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has anybody used glove boxed dash and still had a heater and defroster option by factory five ???
 

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Plodding Along
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has anybody used glove boxed dash and still had a heater and defroster option by factory five ???
Yep - but my glove box is only about an inch deep. Others have moved the heater to a different location (low center of firewall is one of the more popular locations for such a move) in order to get a bigger glove box. Mine has both heat (exits below dash over each footwell) and the defroster vents at the base of the windshield.

Here are a couple of pics:




Heater motor and lines in the lower center of this pic...

 

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Todd,

I live in Williston right next to you.

PM me a message and I'll give you my phone #.

Having looked at your other posts I can answer a couple of questions.

I have the premium top from FFR and have worked with the manufacturer on adding quarter windows. It is not yet installed but I can probably tell you what others have said about it. Do a search here with GWL and convertible top as I have posted many pictures of the FFR top and how I came to choose it for my car.

I also have a large A/C and Heater that takes up a lot of room behind the dash and glove box. As mentioned above, there is only about an inch of depth but I too have added one because I like the look of the original dash and glove box. I was able to form an exact copy of the original 427 street Cobra glove box in the supplied FFR dash board. Not quite finished yet but I am extremely pleased with the results.


I am sort of retired, so give me a call, come over and we can discuss your build and more. Obviously, looking at your picture avatar, your wife/girl friend is part of this project so bring her along too.

In addition, I owned and drove a TR-250 for fifteen years as my daily driver.

George

Sorry, I wasn't thinking. I've PM'ed you with my phone #. Go to the right top of this page and you'll see your forum name. Click on the Private Messages link and you'll find my PM to you. Again, give me a call.
 

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Yes but, it takes some modifications.

I have the FFR heater and a 3" deep glove box that I made myself. The heater was moved 2" forward by constructing a box for it to be mounted on. The firewall forward kit that is available from a forum vendor might be a better option for this. The passenger side defrost duct needs to be modified to fit. I used a piece of 1 1/2 inch ABS pipe cut and shaped with the aid of a heat gun to make the connection for the shortened defrost duct.

The glove box I made out of veneer and 5 ply 1/4 inch birch plywood. The 3" deep glove box available from a forum vendor should fit fine. Here are a couple of pictures.

Norm
 

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I

The passenger side defrost duct needs to be modified to fit. I used a piece of 1 1/2 inch ABS pipe cut and shaped with the aid of a heat gun to make the connection for the shortened defrost duct.

Norm
I like that vent pipe.

Any other pictures or explanation about how it was made and how it was shaped?

Thanks, George
 

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I have a S/C dash layout with a glovebox and heater. The blower section of the heater is not in the engine bay, so I am taking air from the cabin for heat/defrost. This keeps me from having the air migration into the cabin from the engine bay when the heater isn't running. To do this:
- 3" firewall forward
- 1" deep box in the firewall (into the engine bay) here the blower motor is
- relocate the dash support to the DS
- added a dash support on PS (probably not needed though)
- fabricated a mounting plate the heater/blower unit sandwiches and mounts on the horizontal 2x2
- wiper motor also ends up behind the dash with a 3" forward firewall

Photobucket is down right now and I am sitting in the Philly airport. I'll post pics later.
 

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George, I have one more picture of the modified pax defrost duct. The pipe was cut on an angle and the supplied duct was cut short. I used a heat gun to soften both pieces. The supplied duct will melt very quickly, be careful (I have no idea how it stands up to the heat from the heater).

The top edges of the pipe were pushed in and the bottom of the duct was flared out to get a good mechanical connection. I filed the pipe with a wood rasp to get exactly the shape needed to fit. The pipe had to be flattened a bit to fit in the space available between the body and the heater.

Once everything was fitted properly, I glued the pieces together with black RTV. I also glued 3 aluminum louvers inside the duct to direct the air up. If you don't the air will go sideways. A couple of short machine screws were put in the end of the pipe where the hose attaches to give zip tie clamp something to grab and prevent the hose slipping off.

Hope this info is useful

Norm
 

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Photobucket is back up.

Dash view. You can see wiper motor/drive and how far forward firewall is:


When I still had a street dash layout, showing heater, support plate (16ga steel) and relocated DS support. My original glovebox on street dash was home-built. S/C dash uses Alex's glovebox. Dog-legged PS dash support::


You can see the 1" deep box into the engine bay on the firewall ... if you look for it. The Breeze insulation makes nice camouflage.:001_rolleyes:
 

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has anybody used glove boxed dash and still had a heater and defroster option by factory five ???
You could always just put a "faux" door on it, if you just like the look. I always thought the dash looked better with a door, otherwise it's kind of bland looking on the RH side.:)
 

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Caress of Steel
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Is AC Roadster Interiors still in business?
 

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I made a box to push the heater into the engine compartment about 2 inches and then made a custom glove box with a shelf.







 

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