I purchased the Koni double Adjustable shock option and noted this AM that there are 2 mounting holes available for the top mounts as shown in this pic.
The manuals, forum search, and FFR instruction search did not provide an answer as to whether to use the top hole or the bottom hole. I am using the FFR tubular lower control arms if makes a difference.
The two different hole locations on each side make it double adjustable, right? >
The neck on your shock mount looks longer than my earlier mk4, as if it is suppose to be mounted in the upper hole. See attached picture.
Looks like the only difference between the mount holes is a little bit of wheel clearance and a slightly different wheel rate for the same springs. I'd try the upper and see if it works.
I purchased the Koni double Adjustable shock option and noted this AM that there are 2 mounting holes available for the top mounts as shown in this pic.
The manuals, forum search, and FFR instruction search did not provide an answer as to whether to use the top hole or the bottom hole. I am using the FFR tubular lower control arms if makes a difference.
The bottom hole is used for the red Koni shocks. The top hole is used for the double action silver Koni shocks. Front and back. Which also must be installed with the body down. This was discussed on the other forum and confirmed with a call to Factory Five. Looks like you have them installed that way, so all good.
Unfortunately, your UCA's are installed incorrectly. The rear pivots should be on the top, and the zerks pointed up. The pictures in the instruction manual show it correctly, but unfortunately it's never mentioned that it's necessary to disassemble and re-assemble to get the proper orientation. You're in good company. Many have missed this. They come from the vendor assembled upside down for this application. Your upper ball joint is installed correctly, with the ball joint pointed out.
Note: While you're fixing this, it's generally recommend to have bolts go in from the top with the nut on the bottom. That way should the nut ever fall off, there's a chance the bolt will stay in place and avert an even worse situation. When you take the UCA's apart to flip the pivots over, put the bolts in from the other side.
The bottom hole is used for the red Koni shocks. The top hole is used for the double action silver Koni shocks. Front and back. Which also must be installed with the body down. This was discussed on the other forum and confirmed with a call to Factory Five. Looks like you have them installed that way, so all good.
Thanks. i contacted Tech and go this answer also.
Unfortunately, your UCA's are installed incorrectly. The rear pivots should be on the top, and the zerks pointed up. The pictures in the instruction manual show it correctly, but unfortunately it's never mentioned that it's necessary to disassemble and re-assemble to get the proper orientation. You're in good company. Many have missed this. They come from the vendor assembled upside down for this application. Your upper ball joint is installed correctly, with the ball joint pointed out.
Note: While you're fixing this, it's generally recommend to have bolts go in from the top with the nut on the bottom. That way should the nut ever fall off, there's a chance the bolt will stay in place and avert an even worse situation. When you take the UCA's apart to flip the pivots over, put the bolts in from the other side.
OOPS. Glad you noticed. i put them in the way i knew the ball joint needed to go and thought the grease zerks pointed down would make then easier to reach so didn't think that they may come assembled incorrectly. i'm starting to realize i need to pay more attention to the pictures since they show things that are not mentioned. i will also put the nuts on the bottom as suggested. I will get this corrected.
Regarding the mount location of the pivot bar, i have the FFR spindles so i followed the "Complete Manual" which on page 37 says to use the side mount location not the top mount location.
Regarding the mount location of the pivot bar, i have the FFR spindles so i followed the "Complete Manual" which on page 37 says to use the side mount location not the top mount location.
I didn't state that very clearly. Your cross shaft is in the right location. Wasn't talking about that. It's the swivels on the ends that are wrong. When you flip them over so that the zerks are pointing up, you'll see the pivots are off-center and are pivoting from the top half of the cross shaft vs. the bottom. Hope that makes better sense.
I didn't state that very clearly. Your cross shaft is in the right location. Wasn't talking about that. It's the swivels on the ends that are wrong. When you flip them over so that the zerks are pointing up, you'll see the pivots are off-center and are pivoting from the top half of the cross shaft vs. the bottom. Hope that makes better sense.
Turns out that the newer FFR sheet metal that I have provides almost as much room as possible when using a coyote motor. As a result I have decided to go with the foot boxes as FFR provided.
i purchased a new 2004 furl tank and need to identify the parts indicated on the included picture. Does anyone have the part numbers or Ford's name for these parts?
Aloha everyone , My Diff has developed a leak at one of the axle seals after a total of 300 miles since install, some of you may remember my complaints about lots of clunking between driving and coasting. don't know if its related but its time to pull it out and let someone have a look as well...
I have a dailey driver Cobra that spends time in in stop and go traffic. I've replaced the clutch cable with a Ford oem clutch cable. That helped reduce the clutch pedal effort. I don't do drag race starts or even autocross stuff. The motor is a 331 stroker with 165 AFR heads, cam and...
Hello,
I’ve been trying to follow several of the links for MK4 body bucks only to get the “oops something went wrong “ message.☹️ Does anyone have a good link to a good set of plans?
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