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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm taking my driveshaft in to have it cut down and was just wondering. I had to slot my motor mount frame pads to move my motor forward in order for my Tristates headers to fit my footbox. Should I cut my driveshaft 1/2" longer to compensate? Could someone measure the distance from the rearend flange to the transmission housing length on a normal installation? Mine is exactly 12 inches.

Thanks,
Brian

[ May 24, 2004, 08:09 PM: Message edited by: blinn ]
 

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Brian,
Mine was 11-1/2" from the flange to the tranny output shaft. I just had my driveshaft cut down a few weeks ago. Sounds like your 1/2" guess is correct.

You may want to consider taking it to Carolina Driveline in Spartanburg instead of Clines. Clines told me mine was too short for them balance but Carolina Driveline could. Plus they're cheaper - should be around $55 for a cut and balance. Clines is $72 for the cut/balance.
 

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Brian, if you moved your engine forward did you check where the exhaust comes out with respect to your body exhaust cut out? There isn't much room before you intersect with the wheel well flare.
Measure twice, cut once.
Bob Mac
FFR3981
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Woverine,
Thanks, where is Carolina Driveline located?

Bob,
I know that did occur to me as well but I had no choice. I couldn't even bolt up my headers because they hit the footbox. I was told that it was FFR's error that the frame plate must have been welded incorrectly but if my distance from rearend to transmission is now off I don't think it was FFR's problem! Unfortunately I won't be mounting the body for quite some time yet to find out if I'm in trouble.

Brian
 

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I can't imagine FFR making that kind of mistake, as everything is welded on a jig.

I would call FFR or one of the builders, ie: Gordon Levy and see if they have ever had that type of problem. Also, ask them for the measurment from the front of the 4 inch tube and where the motor mount is welded.

Mike
 

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Brian, Try taking a few measurements it should get you in the ball park of what to expect. Take a measurement from the chassis body mount hole by the door to the front of your header flange. Measure your side pipe flange to the actual exhaust side pipe tube. Subtract the two and you have the distance to your exhaust pipe to the bolt hole. Now go measure your body from the same hole forward to the side pipe opening cut-out. It should give you a good idea of the side pipe position relative to the cut-out and the fender flare. Hope this helps.
Bob Mac
FFR3981
 

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I had to move my engine forward an inch to clear the foot boxes. 351W 4x4 headers. Need to get my drive shaft extended. If it ain't one thing it's another.
 

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Larry which 4 into 4's ??

I have a 351W with FFR 4 into 4's (Hookers) (supplied around July last year) and have plenty of space between headers and footboxes and even have Whitby's Foot Box extension in place too, no issue on body cutouts at all, or Driveshaft length.

My 351 W is a 1970 block, and have McLeod scatter shield with T5Z box.
 

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Don't know if there hookers, but the numbers on the flange are the right numbers for 351W. I posted about it but nobody seemed to have an answer. It seems some people have problems and some people don't. Moving the engine forward an inch helped, but it's still close to the boxes.
 

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Blinn, one of the other builders close by just went thru 2 sets of header pipe exchanges with FFR that were the wrong positon WRT the footbox. So it is possible for the fixture or something to be off.
Bob Mac
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bob,
I am almost 100% certain that the problem is with the Tristates headers and not the position of the mounting pad on the frame. Tristates is not selling the Kooks 4x4 headers/sidepipes anymore so I was told that I could not exchange them for another pair.

Brian
 
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