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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a RIDGID double flaring tool P/N 345DL, because I read it was the best to do brake line flares. Will it dosn't seem to work very good. Ive tried about 20 differint ways to set up the tubing end but all it seems to do is ball up the end of the tubing, so when I do the second swage all I get is a 1/32 to 1/16 fold on my double flare. I'm using the line that came with the kit from FFR. But I allso tried doing some original brake line from a 89 mustang and a 95, and thay all do the same thing. Is there a even better tool? Some of my lines are new pre flared lines, but I still need to do some myself. HELP!!

Thanks in advance


Larry Davidson
 

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I had the exact same problem. When I looked at the head of the flare tool, it had a big gouge in it after one flare. That was on a Rigid tool.
I've gone to 3 other places in my area looking for a flare tool. Every time I ask if I return the the tool if I don't like it, they all say NO.

Let us know if you find anything that works.
 

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My Rigid, same model, has been rock solid. Did you chamfer the ends of the tube before the first flare? Proper reveal on the tube from the clamping bar? Little dab of oil on the die for the first flare?
 

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You have the double flaring tool for soft metal - copper, aluminum, etc. The tubing included in the kit is aluminized or galvanized steel. Ridgid's website (www.ridgid.com) designates certain flaring tools for steel, stainless, and other hard metals. This may be your problem. I did some looking around a couple months ago, and the hard-metal flaring tools are very difficult to find and are rather expensive, but they're also supposed to be bullet-proof. They also have special benders for hard metal tubing with longer handles. Good luck.

[ November 11, 2002, 12:13 PM: Message edited by: Cobra3657 ]
 

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Slightly OT but if doing ALL new pipes you will also need a bubble flare tool. Even though the double flared ends seem to fit into the master cylionder, this is not correct.

All of the pipes that go into the master cylinder require a bubble flare, not a double flare. You can tell which is required by looking into the female side that the pipe is to be screwed into. If you see a seat in the middle, (like all the female receptors in the portioning block) then you need a double flare. If however the female portion is just a round bottomed receptor then a bubble flare is required.
 

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Larry, maybe your lines are slipping on you. I used an el cheapo tool with the following trick and had picture perfect flares.

Also for the bubble flare(s) at the MC, you can buy an adapter.


Good luck and take care,
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Craig, The RIDGID is actually a better tool


Robert, Tried inside, outside, Flat, oil, with out oil, Longer, shorter I even took a 1/4 adapter and turned it down to fit the ID of the tube tighter.

Cobra3657, The RIDGID web says it will do mild steel also. Is the brake line mild or harden?

2savage, You can buy adapters for the M/C.


Mach Toy, Lines are not slipping. It just swages into a ball instead od folding it over.

I'm going to call RIDGID right now and see what I can find out.

Thanks for the input guys
 

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Will the same flaring tool do both flares--bubble and double or will I need to buy 2 different tools?

I'm finding all of this information is very important as it will save time and aggrevation when I begin my build. I read ALL the topics and ALL the posts on this board and take notes,names and info and put it all in catagories in my "build" notebook. Hopefully then I won't have too many work stoppages due to lack of info.
 

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I used the Rigid 345 also, but no problems...no slipping, no need for additional clamps either.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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I used one made by Weatherhead. Be sure to use the adapter part first to start the metal folding over, remove adapter and finish double flair with the cone shaped tool. Mine worked OK, no leaks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just talk to the tech rep at RIDGID and he said that the realy don't make a flaring tool for brake lines!! Thay say there isn't a big enought market for it. He said if you can make it work "thats great", but it was built for the refregeration market. He said he's tring to get the company to make a 345BL for brake lines, but he has to show a market for it!! Maybe we all should send them an e-mail showing our interest.
It wouldn't hurt!!
 

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Larry
I had all kinds of problems trying to make suitable flairs. After much screwing around I found that the wall thickness of the tubing that came w/ my kit was not uniform. You might want to check your tubing. To correct the problem I went to a parts store and bought several lengths of Bundy tubing. I had no trouble at all when I had to cut and reflare this stuff. It's dirt cheap, also.
 

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I have the Rigid kit and used it on my stainless brake lines. Never a problem. You are probably doing it wrong. Rigid is a rock solid tool. By the way, if you have a problem with one of the dies just call Rigid. I had one of the double flare 'tits' break on me and they sent me a couple of new ones no charge.

Roscoe
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Never heard of bundy tubing? Thay don't have it at Autozone. I'll check Napa next. I know what you mean about wall thickness! I was getting flares to one side or the other because of it.

Thanks

Larry Davidson
 

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I used the ridgid and never ever had a problem. Just deburred with a big drill bit, no oil, slapped it in and 40 seconds later I had perfect double flares.
 

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John you will need two seperate tools to do both double and bubble flairs.As someone said in an earlier reply you can buy adapters for the master cylinder...this is the only place in the brake system you will have to deal with bubble flairs.
 

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Larry
Bundy tubing is straight pieces of brake tubing, in various lengths, that has a nut and preformed flare on either end. NAPA will have them.
 

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I have the same tool. The tubing kept slipping and I was about to toss it in the weeds. Then I cleaned off the tool with acetone and it works perfectly every time. Deburr well, oil button, clean tool and tube, flare, repeat as required.
 
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