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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Time to start a Build thread for #8075 before it all gets away from me. I promised a few folks here with similar build plans that I would. This is my second build; the first (#5004) was a MK II built 2004-2005; sold it to Doubtie, here on the forum back in March. #5004 was a base kit build, 302 EFI. This time around, I'm going complete kit with:

Coyote, TKO 500 mid-shift, AC, PS, ABS, hydroboost brakes, hydraulic clutch w/slave, 8.8 3:55 rear, 3-link, Casey's modular dash, Russ' turn signals, keyless start, front/rear bumpers and a whole slew of other toys...hey, you only go around in this life once. Body will be some black color...suggestions?

I've had to post pics via pdf docs, until I can figure out another way to use captions; sorry in advance. Sort of being held up by delivery of the AC unit, and getting help dropping in the engine for a test fit.

EDIT: Eliminated the pdf pics; will cover all in time, below. No one commented, so I'm guessing PDF is a problem; or, I'm being shunned.

Edit: Forgot the dash; will either cover in blk leather to match Alex's shallow glove box, or powdercoat black crinkle.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
E-brake Day

EDIT 10/5/14: This system did not work well; pulley hoops kept breaking.

Finished the last bit of brake lines and decided to change the E-brake workings from the lever and clevis system to a pulley system; I'm happy now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
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1. Engine set-up for PS and AC.
2. Forte's Hydroboost.
3. Clutch MC.
4. ABS Controller; hope this location works. Will find out Saturday.
5. Lokar DBW module and one of many pedal options.






.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
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6. DBW view.
7. AGR712591 PS rack; used Breeze offset bushings, exact center, no cuts.
8. Foot boxes w/ aluminized heat barrier.
9. TKO 500 w/ mid-shift.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
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10. Russ Thompson's ABS sensor bracket for MK IV spindles.
11. Forte's 8.8 caliper bracket tweeked for ABS sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Looks really good!

In regards to the lower pully mounted on the 4 in tube. Did you tap the threads or does the rod go all of the way through?

Thanks
Alex
Lower pulley drilled/tapped: 1/4" x 2-5/8" stainless eye-bolts w/jam nut. Had to open-up the eye bolts some to accommodate the pulley swivel, then hammered closed.
Upper drilled though 1"x1" member.
Hillman pulleys w/swivel eye.
3/32" aircraft cable.

One of the cable crimps had to be filed-down a bit to be able to push through the pulley after I made the loops; on hindsight, I should have threaded the cable through the pulley first, then looped and fastened; see below. Really happy with the way it turned-out; direct pull from lever to cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Engine dropped-in for test fit

Boy, is this engine big!

Brother-in-law Steve from Flagstaff, Colin and Jen from the Valley, and Chuck Robertson from here in town dropped by to help drop the engine in for a test fit.

Had to do without the mount spacers (haven't arrived yet...grrrr). Tight fit:

Balancer clears 4" rail by a hair (spacers will correct that).
DS head touches footbox (BFH will fix).
PS head clears by 7/8" (all may sort out with when spacers are in and I jockey everything around; we really did not try to adjust much today).
ABS controller clears balancer by 1/2" (cool).
And oops...had to remove the brake reservoirs to allow the engine to drop in.

Just want to plan hose routing, reservoir and FPR placement, etc.

Will post pics of the crew at work later; Jen took the photos and will forward to me.
 

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Congrats on getting the engine set in! It looks great, really makes it actually look like a car lol. Where did you pick up the heat shielding? Was it adhesive backed? I like the look of yours on the car compared to some i've seen. I'm getting antsy to get mine here and start assembly, expecting it middle of October.

Roughly what kind of time are you spending on the car to get that far this fast?

You'll be at go kart stage in no time!

Will
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
EDIT: Added pics of panel and brayer.

Thanks Will.

