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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Jeff K was nice enough and provided some pics of where the body over laps the dish.

I guess my only question is why does the dash in the pic start 3/16 low? The instructions state that it should sit 3/16 under the top of the dash.
Screenshot_20200112-204240_Samsung Internet.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I'm guess mine will depend on how the dash sits on the tube middle dash support. Though I guess that could be shimmied higher if need be. The dash just can't sit lower.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So when I got home I test fitted the support and it pushed the dash up. No under lap on the ends.
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I assume if I place the screws and high up as possible the will be hidden under the lip of the body.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I guess I could pull the support and dash forward until it sits 3/16 on the below on the edge. When I do that it seems like it's at a good angle away from the hoop it doesn't sit flat.
 

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At least on my dash, the large gauge on the left will interfere with the bottom of the frame unless you drop the dash slightly. You might need to mod the support if it's pushing your dash up.
 

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(1) Unless you drop the dash mounting location as Jeff's pictures show (e.g. the ends below the tube as shown) you will cause interference with the body and affect the door opening fit. It's been talked about a lot and I can personally confirm because it happened to me. Doesn't matter because the body lip covers it completely even lower like that. (2) Remove those wires and tie wrap holding the dash ASAP. They will leave marks if left very long, and you may not be able to get them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Edward and Egchewy

I will make sure the corners are 3/16

Yes I was warn a long time ago and I have left some marks. I tried velcro it just did not work. But I'm going to get this mounted and it will be good after that.

Thank you thank you so much
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I assume the idea is to hide the screws under the lip of the body? I have seen both screws exposed and not and or alternative then screws.
 

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You hide the screws & you can't remove the dash without jacking up the body. Some of us use no screws at the top & let the lip of the body hold in inplace against the tube.

Eversons under tray or the under tray & a Console will maintain enough pressure to keep in in place & still have it removable in a few minutes. With a COYOTE & a black box mounted behind the dash its a good plan to have access to it if it needs service.

356919
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have the eversons under dash mount and will use it.

The velcro will try velcro again I can always use the screws later. But right now I prefer the screws.
 

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google this stuff:
3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB3550, Black, 1 in x 10 ft, Type 250/250
pretty heavy duty stuff with "hooks" on both sides, as opposed to the hooks and fabric type of velcro.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
google this stuff:
3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB3550, Black, 1 in x 10 ft, Type 250/250
pretty heavy duty stuff with "hooks" on both sides, as opposed to the hooks and fabric type of velcro.

Awesome I will buys this
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here is the dash sitting 3 /16 under at the corners.

The center support sits flush and so does the dash for the most part.

Nothing thing I feel I cant make work.

The top as said is off the hoop.

So if i wanted to use screws i could not screw the top as is.

Regardless of screws or velcro i will put a plate on the top.

It not going to hurt anything to velcro. So will do that and see how I like that 1st.
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Discussion Starter #14
Egchewy

Bought it will be here tomorrow.

Can I get some pics of the support brackets
 

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If you use Velcro or the 3M Dual Lock you won't be able to take the dash off with the body installed---to disengage either the dash would have to be pulled rearward which would be impossible with it trapped by the cowl lip. If you try to pull the dash down the Velcro/Dual lock will not release.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
If you use Velcro or the 3M Dual Lock you won't be able to take the dash off with the body installed---to disengage either the dash would have to be pulled rearward which would be impossible with it trapped by the cowl lip. If you try to pull the dash down the Velcro/Dual lock will not release.

Jeff
Well IDK.

I guess my goal was not necessarily to be able to remove the dash with the body on. I was doing that based on people's suggestions and I assume experience with needing to do it.

My one and only goal to to secure the dash properly. How that is done I guess I will pull all the advise.

I do like the idea now of the velcro because it make it easier to achieve the 3/16 on the ends with the center dash suppot.

Besides that I I have no personal opinion on the install method. My original plan was to do it the instructions say to.

I try to take everyone opinion and advise.

But in this case it varies.

Options

1. Screws not showing
2. Screws showing
3. Velcro

I really like all 3 options.

I'm leaning on the non removable velcro to start so I can miniplulate easily.

Though I know I can easily make the screws work too.

No matter what the top sits below the hoop with it dropped 3/16.


I always appreciate your advise.

I appreciate everyone's advise I try to use it all.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I went back and looked at several post including past ones I ask. I tend to get ahead thinking about stuff and forget what people have already told me. But in this case there are plenty options and opinions
 

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I used the 3M dual lock product and can confirm that it doesn’t allow you to remove the dash easily as Jeff notes because you have to pull it horizontally to disengage.

In addition, the thickness of the two interlocking pieces creates a 3/16” or so gap between the dash hoop on the frame to the dash itself that the fit becomes very tight with the body curl. I am planning to remove the 3M product and just go back to the screws.

That leads me to a question. FFR did not provide me with the dash screws. Does anyone know the proper substitute that I could order from McMaster or preferably just pick up at one of the big box hardware stores? If not I will contact FFR.
Thanks
Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Uggb

Thank for the advise.

My screws where in a non descript bag o part associated with electric stuff.

I find that FFR doesn't forget anything it's just not where you expect it or you just have to search.

I have been under the impression that I was missing parts, called and they always have no problem sending them out right away. Just to find them with the boxes later on.
 
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