points and fits between nicely. Of all the dimensions I was most concerned with, the cushion width on the front was listed as the same as the available space in the cockpit. With insulation and carpet added, wasn’t sure how it would work. But turns out it fits with clearance on each side. So all OK there. The one interference is the side of the headrest at the top pushes slightly into the roll bar cage. The headrest on this seat is slightly wider than some other seats, and turns out it does contact the bar. But the cushion there is soft, so even if it touches or pushes into it a little, not an issue. Corbeau has three different height sliding bases for this seat. After trying several heights with wood blocks, looks like the lowest one will be just right. All the way back, there’s an inch or two more space than the Roadster with the standard seats all the way back. There won’t be a lot of forward adjustment. Probably 2-3 inches. That works perfectly for us. I tried the seat in both driver and passenger side. Both OK. Also confirmed it sits at the right angle, especially important on the driver side, e.g. square to the steering wheel and dash. All good. I’ll get the custom ones ordered.

Our forecast for a mild winter has been anything but that so far. Multiple below zero days, multiple times following the snow blower up and down our driveway. You know, the standard Michigan drill. The heater in the garage keeps it comfortable when I’m working out there. But still thinking about warmer weather already.
 

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I really like the look of those seats in the coupe. Do you still have the Kirky high back seats that you can take a picture of the two side by side? Since I'm going to be really space constrained already, I'm not sure these would ever fit in mine, but I love the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I really like the look of those seats in the coupe. Do you still have the Kirky high back seats that you can take a picture of the two side by side? Since I'm going to be really space constrained already, I'm not sure these would ever fit in mine, but I love the idea.
Sorry, I don't have any Kirkey seats. I received standard Roadster seats with my kit, and have since sold and shipped them.
 

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I’m still waiting for parts so I can finish the front and rear suspension and running out of smaller tasks. Parts are promised to ship this week. So, decided to dive into my electrical plan and wiring. Did a written plan of all my brainstorm ideas so far. Than started to work on some of the parts. I’m not going to finalize or attach anything until the suspension and engine/trans are in place. Just too many differences compared to the Roadster builds for me to know exactly where things should go. That includes wiring, fuel lines, and brake lines. First, the manual has limited detail. Second, and this is really different, it’s pretty much required to run the fuel and brake lines through the transmission tunnel. General forum advice on Roadsters, and I’ve said it myself several times, is to not put fuel and brake lines in that area due to moving parts, e.g. the spinning driveshaft. But with the new Coupe chassis design, it’s basically the only choice. Otherwise you’d have to go under the chassis at one or more points, making the fuel and/or brake lines the lowest points on the chassis which is completely unacceptable. But just theory until I can mock things up with the engine and trans in place.

For the electrical, as I mentioned in an earlier update, the Coupe build manual has basically nothing about the Ron Francis harness supplied with the complete kit. The Ron Francis manual mainly describes the Roadster. Some similarities, but also quite a few differences. The harness itself is used for the Roadster, Coupe, and Hot Rod. So it’s a bit generic and as I’m finding, needs a little tweaking to fit into the Coupe the way I want it.

First up is the fuse panel. Looking through several build threads, pictures on Factory Five’s website, and looking at the videos of builds including the Snap-On build, can see the fuse panel is typically mounted upside down on the left side in the general area of the driver’s left knee. Same as the Roadster. An aluminum panel is provided to mount the fuse panel, slightly different than the Roadster version I think. But unlike the Roadster that has two sides for mounting to the frame, the Coupe only one side. I decided this would be a little floppy for my liking, so fabbed and added some braces along the bottom sides, attached with solid aluminum rivets peened with a hammer. It will attach to the back of the frame rail in addition to along the bottom edge.


Determined the location and installed five 10-32 nutserts. Most of the frame components on the new Coupe are thicker tubing than the 3/4 and 1 inch thinwall tubing on the Roadster. Initially I was just going to tap 10-32 threads into the tubing. Probably would have been OK with at least 2-3 threads. May still end up doing that elsewhere. But since the fuse panel is a little heavy and don’t want it going anywhere, went ahead and added the nutserts. The added braces work well and make it solid enough. One thing that becomes really obvious with the pedal box and fuse panel in place is that the driver’s side footbox is going to be really jammed. It’s tight in the Roadster. But even tighter here.