Thermo-tec Cool It adhesive-backed aluminized heat barrier: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-13590

I think the trick to making it look good is cutting it ~3/4" heavy at each edge and folding it over the backside of the panels; roll it as you go with a rolling tool (they are called brayers) to get any bubbles out. I scratch the panels with 150 grit before applying to provide a good anchor profile for the mat. I did the same with my MK II and along with Earl's vents had absolutely no heat issues in the footboxes. I do all engine bay-facing panels (including firewall and footbox outside panels, and the road-facing side of the tranny tunnel. Four units does it all, plus; a bit expensive, but it gave me 9 years of comfortable driving.

I'm retired. Kit was delivered 6/26 by Bob from Stewart Transport. I spend anywhere from an hour to 5 hours a day; I pick a task for the day and stay at it until either its done or it seems like time for a nap. We travel a lot, but when home, I'm at it for a while every day. Also (still) have been held up by backordered parts; PS rack took 2-1/2 months, AC/heater still not here after 3 months. I hope to be complete and ready for bodywork/paint by spring.

October is nigh here! What is your build plan? You are going to love it.

Cheers, Dale
 

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Mustang Convert
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BTW, I am simply putting a button head bolt through the drivers side panel horizontally through the bar supporting the pedal box to suck in the panel far enough to clear the head. Seems to work fine (may be a little cleaner than the BFH :)).

Kevin


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Discussion Starter #12
BTW, I am simply putting a button head bolt through the drivers side panel horizontally through the bar supporting the pedal box to suck in the panel far enough to clear the head. Seems to work fine (may be a little cleaner than the BFH :)).

Kevin


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Hi Kevin, I think I read that on one of your posts and I'll certainly go that route or perhaps install a panel recess insert (I'm becoming fond of sheet metal work since I got a small brake at HF last week). I'm trying to avoid using "persuasion" at all costs;).
 

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This is going to be a sick ride,
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Discussion Starter #15
Pulled Engine

Nothing exciting or cool today, just prep work. Pulled the engine out, installed water temperature and oil pressure sensors for gauges, and switched-out the OEM oil pan for the Champs pan; had to go out and buy a 1/2" NPT tap to chase the threads for the OEM oil temp sender...sure didn't think I'd have to do that on such a high $ pan.

With that out of the way, tomorrow will be devoted to installing clutch, bellhousing, and tranny; we'll see how well You-Tube taught me.

Pic descriptions are imbedded in pictures.
 

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Mustang Convert
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had to go out and buy a 1/2" NPT tap to chase the threads for the OEM oil temp sender...sure didn't think I'd have to do that on such a high $ pan.
Be sure to do the same thing with the threads on the drain plug too. My Coyote Champ pan needed a lot of effort with a pretty big wrench to get in in and out. Ran a tap through it and it was like butter...

Kevin



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Discussion Starter #17
Gee, hadn't thought to take out the drain plug in the Champs pan, just made sure it was tight. Will pull it and chase it tomorrow; I know I have a tap that will fit it.
 

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There are a couple of lessons that i have learned through this build that seem obvious but require conscious thought to stay on top of.

1) open every package the day it arrives to verify you got what you ordered and that its not damaged. Ask me how I know. I didn't open my flywheel from Ford Racing for almost 4 months, opened it and it was dinged in the clutch contact area in shipping. I was lucky enough to get them to exchange it no cost (even shipping). I have also been sent the wrong bolt kits (caught that one immediately).

2) any part that is designed to open, close, turn on, turn off, unscrew, or otherwise exercise it in the way you would use it after installed as soon as you get it (like the drain plug).

The parts sit unused so long in the build process that all this stuff needs to be uncovered early so that you don't get told to take a hike after the grace period with the vendor and you don't forget after the part is installed...

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #19
1. Also have learned this the hard way. My problem is remembering where I put the parts; I don't have room to keep them in their numbered boxes. As I come across bags marked say, #15430, I now write the description on the bag with a Sharpie; I spend much too much time cross-referencing with the inventory list.

2. I'll take that advice from now on; makes a lot of sense.

Thanks
 

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Great build Dale. Definitely following along. Keep the posts coming. I love the look of the coyote engines.

-Steve
 
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