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Discussion Starter #1
can someone direct me to the thread with the ebrake pulley mod?
I remember reading it somewhere but can't seem to locate it with the search engine on the forum.
I'm having the same difficulties that others have noted with clearance with the aluminum panels.
I'm going to try to rivet the panel closer to the tunnel frame or try to swing the brake out a bit as others have suggested.
 

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Edwardb has an ebrake pulley mod, It is on his 20th anniv. build posts 140 and 144 I did it and it works well.
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Edwardb has an ebrake pulley mod, It is on his 20th anniv. build posts 140 and 144 I did it and it works well.
JR
thanks
for some reason, the "search this thread" option on this forum sucks. if i type in "brake", it tells me that there are no results found. I had to manually search through the thread to find it.
 

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I agree with you Chewy. Search is not good. Especially with a generic search. No one wants to flip through hundreds posts to find the info. I try for every question I ask and I don't think I have been successful once finding info from past post.

I tried for dash install and vintage gauges. Well every thread has the word dash in it. Lol

I will keep trying though. For me it's usually user error. Eventually I will get it. Lol
 

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I just google what I’m searching for and end the search with “ffcars.com”. Google does the rest! The advanced search in this site stopped working awhile ago.
 

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I just google what I’m searching for and end the search with “ffcars.com”. Google does the rest! The advanced search in this site stopped working awhile ago.
GOOGLE, is built right into the site... GO TO THE BOTTOM of the page. Jeese how hard can it be :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
GOOGLE, is built right into the site... GO TO THE BOTTOM of the page. Jeese how hard can it be :surprise:
not seeing the google link
do I need to be in classic mode? i'm currently in full mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ebrake success

I ran the ebrake cables under the tube for now. i'm able to actuate the brakes! seem to have good clearance from the trans tunnel panel as well after riveting the aluminum to the 3/4 tubing to create space.

do you guys run the cable behind the rear shocks and then come in below the axle? I feel this is the most natural way to run them. How do you keep them from interfering with the shocks? should I zip tie to the upper arm of the 3 link?

and my understanding of the pulley mod is to cut the end of the cable than goes into the clevis to shorten it, and then use the lokar clevis, right? any issues with those set screws gripping the cable? does anyone crimp something on the end of the cable to prevent it from slipping?
 

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Google

It's in the "Bookmarks" bar just below the last post - on the right

Doc :beerchug:
 

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Here are direct links to the e-brake pulley mod:

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/5174929-post140.html

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/5186017-post144.html

Some, including me, don't care for routing the cables under the chassis tubes. I've heard where some states with stringent safety inspections don't like them. Not the case for me. Just prefer a more direct route. Does mean cutting the existing crimps off and clamping using the Lokar clevis. The Lokar piece is made for this, and helps perfectly in my experience. Now driven 3 seasons with this setup and it's been flawless. The build thread is an IRS setup with Wilwood brakes. There could be differences with yours, so can't give any specific advice for how to route around the axle and to the calipers. Typically isn't an issue though.

And x-whatever to using Google for searching the forums. Either from within the forum itself or from the Google page directly. I use Google for searching the forums all the time and it works great. The forum search engine is pretty worthless.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here are direct links to the e-brake pulley mod:

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/5174929-post140.html

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/5186017-post144.html

Some, including me, don't care for routing the cables under the chassis tubes. I've heard where some states with stringent safety inspections don't like them. Not the case for me. Just prefer a more direct route. Does mean cutting the existing crimps off and clamping using the Lokar clevis. The Lokar piece is made for this, and helps perfectly in my experience. Now driven 3 seasons with this setup and it's been flawless. The build thread is an IRS setup with Wilwood brakes. There could be differences with yours, so can't give any specific advice for how to route around the axle and to the calipers. Typically isn't an issue though.

And x-whatever to using Google for searching the forums. Either from within the forum itself or from the Google page directly. I use Google for searching the forums all the time and it works great. The forum search engine is pretty worthless.
What kind of bolt did you use? It looks like a plastic cap on the end in the pictures.
 

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What kind of bolt did you use? It looks like a plastic cap on the end in the pictures.
I assume you mean the bolt holding the pulleys seen in the last picture. It's the same carriage bolt from the earlier pictures. I just ground the head down flat a little so it didn't interfere with the cockpit aluminum panel. Not sure it's necessary since the aluminum isn't tight against the frame at that point. It was just a precaution.
 

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not seeing the google link
do I need to be in classic mode? i'm currently in full mode.
Mine shows at the top under the banner
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
What kind of bolt did you use? It looks like a plastic cap on the end in the pictures.
I assume you mean the bolt holding the pulleys seen in the last picture. It's the same carriage bolt from the earlier pictures. I just ground the head down flat a little so it didn't interfere with the cockpit aluminum panel. Not sure it's necessary since the aluminum isn't tight against the frame at that point. It was just a precaution.
How'd you get the square hole for the carriage bolt in the 3/4 tube? Did you drill a round hole then pound it in with a hammer?
 

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How'd you get the square hole for the carriage bolt in the 3/4 tube? Did you drill a round hole then pound it in with a hammer?
Round hole and then quick work with a file to square the corners. Takes a couple minutes at most. I don't pound things typically. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Does the lokar clevis HAVE to be shortened? Can't I just shorten the cables? Won't the tension even when relaxed keep it in a semi horizontal position?
 

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Does the lokar clevis HAVE to be shortened? Can't I just shorten the cables? Won't the tension even when relaxed keep it in a semi horizontal position?
Your choice. One of the challenges of this mod is that with the length of the arm on the lever, the Lokar clevis can hang up in the e-brake mounting bracket area. The shortened clevis, plus the holes are off-center if you look closely, minimizes this possibility. Nothing would be lost by trying it in the stock form and see if you're happy with how it works.
 
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