Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Routing my e-brakes and am concerned about how tight the bend is on the drivers side.

Black cable tie is "temporary" while I sort this out, and until I find something a bit better to keep the e-brake cable out of the shock coils.

And yes - rear shock is mounted "coils down" due to interference when I mounted them months ago - and it was suggested via Forum inquiries that mounting in this manner would be "OK" from a shock operation perspective.

Sidebar: I've recently seen pictures of Luis' "Immargheritis" Anniversary car with his Koni shocks mounted "coils up" which MIGHT eliminate my current "tight e-brake cable radius concern, but I thought I'd check for Forum wisdom re: the tightness of the e-brake bend "as-is" before I pull the shocks and try (again :( ) to mount them "coils up".

Thanks

Lynn
 

Attachments

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
983 Posts
e-brake cable routing

I have a Mk 3 with the caliper mounted forward as yours is. I routed the e-brake cable on the outboard side of the shock. It is held away from the shock by zap strap(s) to one of the frame members (3/4"). The e-brake cable allows a relatively wide arc close to the gas tank and then back over the top of the differential.

If you just lay the cable on the outside of the shock is there a "natural" position or loop that the cable wants to lay that provides clearance with only minor tweaking?

Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
926 Posts
Well, it should function there without any trouble, but I would be a little worried about it rubbing on the spring, and possibly getting caught between the spring loops if it came loose from its mounts. I think I would follow a path around the back side of the spring / shock if I had room to run it there without interference with the fuel tank.
Just my thoughts…….

:confused1:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the feedback/responses.

Yep - I agree ... "outside" (behind) the shock would be much better, but doing so with the e-brake cables I'm using (FFR supplied with the complete kit) result in the e-brake cable being "inside the radius" (between the coils) of the shock spring.

And with the cable "inside" the spring, the shock ain't gonna work right, and the spring and/or e-brake cable absolutely has a very strong potential (probability!) of being damaged.

One solution - in addition to reversing the mounting position of the shock ... e.g. mounting the shock "spring up" ... would be to simply get a longer e-brake cable for the drivers side.

Suggestions of finding a longer e-brake cable ... part number or ??? Probably would need to be 3 - 4 inches longer (I haven't measured ... yet)

Thanks again

Lynn
 

·
Not a waxer
Joined
·
12,098 Posts
Can you let it approach like this rather than holding it up along the top of the axle tube?



I like to bring the brake cables through the unused UCA mounting ears on the axle center. I drill a hole in the center of tapered rubber stoppers then silicone them into the old bushing holes. This holds the cables securely with no other fasteners or clamps and allows them to make a more gradual curve to the forward mounted calipers:



Good luck Lynn!

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I reversed the shock (so the springs are "up") and it's a bit better.

Hard to see in the attached picture, but the cable is NOT touching the shock body, and the bend is gradual enough to allow (temporary) attachment to the 3/4 tube with a zip tie. (The e-brake cable slides through the zip tie to where it'll touch the shock body - so the zip tie approach isn't going to work long term).

Still not as happy as I'd like to be ... think a slightly longer e-brake cable might be the answer. Inner e-brake cable is plenty long, but the outer at 48 inches is the problem. Rough measurement suggests an outer at 51 - 52 inches long would be better.

I'll take a look at Jeff's routing - which appears to be between the shock body and the axle tube - which without the shock springs being in the way eliminates any damage potential to the shock springs / e-brake cable. Unfortunately, my axle doesn't have those unused UCA "ears" which is a great thing to use in routing of the cables.

BTW - when I reversed the shock, I was reminded that conflict when mounted "spring up" is that the spring hat slightly "touches" the chassis with the suspension fully "drooped". Hopefully when the car is on the ground and the ride height set properly, it'll be "OK". We'll see ....

Thanks again,

Lynn
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update ... with final routing

I used the routing Jeff suggested (he always has great ideas and suggestions! Thanks ... again!) and it looks like it'll work fine now that I've reversed the shocks to be "springs up".

Plenty of clearance now as seen in the 1st couple of attached pictures.

I used a left over fuel line clamp to attach the DS cable to the axle bracket so it'll not slide around and contact the shock. I may still switch to a rubber lined clamp if I can remember to pick one up that is the right size next time I'm in town.

I think the passenger side routing is good without a clamp and I ran it through a hole in the "banana bracket" (3rd picture). It may need a bit of something (split fuel line perhaps) on the edges of the bracket hole to minimize chaffing of the cable housing over time.

Thanks to all who contributed to the solution.

Lynn
 

Attachments

·
Snake Farmer
Joined
·
10,396 Posts
Makes sure and fit a wheel/tire on the car, to check it doesn't rub the cable. Looks OK, but check it..:)
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top