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Discussion Starter #1
I’m getting ready to mount the dash but was hoping to avoid using screws to secure the top portion. Looking to keep it clean of any visible screws or fasteners. Any tips or suggestions on an alternative?
 

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For my builds I've put four right angle brackets on the back of the dash and attached to the underside of the dash hoop. I place the brackets on the dash before covering with flat head screws, so they're invisible if you get them perfectly flat. Also locate them where they're reachable with an extension from underside, e.g. between gauges, etc. Fortunately haven't had take a dash back out of a finished build. But it's possible. Check my #7750 build thread starting here: https://www.ffcars.com/threads/mk4-7750-build-progress-update.299597/post-3409506.
 

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I was thinking about Paul's bracket idea, but thought the hassle of removing the dash from below was more than I wanted to deal with. I'm using 1/4" stainless rounded socket head screws instead of the provided Phillips head screws with rivet nuts in the hoop frame.
 

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I struggled with the same issue. I used a carbon fiber looking vinyl for my dash and these plastic screw caps hide the hardware and look kinda like buttons. Just a suggestion. You can get them at most hardware stores. Good luck
 

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Curious how the last two posts meet the OP's goal of "avoid using screws" and "keep it clean of any visible screws or fasteners." Granted not everyone wants to deal with invisible mounting. But that was the question. And if you position the brackets properly, not hard to remove the dash. I've had them in and out multiple times during the build. Just never in a completed build. But wouldn't be any more difficult IMO. I was expecting some posts about using industrial strength Velcro. A number of builds have apparently done that. I experimented with it a little on my first Mk3. The bond between the two halves is more than adequate. But I found it didn't stick all that well to either the back of the dash or the dash hoop. Basically, when you tried to take it apart, rather than the two halves separating it came off one side or the other. 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener, like Velcro except interlocking mushroom-shaped heads, is another option although maybe with the same limitation. Another approach I've seen on a few builds is making the mounting along the bottom edge strong enough that little or nothing is needed at the top on the dash hoop since it's basically trapped by the body. Including a center brace down to the transmission tunnel like the originals had. OP may want to look at those options to not have anything visible.
 

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I also used Paul's idea, although I came up with my own version before I had joined this forum. The only real difference is that I used 40 mm right angle aluminium on the rear of the dash. I then mounted 20 by 20 aluminium right angle tabs on the rear of the dash hoop. I installed nutserts in the right angle tabs on the dash hoop. From memory I installed 5 of these tabs. As the screws are set a bit further towards the firewall, it is very easy to see/access them, although you still need to make sure that you're not going to interfere with instruments or other mounted components when selecting the position. I did custom wiring for my car and the whole dash is connected by three 15 pin plugs, making for quick and easy removal. For the mounting screws I used a type with captive washers, this also helped with the quick and easy installation. Yes it does add a few extra hours to the build, but at least you won't be looking at those screw heads for the rest of your life. I thoroughly recommend this approach. The only change I would make is to put a thin strip of self adhesive foam across the dashboard where it touches on the dash hoop. I haven't done this yet and I find if I tap on the dash in certain places it makes a metallic sound when it bangs against the dash hoop.

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz
 

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I mounted a few 2” long angled aluminum tabs to the bottom of the hoop and put 3M industrial hook Velcro on the back of the dash and the tabs. Reason for the tabs vs just putting the Velcro on the hoop is in case you need to remove the dash it won’t be stuck after you put the body on. So far seems to work fine, in full disclosure only the end of my first partial season. I’ll be removing the dash after thanksgiving so will see how it held up.

IMG_8601.jpg
 

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My dash has been held on with Velcro for 10 years, no problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks all.....I like the idea of brackets with some Velcro. Will give it a try.....thanks again
 
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