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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got to do some serious building this weekend. As I assembled the front upper ball joint onto the arm, I thought I cross-threaded it - it was very difficult to turn, even using the vise trick in the manual.

So I backed it out, added another dab of thread locker, and started to thread the ball joint back on. This time - I could just hand-twist the ball joint onto the mount - except for the last few turns. Is this bad?

On the other side, I had better luck, and I figured out a better way to attach the upper ball joint onto the arm - put the arm into a vise, and use a pipe wrench to tighten, see below. (This one was also difficult to thread on - but the pipe wrench gave me more leverage/more torque, and it felt nice and tight.)

What about my first one? Did I damage it?

 

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nope you did fine
it is easy to cross thread.
they should go in easy ( not all do though )
and using the pipe wrench for the final is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reassurance and sanity check. Just want to be sure the car will stay in one piece when I drive it!
 

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Yup, I went through the exact same problem. Mine were absolutely brutal too. I had to heat the A-arm with a torch, cool the ball joint at -5F outside, then put them together quickly with a vice and a 24" pipe wrench. Even at that, I had to apply my whole body weight to it. Finally got them in, but not fun at all. I put about 600 miles on the car so far, and haven't had any cracks or other problems (knock on wood!).

I've since heard that FFR has changed to ball joints that fit in more easily, and I could've returned the ones I have, but I really don't want to take them all apart again.
 

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The ball joints come from an early 70's Chrysler E body.... Challenger/ Cuda
 

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Snake Farmer
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Will thread lock alone, work OK for those?

I put a spot weld on mine, as I had heard of them un-threading, I thought, even with thread lock. Maybe the new ones don't have that issue any longer?
 

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If you are concerned about these coming loose just take a spring loaded punch or anything that makes a reference mark and make one mark on the ball joint and one on the arm that are aligned. Any time you open your hood you can see if your original marks are aligned.
HTH
CB
 

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Ball Joints

Mine went on easy. Too easy. I used blue loctite and got then as tight as I could. I use a product called Cross Check Tamper Proof Torque Mark.

This stuff comes in several colors but I chose bright orange. I have it on anything I do a final torque on. It shatters if the bolt moves and gives you a very easy visual indication that things may not be right.
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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Mine went on easy. Too easy. I used blue loctite and got then as tight as I could. I use a product called Cross Check Tamper Proof Torque Mark.

This stuff comes in several colors but I chose bright orange. I have it on anything I do a final torque on. It shatters if the bolt moves and gives you a very easy visual indication that things may not be right.

what also works fine, if your wife or girl friend does not mind, is finger nail polish. you can buy torque stripe if you want to though.
 

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Not a waxer
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I've had two sets that the ball joint screwed in easily and another set that was very tight (BTW, I clamp the joint in a vice and turn the control arm, making the arm the wrench ;)). Rather than welding I've taken a more serviceable approach--- I give them a dose of Locktite and torque them tight. Then for some extra assurace I drill thru the UCA into the joint and add a 1/8" spring pin to mechanically lock the joint in place. If the joint should ever need to be removed the pin can be pulled out. No worries about interference internally; the pin is well above the ball in the grease chamber:



Jeff
 

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I have 16,000 miles and mine are still tight.

No locking liquids just used a large pipe wrench when tightened originally.

So for those that say they backed out, evidently they did not get them tight?

From 2003 to 2007 on the Challenge cars on track, we never had a backout issue.
 
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