After this picture was taken, made my first attempt at installing the fuse panel and the accompanying harness branches. Pretty much confirmed what I suspected. I’m going to need to unwrap a lot of the main harness and adjust some lengths and breakouts of some of the branches. Partly to make it neater plus maximize space since I will also have air ducting behind the dash. But also just to make things reach. I’m already a little concerned about the front harness. But I’m not going to tear into that any further because the other variable here is the Coyote harness. It also has to fit into the same space. I’ll wait until that’s on hand and put all the puzzle pieces together then.

I also spent some time on the rear harness. That I was confident enough about that I unwrapped it, made some changes, and wrapped it back up again. I’m going to install a single backup light under the rear running lights on the left side. So added wires to/from the area of the backup light switch on the T-56 I’m planning. Also with the T-56, it has a reverse lock-out solenoid. Lots of discussions about this on various forums. My plan is to use it exactly as designed with a module (there are several available) that senses speed and locks out reverse when the vehicle is in motion. So added wires to/from the area of the reverse lockout solenoid on the T-56. Finally, I adjusted the breakouts at the back and shortened the fuel pump and fuel level sender branches about 22 inches each because they’re way too long. All to best fit how I’m planning to route the rear harness along the right side of the transmission tunnel and to the right around the planned storage box above the tank. This is a pretty rough picture, but the harness is wrapped back up and laying in the approximate position it will be secured when the time comes.


On a related note, every build needs to have some new tools, right? I picked up a Power Probe III that replaces several individual tools used while doing electrical work. This could become my next favorite tool. Measures voltage, continuity, plus can power circuits. I know a lot of people struggle with wiring. This might help if you have a basic understanding of electricity. This promo video shows what it does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=181&v=GdH-e4Q9p5k. I bought the unit plus the cable kit. I like it.


The other kind of big deal with this update is my seats. I mentioned before we wanted something other than racing seats. But also something that sat up a little higher than the Factory Five demos we’ve sat in. Plus something that didn’t block the entrance or exit too much. Desirable for me. Pretty much mandatory for my wife if she’s ever going to ride in this thing. After a lot of review, I ordered a Corbeau Sportline Evolution X 64901FBS seat. As I also mentioned before, we want heated seats and Corbeau has the option of ordering them with the heater already installed. But at that point they become custom and non-returnable. A little dangerous without ever seeing or trying one. So I ordered a stock seat with the intention of returning it and ordering the custom heated version if it fit OK. I didn’t receive any advance shipping information (vendor drop ship through Summit) but today FedEx left a big box on my snowy porch. I was like the Dad on Christmas Story opening his major award getting that thing out of the box and into the cockpit of the Coupe. Good news. It fits.


We like it a lot. Looks good and is comfortable to sit in. Just what we were going for. A couple more details. Corbeau has two versions of this seat. One with an adjustable back and one with a fixed back. This is the fixed back version and as suspected I think it’s best for the Coupe. I believe they will spend most of their life back about as far as they'll go. So an adjustable back wouldn’t be usable then anyway. Plus without the mechanism for the seatback, the corners clear the harness attachment points and fits between nicely. Of all the dimensions I was most concerned with, the cushion width on the front was listed as the same as the available space in the cockpit. With insulation and carpet added, wasn’t sure how it would work. But turns out it fits with clearance on each side. So all OK there. The one interference is the side of the headrest at the top pushes slightly into the roll bar cage. The headrest on this seat is slightly wider than some other seats, and turns out it does contact the bar. But the cushion there is soft, so even if it touches or pushes into it a little, not an issue. Corbeau has three different height sliding bases for this seat. After trying several heights with wood blocks, looks like the lowest one will be just right. All the way back, there’s an inch or two more space than the Roadster with the standard seats all the way back. There won’t be a lot of forward adjustment. Probably 2-3 inches. That works perfectly for us. I tried the seat in both driver and passenger side. Both OK. Also confirmed it sits at the right angle, especially important on the driver side, e.g. square to the steering wheel and dash. All good. I’ll get the custom ones ordered.

