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1st RFM/FFR Legacy Winner
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Damn!
 

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Cobra Colorist
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Oh paw ! That's so perddy....make a great grajiasion present....make all the kin folk N-V-ous...:surprise:.....what the hell was that! One look at that engine and I went full hillbilly:frown2:...that has only ever happened once before and it was thrown out on a technicality >:)...da Bat
 

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I can't believe how powerful these builds will be getting! My build has a 1/3rd of that HP, and I'm already excited about how much fun it's going to be. I may get up to 1/2 of that HP one year in the future.....but 785HP out of the box??!! God Bless Ya
 

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If you are going to boost a coyote, it seems to me the edelbrock (or another positive displacement sunk into the engine valley) is the way to go.

Turbos are great, but packaging them in a roadster with the enormously wide coyote is going to be a nightmare.

Most of the coyote centrifugal superchargers hang off the drivers side, and would interfere with the frame and/or footbox. There are a couple attached to the front of the engine (vortech), and these may be workable in a roadster, but getting air to the inlet could be a challenge with the radiator just infront of the blower.

Back to the e-force. Packaging is ideal for the roadster. The air inlet to the blower in the stock coyote location. You can get an air to water intercooler integrated into the blower, hang the cooler infront of the radiator and run. The E-force isn't the biggest and baddest on the market, but you'll find the limits of a stock bottom end before you run out of boost capability. That makes it less expensive than competitors, when the limit is going to be the bottom end anyway.

Can you tell I've thought this through a couple times? >:)
 

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Man Cave Master Craftsman
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Always dreaming of building another...

How do we know we can we keep this engine cool, whether on a track or in stop-n-go traffic?

:surprise:
 

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Always dreaming of building another...

How do we know we can we keep this engine cool, whether on a track or in stop-n-go traffic?

:surprise:
A street supercharged engine does not produce abnormal heat unless under boost. It does take an efficient cooling system to pull the heat down after extended boosted runs. A heat exchanger with pump and good fans will keep the after intercooler temps tolerable. These ECUs monitor intake air temps and control a/f, timing and if drive by wire, throttle openings. I know this sounds like it is taking a lot of driver control away, but it is necessary to make 6-700 plus hp on pump gas. I have 2 supercharged cars. Heat is the second worst enemy of a s/c engine. Fuel quality is #1 IMO. I try to buy my fuel from the same place, prefer Sunoco and blend canned gasoline with that. Also be aware that canned fuel and pump gas may have different specific gravity. In short that means they will separate. You can be in a boosted pull sipping 96+ octane and get a hit of that ragged stuff you bought for 91 octane. The good thing is most of the fuel systems are "return" which will blend the fuel to some degree. I also do not add something like 100 or 110 octane, which would be a wider gap in the 2 possible octanes. I got to rambling again, sorry. We can handle the heat.
 

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Man Cave Master Craftsman
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A street supercharged engine does not produce abnormal heat unless under boost. It does take an efficient cooling system to pull the heat down after extended boosted runs. A heat exchanger with pump and good fans will keep the after intercooler temps tolerable. These ECUs monitor intake air temps and control a/f, timing and if drive by wire, throttle openings. I know this sounds like it is taking a lot of driver control away, but it is necessary to make 6-700 plus hp on pump gas. I have 2 supercharged cars. Heat is the second worst enemy of a s/c engine. Fuel quality is #1 IMO. I try to buy my fuel from the same place, prefer Sunoco and blend canned gasoline with that. Also be aware that canned fuel and pump gas may have different specific gravity. In short that means they will separate. You can be in a boosted pull sipping 96+ octane and get a hit of that ragged stuff you bought for 91 octane. The good thing is most of the fuel systems are "return" which will blend the fuel to some degree. I also do not add something like 100 or 110 octane, which would be a wider gap in the 2 possible octanes. I got to rambling again, sorry. We can handle the heat.
Exactly what railroad said, having previously raced a supercharged T-Bird (Super Coupe) I learned that keeping boosted engine temps under control and intake temperatures down also meant more horsepower and it's the reason why I've taken a few extra steps with updated radiator and intercooler fans, coolant pumps and shrouds to help keep things cooler, as for engine management I'll be all too happy to let the computer handle all the vitals.
 

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Alrighty then, beautiful engine but the hp? Seriously that is a lot and have to wonder how frequent the tire changes will be.
 

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Alrighty then, beautiful engine but the hp? Seriously that is a lot and have to wonder how frequent the tire changes will be.
I cannot take credit for this analogy, but it goes like this, I buy a 200 watt stereo, but seldom if ever approach the max output, sorta like 700 hp. You like knowing you have it at hand.
 

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Man Cave Master Craftsman
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I cannot take credit for this analogy, but it goes like this, I buy a 200 watt stereo, but seldom if ever approach the max output, sorta like 700 hp. You like knowing you have it at hand.
Analogy still true, I couldn't have said it better myself :grin2:

I just got a shot of it at the FF5 Huntington Beach 10th Annual Cruise-In event, it's a very clean design, almost too clean since you couldn't actually see the supercharger itself, unfortunately they wouldn't start it up even though the crowd wanted to hear it run.
 

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It depends on how you plan to use it. Maybe you want to take your stereo to car stereo competitions where you can really crank it up? And every so often when driving, you might pull up to someone at a stop light who thinks they have a pretty loud stereo, so you blow their doors off. We are still talking about stereos, right?

But I will completely agree, you need to have the appropriate supporting hardware. If all you hear from the outside is a rattling trunk lid from the base, you just look like a fool. Similarly, the FFR chassis likely won't handle that power level with grace. You'll look like a fool getting sideways at the 1/8th mile mark or when you inevitably break the rear end or transmission that wasn't built up.

I cannot take credit for this analogy, but it goes like this, I buy a 200 watt stereo, but seldom if ever approach the max output, sorta like 700 hp. You like knowing you have it at hand.
 

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Junior Charter Member
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the FFR chassis likely won't handle that power level with grace.
I think the chassis will handle that power just fine. As you said, the supporting hardware will have to be appropriate though, as with any build. The lower torque (compared to hp) should help keep it more manageable.
 
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