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Curious George
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
when my son and I attended the build class a few weeks back, one of the things that the instructors said is 'you don't NEED Wilwoods unless you're tracking the car...' - the stock Mustang brakes are built to stop a vehicle 2x the weight of the roadster... if you want shiny red calipers, then there's a $12 bottle of caliper paint you can use :)

of course, if you go with the stock kit, you can retrofit Wilwoods later - but what's everyone's take on what your decision factors were? just because they're nice and shiny? LOL

you can buy a set of red coated powerstops for about $820 for all 4 sides that has 13" rotors up front and 11" in rear made for '04 Cobra Mustang
:surprise:
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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5,469 Posts
I went with 95 Cobra brakes front and rear. That gives you a 13" front rotor with dual piston caliper and an 11.65" rear rotor with a single piston. I also went power using a 95 Cobra master on a fox booster with a fox pedal box. I like it, never feels like I dont have enough brakes. Another option is going with standard 95 GT brakes, thats a 12" front rotor with 2 pistons and the same rear caliper with a 10.5" rotor. They fit in the smaller 15" Halibrands if youre going that way. Ultimately its your choice and budget, as you mentioned you can paint your calipers red and who is really looking at your brakes anyway, they will be focused on the paint and engine. Good Luck whichever way you go.

Mike
 
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Pro FFR Builder and Moderator
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14,651 Posts
Yes you do. My systems are a bit larger than those. 6 piston front and 4 piston rear.
 

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Junior Charter Member
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727 Posts
I have stock fox body mustang brakes on my mk 3 with the power booster and drums on the rear.
I can lock up all 4 wheels. not sure what else I could ever need on a street/strip car.

If I did autocross or road course I would worry about brake fade but would probably try the car as is first.

I have basically the same brakes on my big heavy ‘54 Country Squire - 80s Lincoln Continental rotors, ‘95 cobra booster and drums out back. That car will put you through the windshield of you stomp on the brakes.



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Not a waxer
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Unless you're tracking the car heavily I think Wilwoods are mostly just flashy jewelry. If I was to go to Wilwood on my own car I'd get black 'cause I've always thought brightly painted calipers are kind of a "ricer" thing. Of course that's just my opinion... ;)

Jeff
 

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Junior Charter Member
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1,392 Posts
Anyone running Wilwood brakes on the rear only for extra rear braking?
 
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164 Posts
I have the standard GT brakes all around with a Mustang pedal box and a $75 vacuum booster also from a GT. Stops great with the feel of my daily driver. Wouldn’t change a thing.
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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I have the Ford COBRA Brakes F & R, more aggressive HAWK pads, better rotors, Cooling ducts for the front brakes, and track often on bigger tracks in the East. More than enough braking ability from the car.

The biggest reason I stay with the Ford stuff is that if you are away from home, and have a problem, any good auto parts store can get you Ford stuff. With the Wilwoods, you are shot, on the trailer/flatbed unless you carry extra calipers/pads.

I am also of the opinion the Wilwoods are great, but overkill for most.
 

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Moderator
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What do they run on the Spec racers? More than adequate. Is there better? Yes. Do you need it? No. I run the Cobra PBR calipers, two piece rotors and Carbo tech pads and have been very happy with braking performance with a 400 rwhp set up.
 
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Too Cheap to paint!
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Anyone running Wilwood brakes on the rear only for extra rear braking?
Best way to add rear braking force is to change the rear pads to provide more rear bias/Bite.

Depending on the brake pad brand you use, use a pad that bites better cold, and you will add rear brake bias. The rear brakes do not heat up much, and work less than most think. I do this, and it works, street and track.
 

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Premium Member
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17,903 Posts
when my son and I attended the build class a few weeks back, one of the things that the instructors said is 'you don't NEED Wilwoods unless you're tracking the car...' - the stock Mustang brakes are built to stop a vehicle 2x the weight of the roadster... if you want shiny red calipers, then there's a $12 bottle of caliper paint you can use :)
I think this is correct. Wilwoods are nice, I like them a lot. If you have the budget, I would recommend them. But you don't NEED them.
 

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Anyone running Wilwood brakes on the rear only for extra rear braking?
Yes, rear 4-piston Wilwoods from Levy Racing was my first upgrade. For about 2 years I had Fox Mustang up front and the Wilwoods out back.

There was a massive difference with the rear Wilwoods. Sadly, I didn't notice a difference when I upgraded the fronts to Wilwood 6-piston. I did, however, notice a difference when I changed the front pads to Polymatrix E, which matched the back. (Stock was BP-20.) (There was a lot of brake dust in the front, so I put them back for normal use.)

If I were to build another and if I had Halibrands where you don't see the brakes, I'd get something else and Porterfield pads that I've read about.
 

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When I first built my car (more than 10yrs ago now) went with the PBR brakes that came with the kit (and painted the front calipers red). I never had a problem with those brakes, but can't say they performed with more than average stopping power. I upgraded to the EBC Yellowstuff pads. Keep in mind you have to get used to the extra effort required for a manual braking system.

However, I always longed for the Wilwoods and just a year ago, I upgraded to Wilwoods all the way around. Now my brakes are outstanding and I never have any concerns about braking ability.

If you have the ability to cut costs elsewhere and go with the Wilwoods, it's a worthwhile investment. You can also talk to Gordon, since he occasionally has used Wilwoods for sale that may make it more affordable. Good luck !
 
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Curious George
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Discussion Starter #15
I think one benefit (which doesn't justify the price) is the capability to change pads without pulling the caliper bolts... probably no Ford designs like this (unless you go with a newer Brembo setup)
 

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Charter Member
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If you are going with the Ford stuff, I would buy the cobra PBR calipers/rotors. Those calipers look a lot better than the standard GT calipers. I think they come red already.
 

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Best way to add rear braking force is to change the rear pads to provide more rear bias/Bite.

Depending on the brake pad brand you use, use a pad that bites better cold, and you will add rear brake bias. The rear brakes do not heat up much, and work less than most think. I do this, and it works, street and track.
Agree have the FFR brakes, GT front, Cobra rear, with good rotors & HAWK aggressive pads. Tires, 100 treadware, are the limiting factor.
 

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Go for overkill. Gordon hooked me up and I waiting to find time to get them on.
 
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OT Moderator
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You absolutely DO NOT need them. Total waste of money.

I had the Cobra stock brakes and they stopped my car with brute authority.

Think about it, high performance Mustang Cobra brakes that were designed to stop a 3,500 lb car, on a car that weighs 1,000 lbs less. Enough said. Save your money

Plus they look really nice. You can get a set for all 4 corners for cheap. Brand new, powder coated red, with the Cobra script on the front Calipers.

My 2 cents.
 

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Official OLD GUY
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3,843 Posts
WilWood's

Nope, don't NEED them at all, not in a 2300# car.

I went with 95 Cobra brakes front and rear. That gives you a 13" front rotor with dual piston PBR calipers and an 11.65" rear rotor with a single piston.
No power, Jeep 15/16" master, manual brake pedal mod, bias valve for the rears. NOT painted RED.

These brakes will throw anyone, not shoulder harness strapped in, thru the windshield. I can lock all four with moderate pressure - my tires are the deciding factor in stopping, brakes out-grip the tires on the road.

Just my 2¢.

Doc :beerchug:
 
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