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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some help with a Gen 2 coyote Build. I have a 1968 F100 with a Gen 2 and the issue I have is my motor will not turn over or crank. I get power to the starter and it just clicks. I have dropped the starter, bench tested, and had the local Advanced Auto test as well and it is good. I have removed all ground and sanded each down to bare metal and reconnected. I also showing (12.4) at the ground of the fuse box. Any help would be beneficial. I did get it to start during initial setup. And that was with a power wire from ignition to starter. Tried to go back and wire during initial setup but it kept burning up HAAT B 10 Amp mini fuse. Wired up to its current setup and just get a click at the starter.
 

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What changed between the initial setup and now? If the starter is good, then it has to be a bad connection. Trace each component of the setup and check each one. My sense (at least from my experience) is that you'll say something like "I should have seen that..." when you find it. Something had to change and I bet that's where the problem is.
 

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1. I did get it to start during initial setup. And that was with a power wire from ignition to starter.

2. Tried to go back and wire during initial setup but it kept burning up HAAT B 10 Amp mini fuse. Wired up to its current setup and just get a click at the starter.
1. There's nothing wrong with the starter or engine ground. If you get power to the starter and it's relay, it will work.

2. Here is where the problem is. If it's blowing a fuse, the circuit is either overloaded or there's a short. Double check all your connections in this circuit. Make sure all right wires go to all the right connections.
 

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I might have missed it, but has the battery been load tested. A weak battery can show 12 volts on a volt meter, but not be able to turn a starter motor.
Keep us posted, we will get it figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Battery is good, because it is a coyote build with power steering I needed a clutch less pulley. This fixed my cranking issue and nice installed. After turning the vehicle off I could not get it to crank and now I have the issue I currently need to address. However, I cannot test the alternator because I can’t get it to crank. Will keep you posted. Initial question about battery, I have replaced my red top four times due to the issue of draining the battery because of the pulley.
 

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Maybe with the key off, energize the starter solenoid off the hot feed to the starter. Engine should not start, but should turn over. You can remove the solenoid switch wire, while trying this to avoid any back feed to other circuits.
This will eliminate a starter and solenoid issue.
Without going back to read all the replies, Do you have a disconnect switch. If so, they have been known to burn the contacts and make poor or intermittent connections.
You can put a jumper on the lugs to jump it out for a quick test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Appreciate the help, started from the starter and was only getting 10.5 Volts and starting tracing from there back all while cutting heat shrink, electrical tape, and the stock loom. Ended up being power from battery to starter which was burnt out during the fuse situation. Changed power cable and is now fixed. Road test complete and now vehicle starts. Thank you for the assistance. I was pulling my heat out and should have started at the starter, especially when it was right in front of me the entire time.
 

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Great! Electrical problems are such a nightmare to find. But usually a pretty simple fix once you find it.
 
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