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As long as they are clean and pretty and the chain is not stretched or the teeth on the pull side, worn, you will be OK.
 

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Official OLD GUY
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The bottom line here is, everything, EVERYTHING, needs to be cleaned, cleaned again and cleaned for a third time . . . even if you put everything back together with the same old parts (less cam and dizzy gear), as long as they are clean, they are reusable. That cam / dizzy gear destruction didn't just drop small chunks of steel / iron into your pan, it slowly ground the cam down, depositing micro-particles throughout your engine, washing your bearings with abrasive material.

Clean everything . . .

Doc
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Already did that doc thanks.

Also discovered on my way into the cam, that the cam bolt was loose and the gear was loose. Probably just a few miles away from real issues. I suppose tearing it down all the way I can reassemble with some confidence that it was done with some attention and patience. I am my own customer now.

BTW setting zero lash on the hydraulic roller now, how much play in the pushrod should I have? zero wiggle up and down but spinnable?

The bottom line here is, everything, EVERYTHING, needs to be cleaned, cleaned again and cleaned for a third time . . . even if you put everything back together with the same old parts (less cam and dizzy gear), as long as they are clean, they are reusable. That cam / dizzy gear destruction didn't just drop small chunks of steel / iron into your pan, it slowly ground the cam down, depositing micro-particles throughout your engine, washing your bearings with abrasive material.

Clean everything . . .

Doc
 

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Official OLD GUY
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Hydraulic roller lifters are adjusted as follows:
Make sure lobes are at the bottom of their travel, basically BDC on the lobe.
Tighten rocker adjustment nut until you can just spin push rod with some resistance, not tight but won't spin between your fingers without you putting a little effort into it.
Tighten adjuster nut another 3/4 turn tight - this will set preload on lifter and set the internal plunger down below the top retaining snap-ring.

Old trick was to set #1 with crank at TDC. Then turn crank 90° and adjust #3. Another 90° and adjust #7, and so on until you have turned the crank 720° and each set of rockers is set. - - - this is following the firing order (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8) so you know each cylinder is at exactly TDC in the firing order. IF you are using a cam that uses the older firing order (1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8) follow that pattern

Doc
 

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Discussion Starter #45
So we're 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 and since I have the intake off I tightened which ever pushrod was loose as I went around the world twice back to #1 at tdc. I think my son went too far on the tightness so I am gonna run through the entire sequence tomorrow. This time cylinder by cylinder.



Hydraulic roller lifters are adjusted as follows:
Make sure lobes are at the bottom of their travel, basically BDC on the lobe.
Tighten rocker adjustment nut until you can just spin push rod with some resistance, not tight but won't spin between your fingers without you putting a little effort into it.
Tighten adjuster nut another 3/4 turn tight - this will set preload on lifter and set the internal plunger down below the top retaining snap-ring.

Old trick was to set #1 with crank at TDC. Then turn crank 90° and adjust #3. Another 90° and adjust #7, and so on until you have turned the crank 720° and each set of rockers is set. - - - this is following the firing order (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8) so you know each cylinder is at exactly TDC in the firing order. IF you are using a cam that uses the older firing order (1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8) follow that pattern

Doc
 

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The dizzy was already in from the top. The shaft I tried to install from the bottom and I may have put it in with some tension. the shaft should move up and down slightly. this thing was in tight and I should have calmed down loosened up the pump and give the shaft a twist to see where it was.

Regardless I have been somewhat nervous about the whole dizzy gear and cam so I was gonna drop the HV pump for a regular volume pump, but prior to me getting pissed I looked up into the gear from below and it looked in decent shape.

Now not so much. Want pics? It's like BAD engine porn. Ehh after I get it all broken down I will post up some picks of my bad behavior.
Postal
I wanted to revisit your binding pumpshaft issue again. how to you prevent this from happening? not tighten the pump down? shorten the pump shaft? The distributor will only fit a certain way, unless the gear is too low on the dizzy. The oil pump will only fit a certain way. the only way I can think of getting play in the pump shaft is to shorten the shaft, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
So as I broke the engine down. I found a couple things wrong. One the ARP oil pump shaft was upside down. one end is a shorter hex that when installed upside down pushes the distributor gear and shaft upward into the cam gear. I could feel this from under the engine but I ignored it. Stupid.

The second thing I found was that the cam bolt to timing gear and bolts to cam thrust plate were all loose. So I was probably experiencing cam walk. Not Probably for sure it was walking. The cam bearings were worn in a weird pattern.

Once I got all the pieces cleaned up. I double checked the distributor shoulder to bottom of gear length. Mine is right at the minimum. I inserted the distributor without the cam or oil pump to double check if it rubs on the perch. It doesn't and it rotates nice and smoothly. I also checked to see if the distributor shaft moves up and down 0.05" and it does.

I then inserted the oil pump shaft and oil pump and those fit nicely with some play up and down. So far so good.

In your case you'll need to verify the length of the distributor shaft to gear and of course the shaft length as well.

Postal
I wanted to revisit your binding pumpshaft issue again. how to you prevent this from happening? not tighten the pump down? shorten the pump shaft? The distributor will only fit a certain way, unless the gear is too low on the dizzy. The oil pump will only fit a certain way. the only way I can think of getting play in the pump shaft is to shorten the shaft, right?
 

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So as I broke the engine down. I found a couple things wrong. One the ARP oil pump shaft was upside down. one end is a shorter hex that when installed upside down pushes the distributor gear and shaft upward into the cam gear. I could feel this from under the engine but I ignored it. Stupid.

The second thing I found was that the cam bolt to timing gear and bolts to cam thrust plate were all loose. So I was probably experiencing cam walk. Not Probably for sure it was walking. The cam bearings were worn in a weird pattern.

Once I got all the pieces cleaned up. I double checked the distributor shoulder to bottom of gear length. Mine is right at the minimum. I inserted the distributor without the cam or oil pump to double check if it rubs on the perch. It doesn't and it rotates nice and smoothly. I also checked to see if the distributor shaft moves up and down 0.05" and it does.

I then inserted the oil pump shaft and oil pump and those fit nicely with some play up and down. So far so good.

In your case you'll need to verify the length of the distributor shaft to gear and of course the shaft length as well.
thanks for the detailed report. my pump shaft has hex tapers at both ends that are the exact same length, so no likelihood of inserting it upside down. I did measure my dizzy shoulder to bottom of gear distance and this appears to be w/in spec. dizzy shaft does wiggle up and down, but just slightly. it's kinda hard to measure this tiny movement even with a digital caliper. Dizzy overall length appears to be correct and not the longer post-87' longer dizzy shaft that might interfere with the aftermarket thicker pumpshaft.
I'm waiting on a regular volume oil pump from Forte as your HV pump situation had me spooked a bit.
I've triple verified cam/dizzy gear material compatibility.
I'll get everything mocked up once oil pump is here and assume that all will be good.
 
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