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Discussion Starter #381 (Edited)
thanks Gents..

Beck.. from what I recall, moving the cross brace rearwards would extend the longest unsupported section in the chassis as well as foul the output adapter ring for the tail shaft connection.

Best

Chris

UPDATE - Friday:

Box rotated to 30 degrees before a lug on the gearbox casing fouled on one of the braces for the trans tunnel.

Very cleverly, at the early part of my build, I narrowed this part of the chassis to create just a little more interior room for a pair of seats I eventually wasn't able to use... will shave the lug on the gearbox with a grinder (less than 1/4") and should then be able to complete the 90' rotation required.

Had a second look at the bracket at idea of creating a drop section in the cross member. The easier solution would be to make the bracket for the rear gearbox mount removable. Will have a think about this once the box is out.

Best to all...

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #382
Gearbox now out after around 8 hrs work.. ended up cutting the cross braces in the trans tunnel to get enough clearance, this was because I also added structural cages around the footwells that narrowed the front of the trans tunnel to the extent that the box would never rotate through the 90 degrees required.

Will need to make up some sort of removable cross brace as per the previous post (minus 2) in order to be able to repeat this process again. I still have some of the RHS I used to create the drop section in the flooring (100x50x6mm). The local steel shop thankfully has precut 4 and 6mm thick discs that I can use to plug the ends.

Will post again when I have some good news.. and it looks like it was all very easy and took just an hour or two to make everything right again.. :)
 

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Chris,

I would do this on your cross member trans mount. I sent you step files of this. This would use 12mm bolts. There is enough clearance in the counter bores for a 18mm socket. The through holes are 12.1mm giving just a little clearance to slip the bolts through. The slot is 0.1mm bigger than the tongue of the male part to give a slip fit there too. The only thing that needs to be adjusted is the size of the OD that slips inside the pipe. I wasn't sure exactly what the ID of the 4" tube was.
I feel that if you don't do this the cross member strength will be extremely weak. You would assemble this, then weld these male and female plugs into the tubes, once welded you should be able to remove the bolts and the cross member should drop right down.
 

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Discussion Starter #384 (Edited)
hi Jim,

Many thanks again.. :)

Have used a single piece of 12mm x 80 mm flat bar in one piece through the centre section of the cross member (mainly because I really dont have the equipment to be able to machine up the female piece in your model), then welded matching 12mm plate to the stubs of the cross member before capping all of the open faces with 5mm thick steel discs. Also plug welded the 12mm plate to the new centre section tube.

Spent some time fitting the pieces on the chassis rails so I could weld to the stub section of the cross rail on all 4 contact points plus the vertical face of the tube. Will load pics later today.. :)


HT 12mm cap head bolts and nyloc nuts to connect the parts.


Cheers

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #385
Well neither gone, nor forgotten... may have been slightly distracted with another build that has progressed, while I work my way around the Coupe. Have the parts I need to finish the rear suspension tethers and the gearbox mount.. my kids are with me this weekend.. will make a start and update shortly... he says.. !! fingers crossed.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #387
Not sure how it started life.. certainly some of the work would equate to a college build standard.. good design principles, and under resourced execution in some elements. Going through it back to front, stripped down entirely, suspension done, replaced a number of sections and re-did most welds (were done too cold with slag pockets and limited penetration).. have a gearbox and engine ready, new brakes, master cylinders, steering rack rebuild.. wire brush the chassis next, prime with an expoy and refit brake lines... AND............ whenever I can get a second set of hands.. install the salve cylinder and refit the gearbox on the Daytona Coupe..!! (you remember the Daytona Coupe.. !!!! geesh.. making a fist of NOT finishing that one.. :( ).
 

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Discussion Starter #388
Still in Open Wheeler land... which is lighter work and the car is more accessible... good news on the two soft tissue injuries which had sidelined me from the work required on the Coupe for the last year. My shoulder has responded well to the stem cell therapy and I have full movement back with strength slowly returning. The second, the flexor tendon on the R wrist.. (no not a wankers / iso injury as some have suggested) is improving with steroid treatment and some rest.

I have to commission and complete the alignment on the open wheeler, by which time I should be able to manage the gearbox / engine installation... :) be nice to replicate Jim S' dyno run before the end of the year.. :)

Best to all.. :)

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #390
Chris,

Great to see you are still at it. Hope for a speedy recovery so you can get back at it full force.

John
thanks John... I have to brush past the Coupe as I move about the garage.. it always get a sigh and a second look... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #391
Ok.. landmark day after a generous Jim S provided some inspiration via Skype, actually did some work on the Coupe.

Spent the first hour with the vac and the air hose blowing, cleaning and making it safe to work under..shoulder is doing ok.. wrist not so much... but anyhow.. gearbox removed, which was a relatively simple task with the rear cross member now a bolt in section.

Had to operate two trolley jacks with my legs from under the car, slave cylinder removed and a new line made up to eliminate the initial leaking with two unrestrained banjo / press fittings.

Have made up a section to weld onto the retaining pin for the slave cylinder and the other end is now a screw fitting with a (firewall mounted) retaining plate. Not wishing to infuriate the better half I declined to crawl under the car after the shopping trip in the good woolen jumper she recently purchased... hope to get it back in tomorrow..:)
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Discussion Starter #392
Gear box back in with the bolt in rear cross member fitting in nicely.. is possible to remove and install the box with the engine still on its mounts and tilted around 5 degrees rearwards. Unfortunately no help was available so it took about 5 hrs working on the floor, going between the jacks and the cabin to get it done. Ended up installing the shifter as a lever to rotate and get the locating pins into alignment.

Am wondering while I have the opportunity whether to convert back to rubber bushes for the rear diff mount and take out the solid ones I have currently installed.... do the solid mounts cause any issues aside from the pot
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ential to trans
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fer vibrations back through the chassis to the cabin..?

With thanks

Chris
 
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Discussion Starter #393
Back onto the Coupe part time after a couple of weeks on body work for the open wheeler... a 2.5L subaru motor running twin side draft webbers... it cuts the air.. :) hopefully its as nasty on the track.. :).

Running around the car and redoing a number of interior and body parts that may have been a version 2 with mods, to a clean final piece.

Have a rattling from the handbrake assembly when I put it in gear... have adjusted the actuator cable, will check it further in the next few days to see if that fixed it... anyone advise if this is a known issue / fix..?

Once the clean up is complete will fit the engine oil cooler and do some thermal cycling of all of the systems and check the heat exchange / rejection rates and operating temps.

Best to all ..:)

Chris
 
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