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Senior Member
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most likely not wired correctly. double check
 

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I don't know about the brightness lvl ont he vintage gauges, but on the carbon fibers there's no need for a rheostat and associated wiring if you don't want it. FYI
 

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With terminals up and pull part facing you, the main power goes to top right, the park and main beams will be on left middle (you do have to jumper this to get parks to stay on with main beams) and the dash lights come off the rheostat on bott left.

Should be easy to test on a batt charger and volt meter.

I was looking under the dash upside down, so hope this is correct.
 

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Senior Charter Member
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I would think that you could do the same test without a battery, and just use the OHMS reading instead? Resistance should move up and down while adjusting the rheostat...
 

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Larry is right.

On my Autometer Carbon Fibers there is clearly NO need for a dimmer. If you want to use one you'll have to get brighter bulbs for the gauges. For sure. A total WAG on my part, but I'd guess that autometer uses low wattage bulbs to avoid heat problems inside the plastic gauges.
 

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Zulu... any chance you can post a pic with the wires labeled??? I'll be hooking up the headlight and turn signal wiring this weekend so that would help...Ken
 

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FFCobra Master Craftsman
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I have the vintage gauges and needed a rheostat. Otherwise, at night, the glare off the windshield was more than I wanted to deal with.
 
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