Our forecast for a mild winter has been anything but that so far. Multiple below zero days, multiple times following the snow blower up and down our driveway. You know, the standard Michigan drill. The heater in the garage keeps it comfortable when I’m working out there. But still thinking about warmer weather already.

Paul - everything looks great! Seats look very cool and comfortable!

Jeff
 

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Like my Anniversary Roadster build, this will be a Coyote build. Just can’t say enough good things about that engine in these cars. The Roadster is just awesome with the Gen 2 Coyote it has. With the 2018 Mustang, now in production, Ford introduced the Gen 3 Coyote. More power (of course!) and some interesting new features. Somehow Gen 3 Coupe and Gen 3 Coyote has a nice ring to it and I enjoy trying new stuff. Ford is saying they will have a crate version of the Gen 3 Coyote “sometime” in 2018. I will stay on top of it and hopefully that will work out.
Paul I started a conversation with Mike Forte regarding what I need for my build and he just checked with Ford Performance about the 2018 Coyote and they told him they haven't even started the design of the new electronics/control pack yet because they "have so many 2nd gen Coyote's left to sell". When asked for an ETA they said "no time soon". Mike's thoughts are it may be Nov/Dec, maybe.

We both will probably be helping to clear out those Gen 2's for the next crowd of builders. But at least the Gen2 is a known entity.
 

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Paul
I put the fuses in the same spot you did and ran the wire harness up and to the right of the steering column, tight but it fits. There is not much room for the front harness to fit around the master cylinders and I have not yet cut the hole for it in the front foot box aluminum. I am using Forte's mechanical throttle linkage and I want to get it in and finalized before fitting the wire harnesses. There is room for the fuel lines high on the right side of the transmission tunnel, run the back brake line and wire harness high on the left side.
The Coupe build is different than the roadster and I think the Gen 3 has some new challenges or as I refer to it as "fun" I know we are all a little crazy. I have had a few people half joking tell me "you know you can just buy a car already built"
Cold here some days as well, a few mornings -34C or about -27F glad I put a heater in like yours.
David W
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Paul I started a conversation with Mike Forte regarding what I need for my build and he just checked with Ford Performance about the 2018 Coyote and they told him they haven't even started the design of the new electronics/control pack yet because they "have so many 2nd gen Coyote's left to sell". When asked for an ETA they said "no time soon". Mike's thoughts are it may be Nov/Dec, maybe.

We both will probably be helping to clear out those Gen 2's for the next crowd of builders. But at least the Gen2 is a known entity.
They have a Gen 3 Coyote crate in an older model Mustang mule. Showed it at PRI in Indy some weeks ago. So seems like they are making a little progress. Of course I have no idea what the electronics/control pack setup is in there. Regardless, I'm becoming more and more convinced that the timing for the Gen 3 isn't going to match my build plan. I agree it's probably months away at least. Plus there's the uncertainty about whether it will even fit in the Gen 3 Coupe. I'll probably be making a decision over the next few weeks, and agree I'll likely be helping with their inventory situation on the Gen 2's. I don't consider that a bad thing at all. Love the Gen 2 in my Roadster. The same thing in the Coupe with the added benefit of the 6-speed T-56 should be excellent.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Paul
I put the fuses in the same spot you did and ran the wire harness up and to the right of the steering column, tight but it fits. There is not much room for the front harness to fit around the master cylinders and I have not yet cut the hole for it in the front foot box aluminum. I am using Forte's mechanical throttle linkage and I want to get it in and finalized before fitting the wire harnesses. There is room for the fuel lines high on the right side of the transmission tunnel, run the back brake line and wire harness high on the left side.
The Coupe build is different than the roadster and I think the Gen 3 has some new challenges or as I refer to it as "fun" I know we are all a little crazy. I have had a few people half joking tell me "you know you can just buy a car already built"
Cold here some days as well, a few mornings -34C or about -27F glad I put a heater in like yours.
David W
Thanks for the hints. Much appreciated. I'm not going to do too much more with the harness until I know what's required for the heat/AC ducts plus the Coyote harness. For the DS footbox, also have to keep the brake and reservoir lines in mind. One thing I'm pretty seriously considering for the front harness is to remove the connectors and hard wire it to the main harness. That would save some space and make it easier to snake through there. We'll see.
 
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