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· \\\M3
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to cut / dogleg the brake pedal. I will be running manual 4w disc brakes. The only pictures I've seen are on the norcal cobras site. Anyone have more showing measurements, exactly what needs to be cut out and re-welded.

Thanks Again,
Brendan
 

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I cut out 1.5 inches between the bolt at the top and the pin that sticks out the side of the lever. I then moved the lever to the lower hole in the pedal box. Make sure you index the pieces before you reweld, spacer is a little longer on one side than the other. Would be a little harder on a completed car, getting it off and getting it back on. Straight forward, easy task during build-up.
 

· \\\M3
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Has anyone dog legged the pedal like on the norcal cobras site?

Thanks

Brendan
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
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FFR1222K
It can be done on a completed car but it is a royal pain. I've changed pedals twice now, once to shorten the arm and then when I went to power brakes to put the old one back in, and lost a fair amount of blood in each change over. Hopefully you have a aftermarket clutch quadrant because it has to come off to access the screw. The OEM one would be tuff to reassemble in that tight area. Cutting an access panel on the foot box would be helpful but I like doing things the hard way.
 

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I am going with the donor power brakes, should I do any cutting? I was thinking about trying the gas pedal also as is and than cutting if needed. Suggestions??? Thanks...Jay
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
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Jay
If you're going with power brakes do not cut your brake pedal. With my GN power setup and a shortend pedal the brakes were on or off the longer pedal gives you more control over your braking. As far as the gas pedal definately go with a good aftermarket setup. I've had mine malfunction twice and plan on scrapping the old mustang setup this winter.
 

· Senior Charter Member
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Brendan, I did the dog-leg mods. Don't cut the pedal shaft all the way through. Just take a pie shaped piece out of it, stick the assy in the vise and pull the shaft until the pieces hit, and weld. It stays straight that way. Bob
 

· Senior Charter Member
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I have cut two for the Goron Levy offered master cylinder and one for the stock one. I folowed their instructions, taperr grinded each piece ready to weld. After that I welded a 1/4" rod (continuous about 3.5") behind the butt weld, sanded off the excess and paint. The rod is on the front side and clears everything. Since building race cars and the importance of the brake pedal, I don't trust butt welding for this application. hope this helps, jack stand
 

· FFCobra Craftsman
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What John said, I did mine like his picture shows, except I think I left my arm full length and only cut the pad off (since I used the finishline pedals) otherwise I would have left it alone.

Lots of leverage.
 
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