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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking at going with 4 into 4 headers on my 98 DOHC 4V and not using the OEM manifold and J-Pipe combo for various reasons, one of which, is the A/C compressor coolant line interference with the OEM manifold. I can get the F5 ones but need to add a bung on each for the AFR wideband O2 sensors and not destroy the ceramic coating. That only samples one cylinder on each side and I suppose that is sufficient.

But Stainless Headers has a nice configuration on their Coyote headers with a 4-1-4 and an O2 bung in the collector. Stainless Headers has the parts to build the correct header but uses a special mock up device to correctly position the side pipe connector.

When you order their headers for a F5, they send you the device, you match it up to your side pipe position, lock the device and send it back. It costs a little extra but I would think that if two different cars are using the same engine block, same thickness spacers and same type of header flange the headers should be interchangeable.

I am nowhere near able to put on the body and position the side pipes to fit this mock up device. Is anybody currently looking for a header solution on their 96-98 DOHC motor that might be interested in going with something from Stainless Headers? Or are their other vendors that do a similar thing?

These pictures are from their website at stainlessheaders dot com

Thanks, Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you! I will check with them later in the week and see if they can do that. I really like the way the Coyote header looks.
Bill
 

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Thank you! I will check with them later in the week and see if they can do that. I really like the way the Coyote header looks.
Bill
Chris at Stainless is a great to work with. Give them a call.
 

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Not sure if you ever got this resolved or not, but I bought my 01 DOHC 4.6 ceramic headers from f5r and they fit perfect. I had bungs installed in my sidepipe collectors and my bama tuner made the adjustment in collector locations (distance from cylinder head) in my tune.

Works perfect with O2 extension cables and runs/drives awesome now as my daily driver.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input. Still not resolved. My first choice is to go with the Stainless because I really want to use their central bung location. I did contact Chris but they need me to do the thing with the mock up tool. I don't think he wants chance the headers not fitting if he just throws the dual port header flange on the Coyote pipes.

I am not in a good position to dig out the body and sidepipes for test fitting with the side pipes. I relocated three different relatives in the last year and my garage is suffering from "we can't give that to charity, it's worth too much" syndrome. It almost looks like the warehouse in Indiana Jones. Anybody need a tube amplifier Hi-Fi, Heathkit ham radio with a new never used antenna or a complete new, used once, scuba diving set up? :wacko:

I'm hoping someone else goes the stainless route before me. Second choice is FFR DOHC headers and put bungs in the side pipes. But the sidepipes are already ceramic coated without the bungs and I don't know if welding bungs in will destroy the coating.

Right now I'm working on the computer for the engine and the engine/chassis wiring so I'm not stuck. (Just slow) Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Header update finally. I have decided to go with the dual collector w/O2 bung headers from Stainless Header that are similar to the Coyote ones. See first pic.

Stainless (well actually they split off their custom fab work to a different company called GP Headers) can make them for me but they don't use the same mock up tool they use on the Coyote headers. See second pic.

My motor is the oval port DOHC from a 98 Cobra. I thought they could attach the oval port flange to the same tubing configuration for the Coyote and use the collector "caterpillar" mock up tool to fine tune it. (See 2nd pic)
But this is not the case; they have to be made from scratch. The sent me 6 adjustable elbows, various 1 1/2" PVC elbows, a pair of dual port adapter plates and two collectors. Kind of like the 3rd pic. I supply the 1.5” pvc for the straight parts.

I attached the header plates to the block and had to remove my OEM oil dipstick tube on the driver side. Thanks to the forum I have several options to put that back when I'm done with the headers. I set the side pipes on some supports to attach the collector flange. I don't have the body on but I think I have the side pipes in the right place. I’ll get a chance to check Alan’s car tomorrow at breakfast.

T be continued..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Header update continued

I compared my side pipe positioning with Alan’s car and I think I’m close enough. I read some of the hanger threads and I will probably go with the single point attachment I saw on another thread. Right now I just have the side pipes sitting in cradles.

I figured I would do the hardest side first and get it out of the way. That was a mistake. I got so frustrated I thought I’d never get it done and seriously contemplated sending the mock up kit back. I already had fun with removing the dipstick. Then I had to remove the oil filter; I’m running the heat exchanger that comes with the motor. When I went to test fit the oil filter relocation pieces Factory Five sent with the kit, I found they were for the small block version. And so was the one that came with the 4.6L mod motor kit. I’ll have to check with them and see if they have a different adapter available for trade maybe. Otherwise I can purchase the 22mm oil filter bypass and the oil filter converter nipple.

The space is really tight between the foot box and heads for the header mock up pieces they sent me. And when I managed to get it close enough it still wasn’t right. Time for a break. I decided to try the passenger side and it was relatively painless. A plus is the A/C compressor fittings now have clearance for the hoses as expected.

Feeling hopeful I went back and tried the driver side and I think I got it. I'm sure the welder can tighten thins up compared to what I had to deal with.

I don't know if I should mount the body to double check the headers or not. I should probably attach the hangers to confirm the correct rotation of the side pipes and the forward/backward positioning. Right now I just eyeballed them.

Any thoughts? See pics, it did happen.:yes:
 

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